Boost PSI hoses
#1
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Setting up an EBC and running lines. Noticed a couple hoses were going to the wrong place. Can anyone give me some advice on the matter.
"Correct" way to run lines.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/diy-turbo-discussion-14/32463-boost-psi-hoses-evc_5correct-1.jpg?dateline=1327426414)
The way it is setup now. notice the red boost line.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/diy-turbo-discussion-14/32464-boost-psi-hoses-evc_5wrong.jpg?dateline=1327426414)
How bad is this. FWIW it ran fine and dyno'd properly making good power.
Thank you for your advice.
"Correct" way to run lines.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/diy-turbo-discussion-14/32463-boost-psi-hoses-evc_5correct-1.jpg?dateline=1327426414)
The way it is setup now. notice the red boost line.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/diy-turbo-discussion-14/32464-boost-psi-hoses-evc_5wrong.jpg?dateline=1327426414)
How bad is this. FWIW it ran fine and dyno'd properly making good power.
Thank you for your advice.
#2
Boost Pope
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This is not necessarily "wrong", and in fact, this method is discussed by Corky in Maximum Boost.
Essentially, the configuration you have is going to cause the wastegate to be fully closed all the time. With the port placed just before the throttle plate, the wastegate valve would be open any time operating conditions are just right to allow the turbo enough exhaust flow to be making a significant quantity of boost and yet the throttle plate is sufficiently closed to cause MAP to be below the boost target. This sort of over-works the turbo, and produces a lot of heat.
This operating condition is not particularly common in normal driving. You'd have to be doing something like climbing a hill under part-throttle, giving the engine enough load to spin up the turbo and make boost, and then modulating it with the throttle.
If it concerns you, feel free to move the hose to a point in the system between the intercooler and the throttle body.
Essentially, the configuration you have is going to cause the wastegate to be fully closed all the time. With the port placed just before the throttle plate, the wastegate valve would be open any time operating conditions are just right to allow the turbo enough exhaust flow to be making a significant quantity of boost and yet the throttle plate is sufficiently closed to cause MAP to be below the boost target. This sort of over-works the turbo, and produces a lot of heat.
This operating condition is not particularly common in normal driving. You'd have to be doing something like climbing a hill under part-throttle, giving the engine enough load to spin up the turbo and make boost, and then modulating it with the throttle.
If it concerns you, feel free to move the hose to a point in the system between the intercooler and the throttle body.
#3
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What is this "maximum boost" you speak of?
I understand what the setup is doing right now. I guess my question is, if I leave it, how bad is it on the system components? Would you recomend changing it to the "correct" way. FWIW this is a weekend warrior car. Not daily driven. And does see some track time.
I understand what the setup is doing right now. I guess my question is, if I leave it, how bad is it on the system components? Would you recomend changing it to the "correct" way. FWIW this is a weekend warrior car. Not daily driven. And does see some track time.
#5
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What is this "maximum boost" you speak of?
I understand what the setup is doing right now. I guess my question is, if I leave it, how bad is it on the system components? Would you recomend changing it to the "correct" way. FWIW this is a weekend warrior car. Not daily driven. And does see some track time.
I understand what the setup is doing right now. I guess my question is, if I leave it, how bad is it on the system components? Would you recomend changing it to the "correct" way. FWIW this is a weekend warrior car. Not daily driven. And does see some track time.
#8
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fixed.
you need a bit of a brain when reading it. But there are a lot of pictures.
For example, suppose a turbo has a compressor discharge temperature of 200°F above atmospheric temperature, that is, about 740°F absolute on an 80°F day. (Zero degrees absolute is about 460°F; add 80°F to get 540°F; 200°F above that temperature is, therefore, 740°F absolute.) If we insert a 60% efficient intercooler into the system, we would remove 0,6 x200°F = 120°F from the system, leaving a gain of just 80°F rather than 200°F or an absolute of 540°+80° = 620°.
Last edited by Braineack; 01-24-2012 at 02:25 PM.
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