Not to sound like a whining bitch, but lately **** keeps going wrong and i am forced to make changes in my plans in addition to any delays i have had so far.
As most know, I lost rings in my old motor, bought parts car with "good motor", swapped them...done right? NO!
Plans were to install MS, turbo the 'new' motor, and then build the **** out of other motor while enjoying low boost.
Recent changes in daily transportation made me drive the Miata daily again, which lead me to put some miles on it, which made me realize that this 'new motor' is crap. Im losing coolant and oil now...have not had a chance to do a leak down yet. Car feels good, pulls strong, just losing fluids and no apparent major leaks anywhere.

So, here are my thougts, once i resolve my dd issues...

1. Park car, start building mani/dp/exhaust/IC piping, while im waiting to gather all the parts i need for the build.
2. Do mild build vs. full build.
3. Once parts are gathered, build block, leave head stock.
4. At this time my DIY kit should be complete and tuned for very low boost on the current motor (just to make sure its all good)
5. Swap motors again and reinstall kit and boost away
6. Source 99 head at this time and build it and then install...IOW continue as planned originally

For mild build i plan to have OEM 8.8CR pistons ceramic coated.
I have ETD rods.
And still to decide on what rings to go with.

Again, not looking for people to feel sorry for me, just want to run my new plans by you experienced guys to see if i am OK or have i lost my damn mind.
I welcome any and all suggestions. Current motor is not good, burns around 1/2L oil per 100 miles under spirited (few WOT pulls) driving. Oil consumption is reasonable under mormal conditions.
Thanks,
Dan

 

Mild build with the quickest route to being boosted possible. Do the other crap after you've enjoyed boost. You don't NEED all that other insane build crap, you do NEED boost. So get your **** together. Get the motor built to the point where it is reliable for racing and drive.

 

Dan, I happen to know where you can pick up a good running, pretty complete 99 motor (to include the 99 head & IM) for $700. You could build its block. Just an idea.

 

do that Dan. run the hell out of the 99 motor (boosted) and take your time building the 94 block while it's out. that's what i'm doing, it's just taking a really really long time but i'm enjoying the hell out of the stock 99

 

turbo or off to cr.net for you!

 

Thanks for the input...
Chad-thats kind of the idea behind my reasoning, i was waiting to complete MS to start building my kit. Now that MS is done, i am ready to start fabbing.
So now instead of turboing my car, and then doing an expensive build, ill do the two simultaniously, but not go extreme with the build, not just $$ wise, but im not there yet knowledge wise either...
Ben-thats a decent deal on a 99 motor, but since i already have forged rods and lower CR pistons (compared to 99) and all i need is rings, $700 does not look so good to me.

 

Yeah but you said you're going to pick up a 99 head, which is easily $500-600 with an intake manifold. For a little more, you could get a complete, running motor. Whatev, just tryin to help.

 

Paul-the 94 motor is already out and apart...the 96 motor was supposed to last until the 94 is built, but it gave out prematurely...
i still have to build my kit, which was next in line anyways, im ready now...it will take some time due to the house, so i might as well build the 94 block in the meantime and use the 96 motor as a mockup for the fabrication basically...the 96 will take boost, just not for very long
i just dont like the idea of buying another motor for the meantime...you know...i already have two motors, what if the third breaks, ill kill myself, lol

 

that and he totally disregarded my suggestion. seriously though Dan, the head and intake will run you $500+. I just sold my extra one to artie for $550

 

Ben, how much to ship the whole 99 motor to 07726? How many miles on it? I am already regretting selling my 99 head/intake to artie.

 

nah, i hear ya Ben, i was planning to run a 99-00 head on the built block
well, i wanted to build the **** out of the head...but that was supposed to be my project for end of this year, after i boost the 96 motor...
build a 94 block and 99 head with custom intake manifld and full valvetrain and lots of headwork...

 

Hey Dan, wanna buy a complete 99 bottom?

 

true. now i just gotta get all the gaskets and coolant lines. got the TB and WP already.


dan, i would get that 99 motor and play around with it. thats a good price.

 

i know that $700 is a graet price on a 99 motor, without a doubt
i just dont think i can afford it right now...

hell i can pick it up from Atl for $700, keep the head and sell the block for $300ish
thats not the problem, the head is not on the priorities list...a strong bottom is
the 99 bottom will be strong enough for now, but i have most the parts to rebuild my 94 bottom...do i really need another stock block
appreciate the help and offer, and it is a great deal, no doubt...i just think it makes more sense to run (free) 94 head and forged intenal block at this point

 

Freight and crate to the Carteret, NJ Freight Depot is $190. It's a very, very clean 100k motor. Had maintenece records in the glove box from a very ---- owner. Car was immaculate... Well, except for the fucked up front end.

 

**** i hate shipping charges. can't ya throw it in with those rollbars?

 

we can organize a mass transit for you man...from atl to Pt. Pl.
lol

 

i'll buy the pizza and beer

 

as of now, i think im gonna go with ROSS racing rings
is there anyone here that uses them?
thanks scott

 

I see they offer Top Line, I've used those a few times with success. These were NA motors though, not FI. If it were me, I'd buy a set of forged pistons to go into the new motor. The stock pistons will be more suceptable to breaking a ring landing if you ever have any detonation. If it were me and I had it all apart, that's what I would do. I wouldn' coat them either, but that's just me. I'd rather save that money and apply it toward stronger pistons.