Coolant supply options.
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What kind of thread is on the coolant ports, I am looking for options other then banjo bolts to get coolant in and out of the turbo.
Maybe a 90 degree with a barb, if there is such a thing? I doubt a straight barb will clear the manifold.
Maybe a 90 degree with a barb, if there is such a thing? I doubt a straight barb will clear the manifold.
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So the banjo bolts are M14 x 1.5 pitch.
I was thinking of getting two of these.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me..._Code=ATP-FTG1
and some 90 degree -6an -> 3/8 barbs if such a thing exists or just a -6 to -6 90 degree adapater and a -6an to 3/8 barb.
I was thinking of getting two of these.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me..._Code=ATP-FTG1
and some 90 degree -6an -> 3/8 barbs if such a thing exists or just a -6 to -6 90 degree adapater and a -6an to 3/8 barb.
Last edited by Saml01; 01-27-2008 at 01:23 AM.
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Kenzo, for the outside you are fine, but on the inside the issue is that the water line goes straight into the manifold. Your turbo isn't clocked right in that photo; the oil drain needs to point down, and once you do that you'll see that the inner coolant barb will need to be changed.
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Another consideration is the heat-transfer properties of aluminum vs. brass. I'm pretty sure that brass is a better conductor of heat. The CHRA gets pretty ******* hot... transferring the heat through your barb and into the hose. Typical coolant hoses aren't designed for that kind of heat. I've never heard of hose melting to a barb... if that's how I did it, I'd probably replace those hoses every year or so for preventative maint.
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Another consideration is the heat-transfer properties of aluminum vs. brass. I'm pretty sure that brass is a better conductor of heat. The CHRA gets pretty ******* hot... transferring the heat through your barb and into the hose. Typical coolant hoses aren't designed for that kind of heat. I've never heard of hose melting to a barb... if that's how I did it, I'd probably replace those hoses every year or so for preventative maint.
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