ABSURDflow Turbo KLDE Mazda V6 Thread
#24
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Transmission conversion is common in the GTX/Protege community since mazda FWD and AWD transmissions are glass.
#29
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In regards to fronting the money, I figured that would be a given, or if nothing else, I would hope to pay for the right to purchase his cad dimensions, ( with a signed non-duplicate Clause in hand, don't want to rip anyone off.) Given the quality of Tim's work, I am willing to bet that it would be well worth the cost.
#30
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I :heart: MT.net. OK I'll try to hit it all up:
Yeah that's fine. I will attempt to document it well and not disappear in the future.
It's pretty darn simple. If you can't figure it out on your own, the built in tutorials are pretty good.
I am not sure. There's talk that it's fine as-is for my goals (a few more HP than whatever you make) but I can't seem to find anyone making that power on an internally stock engine. The rods/pistons are the weak link so that's what I'll replace with forgings. I'm still learning how to spec a custom piston.
Stock crank is forged. HLA's so I won't be spinning it to your RPM :(
If someone wants them, sure.
They will be machined here at work, both the adapter plate and the flywheel adapter gizmo. I couldn't afford this otherwise. A 12"x18"x1" plate of aluminum isn't cheap, but I come to find out we have had over 24 feet of 'obsolete' 12" x 1" plate on the shelf for the past 9 years. The flywheel adapter will be made from the cutoffs from our steel upper camshaft pulleys. I am lucky and must take advantage of the opportunities here while I still have the chance.
I can certainly get a cost together once it's all done, if it all works.
haha yeah I think anyone that reads that thread thinks that. She's pretty good. It's definitely the 'kit' to buy if anyone want's to run this V6 with safe power levels/miata drivetrain. Her subframe quote shipped to me from England was slightly cheaper than the V8R subframe.
Making a flywheel/bellhousing adapter for the BP/T5 is doable. The problem is the PPF, driveshaft yolk, and the costs of the donor (mustang?) flywheel/clutch/starter. That will all add to the cost of the trans swap. You could probably find a way to use the miata starter/flywheel/pressureplate with a clutch with a T5 spline, and rig up a way to work throwout bearing. I'm starting from scratch to it's much easier to just use all inexpensive mustang parts.
Because:
I budgeted buying a brand new Ford "T5z" for $1200, and the bellhousing for $155. I can definitely get a used one for cheaper and I may, if I can find one I trust. I do not want to explode a junkyard trans after getting this thing together.
If this all works and someone wanted to copy this drivetrain in the future, I will make everything available to buy or the files available to make it yourself. I do not think there will be much demand so it shouldn't be a problem making another set or two 'on the side' at work.
I am not sure. There's talk that it's fine as-is for my goals (a few more HP than whatever you make) but I can't seem to find anyone making that power on an internally stock engine. The rods/pistons are the weak link so that's what I'll replace with forgings. I'm still learning how to spec a custom piston.
Stock crank is forged. HLA's so I won't be spinning it to your RPM :(
If someone wants them, sure.
I can certainly get a cost together once it's all done, if it all works.
Saw your thread "over there"
Am I the only one who is oddly drawn to wanting to know what Claire looks like?
For those that don't follow it, Claire lives in England, is building a KLDE Miata, her scratch built subframe looks like a million bucks and she fabricates like a house on fire but we don't know what she looks like.
Probably don't want to know and spoil the illusion.
Am I the only one who is oddly drawn to wanting to know what Claire looks like?
For those that don't follow it, Claire lives in England, is building a KLDE Miata, her scratch built subframe looks like a million bucks and she fabricates like a house on fire but we don't know what she looks like.
Probably don't want to know and spoil the illusion.
In regards to fronting the money, I figured that would be a given, or if nothing else, I would hope to pay for the right to purchase his cad dimensions, ( with a signed non-duplicate Clause in hand, don't want to rip anyone off.) Given the quality of Tim's work, I am willing to bet that it would be well worth the cost.
Last edited by TurboTim; 11-03-2011 at 10:03 AM.
#31
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I am not sure. There's talk that it's fine as-is for my goals (a few more HP than whatever you make) but I can't seem to find anyone making that power on an internally stock engine. The rods/pistons are the weak link so that's what I'll replace with forgings. I'm still learning how to spec a custom piston.
Stock crank is forged. HLA's so I won't be spinning it to your RPM :(
Stock crank is forged. HLA's so I won't be spinning it to your RPM :(
350-400 can be achieved on stock internals but is the limit of the rods, those with aftermarket rods see north of that but around 500 oiling issues start popping up.
if you want solid lifter search out KLG4 heads from 1998-02 626 KL's they are solid lifters.
#34
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the rod bearings end up starved for oil at higher loads, here is a good thread about it, some of the fixes suggested and his rebuild: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...d+bearing+soup
though a local car made 500 wheel without oiling issues on a precision 6265 with just rods/pistons so it is not a guaranteed death either.
though a local car made 500 wheel without oiling issues on a precision 6265 with just rods/pistons so it is not a guaranteed death either.
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If I recall correctly there was a small displacement version of the KL (1.8 I think), which had a great bore/stroke and rod ratio. Someone tried to build a 9k rpm screamer based on that, but found that the oiling system was ****.
Im sure if you keep the redline not much north of stock it should be fine, regardless of power.
It would probably be worth porting and shimming the oil pump though, Its usually not difficult to do, depending on the pumps design.
Im sure if you keep the redline not much north of stock it should be fine, regardless of power.
It would probably be worth porting and shimming the oil pump though, Its usually not difficult to do, depending on the pumps design.
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My block doesn't have oil squirters, making it a later block. it does have a forged crank though, that was my only real requirement. I do plan to enlarge the main bearing feed passages. I could also run an external oil pump, there's large ports/plugs on the oil pressure side everywhere.
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I used to be an mx6 junkie, back when a KLZE was all the 'rage'. There's some twinT'd making 1000whp - why in a FWD car who knows (dyno queens). Subscribed for V6 destructornator
You gonna use the oem intake manifold with the VRIS?
Make it fit!
You gonna use the oem intake manifold with the VRIS?
Make it fit!
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