I've been using this knockoff greddy bov (identical to the Greddy type s) for about 6 months and it has been working flawlessly.
A few days ago, during normal light accelleration I heard the fluttering compressor surge sound when I shifted. Complexed, I accellerated harder actually going into boost and let off an the bov did its thing normally. I accellerated lightly, not going into boost - maybe 80 kpa or so, let off the gas and again, compressor surge.
Basically it seems, at low pressures (very light accel) when I lift off the throttle the bov doesn't open now and so I get that fluttering surge, but with any boost, even 110 kpa, the bov vents normally...

So.. has anyone had a similar experience like this? Is the bov tightening up over time, as in its now taking more pressure to open it up? If so, should I try to take it apart and somehow adjust the sensitivity?

 

I have the same thing happen with my Greddy BOV. I was under the impression the "turkey gobble" was normal.

 

Don't you have to periodically lube the metal BOVs?

 

I'm running the Greddy Type RS BOV, there's a common failure in the diaphram. Open it up and check for tears.

There's an issue w/ the knock-off Greddys, some of them wouldn't open up all the way. Check to see if you get full travel w/ the adjustment screw backed off completely, if not you'll have to do some grinding.

 

i guess the only logical solution is to romp on it all the time....

 

+1

Its recommended to lube the piston on my Tial






Its a shame I cant type 1 helpful comment without utilizing the jerkit smiley

 

What kind of lube? Just regular motor oil?

Its okay everyone needs to sometimes

 

My friend has the EXACT some BOV on his e30.

The problem is that the spring inside will twist and shift. It's really a simple fix. Just open the whole thing up and clean out any grime and reset the springs in a manner so they are'nt binding at any point.

Shouldn't take any more than 10 minutes.

 

My buddy used to run one of these on a DSM, and the diaphragm would actually pull out of the retaining groove. After having to pull the valve in a parkiglot to reset the diaphragm about the 4th time he bought a real TiAl. It might be worth it to just go buy a valve that doesn't suck.

Also, the Turbo Dodge nerds generally don't run a BOV of any sort. Compressor surge sounds wicked sweet. My room mate put ~130k on a mildly modded 2.2 turbo LeBaron without a BOV with no issues. When he pulled the turbo apart after the motor finally let go, it had about 1/8" thrust clearance, but it still made good boost, lol.

 

Thanks for suggestions guys. So far, this bov has worked great, and as a true Greddy type S is $150 used to $250 new I think I will look into what is ailing this one before ditching it and getting another..
Honestly, as this only happens at less than 0 psi (vacuum), I really doubt it is hurting the turbo in the way that compressor surge with no bov does, but I want to keep everything operating 100% properly, not let things get all janky on me, so I want to figure this out. I want to bump to 14 psi in the near future..
I'll try messing with the adjustment screw on the top.. I don't know how to check if it is opening fully or not... I mean wouldn't I have to turn the motor on and rev the **** out of it with my eye down in the bov outlet to see if the bov is opening all the way?
If adjusting the screw doesn't help I'll pull it apart and check the spring and diaphram - I searched this issue on google and found that a few guys out there using this bov have had diaphrams tear and one guy even made a replacement out of a bicycle tire tube instead of buying a greddy replacement diaphram..
-Ryan

 

Corky said he's never seen damage to a compressor, when running NO BOV.

 

Lube the piston shaft.

 

It's probably not necessary if the problem developed over time, and the above advice is likely sufficient, but to answer this question you can preform the one spring mod.

Inside the Greddy-S (real and knockoff) are two springs of different thicknesses/rates. You can pull out the smaller spring and reassemble. The one larger spring will hold 15psi without leaking.

EVO Motorsports - Evo VIII Performance Upgrades and Accessories - Type-S Single Spring Mod


edit: Disassembled:

 

My BOV (not a tial knockoff, but whatever) accumulates grime where it seals closed, and will eventually begin to stick closed. It's a really simple fix that just involves cleaning the grime out, but I do have to do it every few months.

 

So did cleaning fix it?

 

I get a lot of compresser surge on my car when i lift from light acceleration. Im gunna try softening the bov adjustment or cleaning it.

I have a sr20 T25 and it costs all of $95 to rebuild so i dont care that much

 

You've been taking Hustler lessons.

 

work and school have had all my spare time lately. When I get around to effing with the bov I'll post up

 

He's also never seen hardware come apart on a fast turbo track car.

 

Does anyone know if the HKS SSQV requires cleaning as well?
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