Can someone help me with building my first diy turbo?
#1
Can someone help me with building my first diy turbo?
So I'm wanting to build a solid, reliable 200whp-225whp turbo system for my 92 1.6 long nose and want to do it right the first time. I know the first thing ro before even touching the engine is beef up my drivetrain which is already in the works. Can any of y'all help me on this one? Thanks!
#3
Okay, thanks, I've actually talked with Lars already and that kit seems like my best option. Now I've already got a perfectly working 1.6 engine, would it make any sense to swap a 1.8?
EDIT: I think at this point I'm gonna go with the TDR Rotrex kit since it's so complete and dyno readings are at 215whp
EDIT: I think at this point I'm gonna go with the TDR Rotrex kit since it's so complete and dyno readings are at 215whp
Last edited by LittleCarBigFun; 05-29-2017 at 07:06 PM. Reason: Might just sc instead
#4
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Okay, thanks, I've actually talked with Lars already and that kit seems like my best option. Now I've already got a perfectly working 1.6 engine, would it make any sense to swap a 1.8?
EDIT: I think at this point I'm gonna go with the TDR Rotrex kit since it's so complete and dyno readings are at 215whp
EDIT: I think at this point I'm gonna go with the TDR Rotrex kit since it's so complete and dyno readings are at 215whp
#8
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1. Standalone ECU and wideband. Budget $800-$2000. I highly suggest a MS3 of some sort with an Innovative MXT-L or AEM UEGO. Hydra, Aem, Haltech, Adaptronic also make stand alones, but there is less forum support. Install this on the stock motor and learn how to tune.
2. Buy larger injectors and install them. Retune. Budget $300-$1000. You want to get get EV14 injectors. I suggest FlowForce injectors as they are the best bang for the buck EV14's. Anything also from Injector Dynamics is good. Generally higher hp guys on here run ID1000's. You don't want older RX8 or RX7 or etc... injectors. Most RX8 injectors on the market now are fake chines knockoffs and who knows how well they flow, and RX7 injectors have shitty control at low pulse widths so idle control can be hard to get good.
3. Stronger clutch. SuperMiata, FM, ACT are the only brands you want to be looking at. Budget $300-$1000 for this. This is another place not to try to cheap out on due to how much of a pita it is to change a clutch when your shitty ebay one fails.
4. Figure out your IC setup and BOV. Budget between $350-$1000 for this. Generally run 2.5" on the cold side, and 2" on the hot side.
5. Buy quality turbo hardware. TSE/MKTurbo/FM/Artech/BellTuning/Fab9 is where you should be buying from. Budget $1500-$5000 for all this. Install all this and tune your fuel and spark table in boost.
6. Enjoy the stock motor and be between 220whp-250whp. At this point you will have a reliable setup that you should not have to do any major work to as far as the turbo setup goes. Now you will start spending money on engine cooling, and suspension and such to catch up to your new found horse power.
#9
The right way is following 6 steps.
1. Standalone ECU and wideband. Budget $800-$2000. I highly suggest a MS3 of some sort with an Innovative MXT-L or AEM UEGO. Hydra, Aem, Haltech, Adaptronic also make stand alones, but there is less forum support. Install this on the stock motor and learn how to tune.
2. Buy larger injectors and install them. Retune. Budget $300-$1000. You want to get get EV14 injectors. I suggest FlowForce injectors as they are the best bang for the buck EV14's. Anything also from Injector Dynamics is good. Generally higher hp guys on here run ID1000's. You don't want older RX8 or RX7 or etc... injectors. Most RX8 injectors on the market now are fake chines knockoffs and who knows how well they flow, and RX7 injectors have shitty control at low pulse widths so idle control can be hard to get good.
3. Stronger clutch. SuperMiata, FM, ACT are the only brands you want to be looking at. Budget $300-$1000 for this. This is another place not to try to cheap out on due to how much of a pita it is to change a clutch when your shitty ebay one fails.
4. Figure out your IC setup and BOV. Budget between $350-$1000 for this. Generally run 2.5" on the cold side, and 2" on the hot side.
5. Buy quality turbo hardware. TSE/MKTurbo/FM/Artech/BellTuning/Fab9 is where you should be buying from. Budget $1500-$5000 for all this. Install all this and tune your fuel and spark table in boost.
6. Enjoy the stock motor and be between 220whp-250whp. At this point you will have a reliable setup that you should not have to do any major work to as far as the turbo setup goes. Now you will start spending money on engine cooling, and suspension and such to catch up to your new found horse power.
1. Standalone ECU and wideband. Budget $800-$2000. I highly suggest a MS3 of some sort with an Innovative MXT-L or AEM UEGO. Hydra, Aem, Haltech, Adaptronic also make stand alones, but there is less forum support. Install this on the stock motor and learn how to tune.
2. Buy larger injectors and install them. Retune. Budget $300-$1000. You want to get get EV14 injectors. I suggest FlowForce injectors as they are the best bang for the buck EV14's. Anything also from Injector Dynamics is good. Generally higher hp guys on here run ID1000's. You don't want older RX8 or RX7 or etc... injectors. Most RX8 injectors on the market now are fake chines knockoffs and who knows how well they flow, and RX7 injectors have shitty control at low pulse widths so idle control can be hard to get good.
3. Stronger clutch. SuperMiata, FM, ACT are the only brands you want to be looking at. Budget $300-$1000 for this. This is another place not to try to cheap out on due to how much of a pita it is to change a clutch when your shitty ebay one fails.
4. Figure out your IC setup and BOV. Budget between $350-$1000 for this. Generally run 2.5" on the cold side, and 2" on the hot side.
5. Buy quality turbo hardware. TSE/MKTurbo/FM/Artech/BellTuning/Fab9 is where you should be buying from. Budget $1500-$5000 for all this. Install all this and tune your fuel and spark table in boost.
6. Enjoy the stock motor and be between 220whp-250whp. At this point you will have a reliable setup that you should not have to do any major work to as far as the turbo setup goes. Now you will start spending money on engine cooling, and suspension and such to catch up to your new found horse power.
#12
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Lars is steering you right on every point, though I don't recall whether he addressed your 1.6 vs 1.8 question.
Last edited by DNMakinson; 05-29-2017 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Stupid autocorrects.
#17
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You should get a megasquirt, wideband, and swap in the 1.8 to start with. You'll already have more power and you'll definitely enjoy it. Then swap in injectors.
Then get the MKTurbo setup.
If you're planning an engine build, you can always do that on the 1.8 block while you wait to install it and learn to tune MS while running the 1.6 N/A. You'll have to change the tune with the 1.8 though.
The engine build isn't necessary for the MKTurbo setup. Lars designed it to work reliably with the constraints of the stock block in mind.
Oh also...
Welcome to the madhouse.
#18
The issue with this is that you have to change quite a lot of things when you do the swap (manifold etc.)
You should get a megasquirt, wideband, and swap in the 1.8 to start with. You'll already have more power and you'll definitely enjoy it. Then swap in injectors.
Then get the MKTurbo setup.
If you're planning an engine build, you can always do that on the 1.8 block while you wait to install it and learn to tune MS while running the 1.6 N/A. You'll have to change the tune with the 1.8 though.
The engine build isn't necessary for the MKTurbo setup. Lars designed it to work reliably with the constraints of the stock block in mind.
Oh also...
Welcome to the madhouse.
You should get a megasquirt, wideband, and swap in the 1.8 to start with. You'll already have more power and you'll definitely enjoy it. Then swap in injectors.
Then get the MKTurbo setup.
If you're planning an engine build, you can always do that on the 1.8 block while you wait to install it and learn to tune MS while running the 1.6 N/A. You'll have to change the tune with the 1.8 though.
The engine build isn't necessary for the MKTurbo setup. Lars designed it to work reliably with the constraints of the stock block in mind.
Oh also...
Welcome to the madhouse.
#19
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If you are not building a motor, I would skip the 6 speed. You can buy a good number of 5 speeds if you do blow yours up for what a 6 speed costs. Also most people prefer the feel of the 5 speed over the 6 speed.