I dont see much wrong with what he's doing. MS2 is fine, the turbo is okay(its an sr20 t25 remade by ISR, basically the same thing). The important part is to have a good ECU, good injectors, and to upgrade from there. The kraken kit is great and has treated me well without any issues.

Definitely no reason to run a BOV. I stopped running my CX racing one that came with the IC kit because it's junk plastic and it leaked. No BOV is perfectly save as others have said and the sounds are pretty sweet i suppose.

1.6 diff and axles never blew up at 10PSI on the same turbo, and they never blew up at 8psi on a slightly larger turbo. I'm now swapped and they sit in my garage attic.

My 1.6 clutch held around 7PSI out of the same t25 before it gave up.. After it gave up i was lucky if it would hold 5psi or so and basically had to baby it until i replaced it. Still was daily drivable until it was replaced. i DEFINITELY recommend just getting more clutch than you ever think you would need. 150 sounds great when you have a stock miata, once its boosted you will 100% want more power and will want a strong clutch. I went with the supermiata /949 4 puck sport sprung clutch for a 1.6 with an ebay 10lb flywheel. A bit annoying to drive on the streets but holds all the power you will realistically want.

Unless you're in the 1.6 differential version of PETA, there's no reason not to run the 1.6, as long as you're ok towing home if/when it blows, and spending enough money for a 1.8 swap as soon as that happens.

Also, on the MS2 vs. MS3 topic:

Sure, using an MS3 to it's max potential vs. a MS2, the MS3 will be safer. Proper CL boost control and knock control will me safer on the engine.

However, I ran a MSPNP2 then upgraded to an MS3 basic. I made no extra power. I didn't use knock control before, and I'm not currently. The MS2 did run open loop idle, and aside from it dipping a bit low coming to a stop, never let me down. MS3 was no improvement until I enabled CL idle. I'm naturally aspirated currently so boost control makes no difference. Higher resolution fuel/ignition tables honestly won't make any difference.

That being said, I'm very glad I made the switch to MS3, as I'm now on CL idle with no droop, and just bought a VVT head that won't need any additional upgrades to utilize.

Thanks for posting the first encouraging comment in my thread lol. Most of the other gripes can be answered by looking at my OP again as I have edited it to remove the ebay BOV and boost gauge. I am sticking with the ebay IC though. And a 1.8 diff is the next logical step but I will drive the 1.6 at 150 until I find one. For now I am just looking for a good clutch.

Thats good to hear. I am definitely buying a stronger clutch but I may wait to install it until after I have the car running on a little boost. Looking at ACT HD clutch kit or ACT stage 1 full face.

dont forget you want a 1.8L flywheel and clutch. its bigger diameter and better than 1.6L clutches.

you can buy a 1.8L flywheel cheap, then slap on what ever 1.8L clutch you want. i recommend FM level 1. very good clutch.

if you need a 1.8L stock flywheel, i have one, $20 + shipping.

HAI GUYTHS I VANA SAVE MONEY TO SPEND IT TWICE AND END UP WITH MEDIOCRITY.

AMIDOINITRITE?

hahaha :likecat:
why even run a clutch? just weld crank to trans input shaft and jump start+powershift.

its cheaper

jesus, now i have to buy a welder?

:laugh:

1.8 clutch must have 1.8 flywheel... $20 is a deal if you are just wanting the cheapest thing to get rolling.

Lil update.

Tuning is a blast. I'm learning so much. Anyone looking for MS/TS info check out this youtube lecture:
Really cool stuff. Anyway, I have a decent fuel map right now (albeit a bit rich overall to stay on the safe side). Haven't touched the base spark map. I also got my idle on closed loop and dialed in to a comfy 870 RPM, as well as working on AE a bit. The throttle isn't quite as responsive as I'd like it to be (yet) but it only hesitates at low rpm blips, like 2500 or lower. Which is fine for now since my downshifting that needs quick response would be over 3k.

Ran into my first weird issue. I drove the car around for about 30 minutes running autotune on my fuel map and getting a data log. No issues during the drive. But when I pulled into a parking lot and sat for a minute to look at the laptop, I noticed my water temp was high. The gauge on the dash was at 1 oclock (never has moved past noon) and tunerstudio read 220°F. I drove it back to my house (3 mins from the lot) and after I had been moving for a bit the temps dropped right back down. Fan issue? thats what I thought. But I popped the hood and saw the main fan was indeed running. This issue has subsided a bit since I got the idle fixed, but I'm wondering if a parallel fan wiring mod will be necessary in the future...


Turbo got delivered. I'm sorting out fittings and such right now. The Kraken kit came with the AN fittings and banjo bolts for oil and water, but no oil drain flange so that is in the mail. Some gaskets and odds and ends were also ordered this week. I also ordered the 27.5x5.5x2.5 ebay intercooler everyone loves (https://www.ebay.com/itm/180843152359) which was $55. The plan as of now is to mount the turbo and intercooler and figure out intake piping from there. I'm ready to get creative with it but I smell a AC/PS delete in my future.... post good links if you have them, i'll be searching around in the meantime.

Bought the flywheel from borka, thanks brother. Now to restart the search for a clutch kit; 1.8l this time.

And by the way, total amount spent at this point is right around $2500, but I still have to get the clutch and other odds and ends as I need them. That hurts, but this is really coming together and I'm super excited.

"top tier eBay", I about died lol.

And wtf do people still think you need a boost gauge, for anything? Especially when you just bought a fuking standalone. I will never understand.

boost gauge = street cred, dont they teach you this shit in school?

I personally recommend FM level 1 clutch, im on my second one and its awesome. held my 309hp 273tq just fine, with stock like pedal feel and smooth engagement.

$2500 is nothing, it takes $4k for a good mid range solid turbo setup.

the FM is on my list. However, is it the same clutch plate they use in the happy meal kit? because I just saw a thread with someones clutch disc cracking along the spring housing on the hub. the posters were saying it is not unheard of, not sure how I feel about that...

happy meal is the same clutch kit + flywheel.

shit happens with any product. I doubt it is a common accurance.

Get what ever clutch tickles your pickle. Just stick to brand names and stay away from Ebay xtd and what not.

I use mine for data logging/tuning so I can hold pressures I prefer it to watching the read out on the laptop screen. Otherwise it is superfluous, yeah.

Though I can't discredit anyone who has one cause they like it (I bought a nice smooth VDO one thay is just pretty to watch).

Power steering and AC delete went swimmingly this weekend. Steering feels very tight and there is plenty of feedback from the road. Most importantly, however, there is now a shit ton of room on the hot side for the turbo and intercooler piping. Right now the intercooler (ebay 27x5.5x2.5) is mounted in the bumper but not connected to anything. I have a much better idea of what type of pipes I want to run though. Silicone intakes seems to be a popular choice for piping? I have been looking through intercooler threads and have a general idea of the parts I need but this is definitely the most "freeform" part of the build so far. I feel like I can't really picture all of the pipes lining up and need to have them in my hands to play with. Whatever, I am fine with having extra parts/ needing to order more as long as it ends up nice. Will post pics once I get those in.

I buy almost all my couplers from speed daddy on ebay. Almost all the cheap couplers are going to come from the same few chinese factories.

Aluminum pipe is aluminum pipe if you are going to be cutting it.