After years of lurking, "Super 60" Build thread
02-08-2009 | 09:40 PM
#1
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 31
Total Cats: 0
From: Northern VA
After years of lurking, "Super 60" Build thread
I've Been compiling parts and knowledge for several years and I'm finally driving my project around working on boost control and fueling.
List of parts:
[Electronics]
AEM EMS
AEM TwinFire
AEM Gauge Type UEGO
300c COP (sequential)
GM 3 bar MAP sensor
GM boost solenoid
RX7 460cc injectors
Dual feed fuel rail
[Hardware]
Fidanza Flywheel (12lb)
F1 Stage 3 clutch & pressure plate (3 puck)
ARP Head studs
SuperTech valves, perches, springs
BEGI exhaust manifold (coated, non-egr, external wastegate)
XS Power external wastegate (dual port)
T3/TO4E Turbo .63 compressor/.50 exhaust
Fly'n Miata oil thermostat
Fly'n Miata BOV
Long Oil Cooler (11x6)
eBay Intercooler (32"x14"x3")
3" exhaust (from turbo and includes a cat.)
1.5" wastegate dump (completely separate from exhaust)
[Deviations from stock (besides turbo)]
2001 MBSP
2001 Oil Pan
Coolant reroute
Larger injectors
AEM CDI
AEM EMS
AEM UEGO
Oil Cooler
Sequential Ignition with Coil On Plug
MAF to MAP conversion
Head ported, polished (by me, nothing fancy very conservative)
Custom 3" exhaust (biggest PITA of the project)
Nothing is much different from what I've seen here before except maybe the coolant reroute. I tapped the block and ran that to the heater core. From the core it runs to the back of the head (behind the thermostat so it's a proper bypass). The main return goes from the back of the head to the radiator (using all re-used miata radiator hose, including the hard pipe that was on the cold side originally).
Some pictures attached
List of parts:
[Electronics]
AEM EMS
AEM TwinFire
AEM Gauge Type UEGO
300c COP (sequential)
GM 3 bar MAP sensor
GM boost solenoid
RX7 460cc injectors
Dual feed fuel rail
[Hardware]
Fidanza Flywheel (12lb)
F1 Stage 3 clutch & pressure plate (3 puck)
ARP Head studs
SuperTech valves, perches, springs
BEGI exhaust manifold (coated, non-egr, external wastegate)
XS Power external wastegate (dual port)
T3/TO4E Turbo .63 compressor/.50 exhaust
Fly'n Miata oil thermostat
Fly'n Miata BOV
Long Oil Cooler (11x6)
eBay Intercooler (32"x14"x3")
3" exhaust (from turbo and includes a cat.)
1.5" wastegate dump (completely separate from exhaust)
[Deviations from stock (besides turbo)]
2001 MBSP
2001 Oil Pan
Coolant reroute
Larger injectors
AEM CDI
AEM EMS
AEM UEGO
Oil Cooler
Sequential Ignition with Coil On Plug
MAF to MAP conversion
Head ported, polished (by me, nothing fancy very conservative)
Custom 3" exhaust (biggest PITA of the project)
Nothing is much different from what I've seen here before except maybe the coolant reroute. I tapped the block and ran that to the heater core. From the core it runs to the back of the head (behind the thermostat so it's a proper bypass). The main return goes from the back of the head to the radiator (using all re-used miata radiator hose, including the hard pipe that was on the cold side originally).
Some pictures attached
Last edited by wroark; 02-09-2009 at 09:46 AM. Reason: Forgot a couple pieces of hardware
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02-08-2009 | 10:23 PM
#5
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 31
Total Cats: 0
From: Northern VA
Mazda/Nissan:
In Northern VA we get some nasty humidity but the intercooler just wouldn't play nice with the A/C condensor so it got the timeout.
Ya know, I ordered a boost-friendly PCV but I can't seem to find it now. I'll be digging through parts boxes for a week or two then ordering one.
PatsMX5:
Thankya sir!
I kept all the receipts for the parts and I'll have to dig them up for details but generally the reroute is:
1.8 thermostat housing is now on water pump and receives water from the radiator.
All of the little lines are removed (throttle warmer, oil cooler).
Tapped the water jacket at the bottom of cylinder #4 (it's plugged from the factory).
Ran that via braided -6AN line to the heater core.
Used JR thermostat spacer (as mentioned in many re-routes) to get enough meat to mount my temp sender and return line bung from the heater core, topped that with a 1.6 thermostat housing.
The 1.6 housing points to the right of the engine and a mis-mash of miata hoses carry the fluid to the radiator.
I THINK this solves most issues that most people have with rerouting the coolant:
No mixing of cooled and heated fluid before it enters the block.
The cooled fluid enters the front of the engine and exits the rear (either via the thermostat when open or/and via the lower block fitting on #4 cylinder where it goes through the heater core and dumps into the return line after the thermostat at the JR spacer)
The coolant has a bypass around the thermostat that's reasonably restricted since the fitting/adapter from the block is pretty small (I know reasonable and pretty small aren't very scientific, I'll look up the sizes in a bit). The idea being to allow even flow that disperses the heat around the block while warming up without preventing a complete warmup.
The heater generates heat as fast as the engine can make it.
The block temps are fairly constant and even since the thermostat doesn't provide the only path of substantive cooling circulation. Today was near 65 and I was hitting 15lbs of boost regularly and the temps didn't change at all from several days ago when it was 20 outside.
I have a large pile of as-yet unorganized receipts to go through to find the block fitting size and where I bought the fitting from. I'll start digging if anyone is interested.
What sorta pictures would be most helpful ?
In Northern VA we get some nasty humidity but the intercooler just wouldn't play nice with the A/C condensor so it got the timeout.
Ya know, I ordered a boost-friendly PCV but I can't seem to find it now. I'll be digging through parts boxes for a week or two then ordering one.
PatsMX5:
Thankya sir!
I kept all the receipts for the parts and I'll have to dig them up for details but generally the reroute is:
1.8 thermostat housing is now on water pump and receives water from the radiator.
All of the little lines are removed (throttle warmer, oil cooler).
Tapped the water jacket at the bottom of cylinder #4 (it's plugged from the factory).
Ran that via braided -6AN line to the heater core.
Used JR thermostat spacer (as mentioned in many re-routes) to get enough meat to mount my temp sender and return line bung from the heater core, topped that with a 1.6 thermostat housing.
The 1.6 housing points to the right of the engine and a mis-mash of miata hoses carry the fluid to the radiator.
I THINK this solves most issues that most people have with rerouting the coolant:
No mixing of cooled and heated fluid before it enters the block.
The cooled fluid enters the front of the engine and exits the rear (either via the thermostat when open or/and via the lower block fitting on #4 cylinder where it goes through the heater core and dumps into the return line after the thermostat at the JR spacer)
The coolant has a bypass around the thermostat that's reasonably restricted since the fitting/adapter from the block is pretty small (I know reasonable and pretty small aren't very scientific, I'll look up the sizes in a bit). The idea being to allow even flow that disperses the heat around the block while warming up without preventing a complete warmup.
The heater generates heat as fast as the engine can make it.
The block temps are fairly constant and even since the thermostat doesn't provide the only path of substantive cooling circulation. Today was near 65 and I was hitting 15lbs of boost regularly and the temps didn't change at all from several days ago when it was 20 outside.
I have a large pile of as-yet unorganized receipts to go through to find the block fitting size and where I bought the fitting from. I'll start digging if anyone is interested.
What sorta pictures would be most helpful ?
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02-08-2009 | 10:58 PM
#6
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iTrader: (22)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,224
Total Cats: 3
From: Sunny Spanish speaking Non US Caribbean
PatsMX5:
Thankya sir!
I kept all the receipts for the parts and I'll have to dig them up for details but generally the reroute is:
1.8 thermostat housing is now on water pump and receives water from the radiator.
All of the little lines are removed (throttle warmer, oil cooler).
Tapped the water jacket at the bottom of cylinder #4 (it's plugged from the factory).
Ran that via braided -6AN line to the heater core.
Used JR thermostat spacer (as mentioned in many re-routes) to get enough meat to mount my temp sender and return line bung from the heater core, topped that with a 1.6 thermostat housing.
The 1.6 housing points to the right of the engine and a mis-mash of miata hoses carry the fluid to the radiator.
I THINK this solves most issues that most people have with rerouting the coolant:
No mixing of cooled and heated fluid before it enters the block.
The cooled fluid enters the front of the engine and exits the rear (either via the thermostat when open or/and via the lower block fitting on #4 cylinder where it goes through the heater core and dumps into the return line after the thermostat at the JR spacer)
The coolant has a bypass around the thermostat that's reasonably restricted since the fitting/adapter from the block is pretty small (I know reasonable and pretty small aren't very scientific, I'll look up the sizes in a bit). The idea being to allow even flow that disperses the heat around the block while warming up without preventing a complete warmup.
The heater generates heat as fast as the engine can make it.
The block temps are fairly constant and even since the thermostat doesn't provide the only path of substantive cooling circulation. Today was near 65 and I was hitting 15lbs of boost regularly and the temps didn't change at all from several days ago when it was 20 outside.
I have a large pile of as-yet unorganized receipts to go through to find the block fitting size and where I bought the fitting from. I'll start digging if anyone is interested.
What sorta pictures would be most helpful ?
BTW, great build!
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