I would take jason up on the offer and see how his curve compares to the "default" AEM curve for the toyotas.

How do you create this curve anyway?

In the EMS? it's in the dwell settings. The Scion TC coils are listed. Same style coil as were using. I can send u my cal if you want Tim and you can poke thru it. I just switched over to boost comp mapping too >0psi. I like that much better then cell by cell mapping under boost.

Mitch explained and demonstrated boost comp mapping when I went to the class last year, pretty cool stuff (almost as cool as demonstrating the various anti-lags!) I never got around to doing boost comp fueling in my car as the fuel map is pretty close the way it is. But it does allow for "automatic" fuelling for higher boost, assuming you never tuned for a higher boost, etc.

I know the coil dwell settings are in the appropriate cal files/wizard files, but I want to know how AEM, Jason, or whomever actually creates the files "in a lab".

EDIT: Yah send me your cal file. I know you fixed/completely redid/started from scratch after getting my cal file. I'd like to see what you did for certain things (idle trims, accel and decel fuel trims, etc). :)

Okay, I may have found a source for the actual Toyota connectors, but I am going to make sure that it fits into the coil before I say more.

Problem is that they are like $11 a connector. Pricey, but not horrible for ~$45/set (just for the connectors not including coils) I haven't had any luck with the local junkyard so at that price, it looks good to me, but granted soldering directly to the coil is cheapest.

Once I'm sure that they fit and it's the right part, I'll post back, but is there any interest at that price?

Tom

IMO, $44 is too much to spend on just the connectors. Though good job on finding them.
But if people are afraid of making their own harnesses and willing to spend $40, I'll offer a complete plug-in harness, with soldered and heatshrunk connections for 1.6 apps. It would have pins at each terminal, labeled and color coded, just snap each one in, and would not require any cutting of any original wires so you could go back to stock at any time.

Ben, when should I send you money?!? I would need to send the plugs right?

The longer the dwell, the greater the coil "charge" current and thus the stronger the spark. However, there is a point beyond which current will no longer increase, and the igniter will quicly overheat. Just before this point it the optimal dwell. It varies with voltage, thus the "curve" (vs. voltage). I also test running the coil at high RPM and high voltage at the optimal dwell point and make sure it doesn't overheat after 2 hours or so.

SOL, if you have Toyota COPs and a 1.6, no you wouldn't have to send me any parts. I would need interest from maybe 2-3 people though to order the wire and connectors needed. Once I had the parts, I could get them all done inside of a week.

Well you got one right here! I bet there are alot of other people that would be interested.

Which connectors are you going to be using?

Actually dwell is more the time it takes for the magnetic field to build. Too much dwell (more then needed for core saturation) is not needed and creates excessive heat in the windings and drivers. Not enough dwell and the coil's output is weakened due to the lower field that wasn't fully built. afaik

I'll get that to you tonight. I only used your timing map to test your timing curve. I overlooked where my breakpoints were set vs. yours so I had a hell of alot detonation with it. (see pics. lol) I ended up with a scratch timing map and scratch fuel maps and dialing in things as I learn more and more about the system. Oh, I found the 2-step and used that for anti-lag and added an additional switch inline with the clutch pedal (for enable/disable) so it's clutch activated. I don't even have to let off the throttle to shift! oh yeh! :bigtu: But it's got to be hell on the exhaust valves considering 10psi with -17 timing must be a flame-thrower out the exhaust ports. haha

Insta-spool Antilag NLTS ftw! Shooting flames is cool too:bigtu:

Dammit, I need a turbo ASAP.

Yes... you do! :bigtu:
and COP. :bigtu:

COP's are sitting in the garage, and one in my room FWIW.

Just need to source connectors.

Thanks, however I have (all miatas have?) a clutch switch from the factory that'll work for the 2-step. They actually have two, one for the ignition safety switch and another clutch switch. Right? Yeah, I remember the spring broke and it caused the Link to not work right.

I also used the 2 step (via ignition retard, of course) as a "open loop" antilag, very simple to quickly setup. The TT's don't need antilag so it's just a standard ignition cut rev limiter now...

anyways I now have it turning off at ~24 mph and (unrelated to the clutch switch), which is a few mph slower than the vehicle speed in 1st gear at the 2step cut rpm. It acts as a ghetto traction control (never tried the actual traction control function) assuming I don't spin the tires. I find it easier to feather/slip the clutch at a steady 4900rpm (@ WOT) than at 7400, etc.

I see, thanks.

I'd be interested.

Find out what's offered for quantity. ;)

Will do, but will have to wait as I'll be sending the coils I bought to Jason first so he can test them for the optimal dwell times, etc...