Carnut's build
#1
Carnut's build
Ok, here's a summary of what I've done to the car along with aproximate costs (likely leaving something off the list, but here is the vast majority):
General:
2003 Miata Shinsen with 78k- $4900
60k Service at R-Speed
(T-belt, cam seals, water pump, VVT o-rings, etc)- $400
Robbins Stay Fast top (plus install)- $1000
Hard Dog Ace bar- $350
Katzkins Leather Seat covers- $600
Pioneer In-Dash DVD- $450
Voodoo Shift ****- $40
FM Vmax coil overs & FM Sway bars- $750
Used 6UL wheel set- $700
Stainless Cobalt splash shield/ belly pan- (free from Moss)
Prep for power/ power parts:
FM Stage 2 clutch happy meal (10lb flywheel)- $650
Boss Frog Arms- $250
MS Labs MS3 basic- $900
FIC 900's- $500
Used ETD long tube, 2860RS, 2.5" downpipe- $1500
Rebuild on 2860- $500
AEM dual boost/ WB gauge-$160
GM IAT-$30
Walboro fuel pump- $125
Ebay FMIC kit- $160
Misc silicone tubing/ parts- $150
Greddy FV BOV- $260
Tial F38 WG- $225
TurboSmart Turbo T- $90
FM 2.5- 3" exhaust system- $800
2nd motor to build- $500
Misc oil, coolant, plugs, heat sheild etc- $300
I built it in a boring, logical, systematic way. Started by reading here... all I could find. HOURS of reading. Then read more.
I knew that I wanted a car that would be reliable, maintain AC and PS, and pass emmissions if possible.
I decided what my power goals would be, and built the car from the gound up with the parts I'd eventually need when I got to my power goal. 1st goal was to be sure the car was in top condition prior to boosting- compression test, timing belt, cam seals, water pump, thermostat etc. All regular maintenance items. Then some other (definately optional) things like the top, seat covers, stereo.
Then I looked at the things I'd need at my ultimate power goal (300hp)- replaced the clutch with an FM2 and light weight flywheel. Stiffened the chassis with Boss Frog arms and seam welding. Installed a roll bar.
Next, the WB, IAT and MS3 went in. I got used to the software and attended to any issues. Drove this way for 2 weeks.
Then, the injectors went in. Again, tuning/ adjustments.
After I was happy with the way the car was running and I got my 2860 back everything got bolted up... manifold, turbo, downpipe, FM exhaust, WG, BOV, FMIC. Used a lot of heat protection goodies, paid attention to how thing were routed. Pulled the injector fuse and primed the turbo. Then drove very conservetively while VEAL did it's thing. Last night I went to the dyno to set the boost level (currently 11psi for 230hp). The map was super rich but after 6 runs VEAL pulled enough fuel for closer to target AFR readings.
At the end of the day, the car is very comfortable, has a good sounding stereo and cold A/C. Oh, it's also faster currently than my buddy's Factory Five Cobra (with a 97 Mustang Cobra engine). Total cost: $16,290 including the car (ouch?). Cost to upgrade- $11,390 but if you remove the top/ stereo, seats, spare engine it would have been $8840. Still WAY more than I thought this would cost.
For me, building is as much fun as having. Saturday I'm doing a mountain drive with a local Porsche club... mostly all Boxsters. I can't wait to see the look on the faces of those guys who will see a $5,000 Miata (in their mind) crush their $20k+ Porsches.
What's next?
Boss Frog Ribs (door bars) b/c stiff is awesome.
Focal component speakers- the in-dash is awesome- I plug the I Phone into it (in glove box) and can control apps directly on the radio. Great for things like Escort Live...
Building the spare motor- likely just the bottom end.
That's it!
Bringing the car home 1st night...
Parts:
Arms:
General:
2003 Miata Shinsen with 78k- $4900
60k Service at R-Speed
(T-belt, cam seals, water pump, VVT o-rings, etc)- $400
Robbins Stay Fast top (plus install)- $1000
Hard Dog Ace bar- $350
Katzkins Leather Seat covers- $600
Pioneer In-Dash DVD- $450
Voodoo Shift ****- $40
FM Vmax coil overs & FM Sway bars- $750
Used 6UL wheel set- $700
Stainless Cobalt splash shield/ belly pan- (free from Moss)
Prep for power/ power parts:
FM Stage 2 clutch happy meal (10lb flywheel)- $650
Boss Frog Arms- $250
MS Labs MS3 basic- $900
FIC 900's- $500
Used ETD long tube, 2860RS, 2.5" downpipe- $1500
Rebuild on 2860- $500
AEM dual boost/ WB gauge-$160
GM IAT-$30
Walboro fuel pump- $125
Ebay FMIC kit- $160
Misc silicone tubing/ parts- $150
Greddy FV BOV- $260
Tial F38 WG- $225
TurboSmart Turbo T- $90
FM 2.5- 3" exhaust system- $800
2nd motor to build- $500
Misc oil, coolant, plugs, heat sheild etc- $300
I built it in a boring, logical, systematic way. Started by reading here... all I could find. HOURS of reading. Then read more.
I knew that I wanted a car that would be reliable, maintain AC and PS, and pass emmissions if possible.
I decided what my power goals would be, and built the car from the gound up with the parts I'd eventually need when I got to my power goal. 1st goal was to be sure the car was in top condition prior to boosting- compression test, timing belt, cam seals, water pump, thermostat etc. All regular maintenance items. Then some other (definately optional) things like the top, seat covers, stereo.
Then I looked at the things I'd need at my ultimate power goal (300hp)- replaced the clutch with an FM2 and light weight flywheel. Stiffened the chassis with Boss Frog arms and seam welding. Installed a roll bar.
Next, the WB, IAT and MS3 went in. I got used to the software and attended to any issues. Drove this way for 2 weeks.
Then, the injectors went in. Again, tuning/ adjustments.
After I was happy with the way the car was running and I got my 2860 back everything got bolted up... manifold, turbo, downpipe, FM exhaust, WG, BOV, FMIC. Used a lot of heat protection goodies, paid attention to how thing were routed. Pulled the injector fuse and primed the turbo. Then drove very conservetively while VEAL did it's thing. Last night I went to the dyno to set the boost level (currently 11psi for 230hp). The map was super rich but after 6 runs VEAL pulled enough fuel for closer to target AFR readings.
At the end of the day, the car is very comfortable, has a good sounding stereo and cold A/C. Oh, it's also faster currently than my buddy's Factory Five Cobra (with a 97 Mustang Cobra engine). Total cost: $16,290 including the car (ouch?). Cost to upgrade- $11,390 but if you remove the top/ stereo, seats, spare engine it would have been $8840. Still WAY more than I thought this would cost.
For me, building is as much fun as having. Saturday I'm doing a mountain drive with a local Porsche club... mostly all Boxsters. I can't wait to see the look on the faces of those guys who will see a $5,000 Miata (in their mind) crush their $20k+ Porsches.
What's next?
Boss Frog Ribs (door bars) b/c stiff is awesome.
Focal component speakers- the in-dash is awesome- I plug the I Phone into it (in glove box) and can control apps directly on the radio. Great for things like Escort Live...
Building the spare motor- likely just the bottom end.
That's it!
Bringing the car home 1st night...
Parts:
Arms:
#2
I built it in a boring, logical, systematic way. Started by reading here... all I could find. HOURS of reading. Then read more.
#6
Total cost: $16,290 including the car (ouch?). Cost to upgrade- $11,390 but if you remove the top/ stereo, seats, spare engine it would have been $8840. Still WAY more than I thought this would cost.
For me, building is as much fun as having. Saturday I'm doing a mountain drive with a local Porsche club... mostly all Boxsters. I can't wait to see the look on the faces of those guys who will see a $5,000 Miata (in their mind) crush their $20k+ Porsches.
For me, building is as much fun as having. Saturday I'm doing a mountain drive with a local Porsche club... mostly all Boxsters. I can't wait to see the look on the faces of those guys who will see a $5,000 Miata (in their mind) crush their $20k+ Porsches.
#7
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,996
Total Cats: 1,027
From: Lake Forest, CA
Awesome job man, props given. Build looks great. I too am surprised by the cost. Makes me feel better about going the route I did, however, you are far better prepared and you actually know your car. I don't.
Is it just me or does it look kinda funny with all the big tupperware parts but no lip on the front? Is that normal for the shinsen?
Is it just me or does it look kinda funny with all the big tupperware parts but no lip on the front? Is that normal for the shinsen?
#8
Think it's a "normal" Shinsen. I'd like a front lip on it. The side skirts would likely be removed but the left front fender was replaced and they did not paint under the skirt.
The drive yesterday was awesome- 200 miles. My car held its own against some very fast cars- a 911 Turbo, Gt3 (both clearly faster) few Boxster S and Cayman S's... My car seemed very even with those guys and then a handful of normal Boxsters which had nothing for my car.
happy to say that after 200 miles of fairly hard driving the car was no worse or wear and ran great the whole time.
The drive yesterday was awesome- 200 miles. My car held its own against some very fast cars- a 911 Turbo, Gt3 (both clearly faster) few Boxster S and Cayman S's... My car seemed very even with those guys and then a handful of normal Boxsters which had nothing for my car.
happy to say that after 200 miles of fairly hard driving the car was no worse or wear and ran great the whole time.
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