300+whp 2002 miata custom turbo kit project
#1
300+whp 2002 miata custom turbo kit project
Project started when my dad wanted a fast reliable little car for summer....so ended with the idea of a turboed miata. (because i had experience with turboed BP)
We searched for the best model to by to put a turbo on it
He ended buying a 2002 (sport package) in absolute MINT condition.
Some features : blisten suspension
OEM frame brace and shock tower braces
6 speed transmission
VVT engine
torsen LSD
biggest OEM brakes
16" wheels
nardi steering and shift ****
no a/c, no cruise, nothing fancy so....... lightweight
We searched for the best model to by to put a turbo on it
He ended buying a 2002 (sport package) in absolute MINT condition.
Some features : blisten suspension
OEM frame brace and shock tower braces
6 speed transmission
VVT engine
torsen LSD
biggest OEM brakes
16" wheels
nardi steering and shift ****
no a/c, no cruise, nothing fancy so....... lightweight
#6
****car has 65 000 km
Parts list:(price are in CAD an include shipping and duty)
supra ct26 turbo (free had one from my mk3)(50-100$ used)
ct26 rebuild kit (75$)
ct26 gasket set (75$)
ct26 mild steel inlet flange (30$)
ct26 stainless exhaust flange (40$)
FM lvl 1 clutch (475$)
deatchwerks 550cc injectors (310$)
AEM FIC (free had one from my old ZMDET protege) (340$)
Summit Racing Parts list :
Treadstone Performance parts list:
Parts list:(price are in CAD an include shipping and duty)
supra ct26 turbo (free had one from my mk3)(50-100$ used)
ct26 rebuild kit (75$)
ct26 gasket set (75$)
ct26 mild steel inlet flange (30$)
ct26 stainless exhaust flange (40$)
FM lvl 1 clutch (475$)
deatchwerks 550cc injectors (310$)
AEM FIC (free had one from my old ZMDET protege) (340$)
Summit Racing Parts list :
Treadstone Performance parts list:
#14
you're right i forgot to mention AEM UEGO gauge (Wideband Controler)
And I know 300whp on a piggyback seem risky but Have you tried the AEM FIC, it's a very powerful small box. I have a MS3X in my drag only 2nd gen mazda protege and an AEM EMS in my supra and all i can say is that the FIC is certainly not as powerful as these standalone but I am not shooting for crazy numbers and crazy boost like in my protege for exemple. I ran my ZMDET protege at 21 psi for 2 years on this box and never had a problem and i started with a 250000 km engine and it never let go since i scrapped the car with 340000km on it. The only thing is that you need to make a good safe tune.
And I know 300whp on a piggyback seem risky but Have you tried the AEM FIC, it's a very powerful small box. I have a MS3X in my drag only 2nd gen mazda protege and an AEM EMS in my supra and all i can say is that the FIC is certainly not as powerful as these standalone but I am not shooting for crazy numbers and crazy boost like in my protege for exemple. I ran my ZMDET protege at 21 psi for 2 years on this box and never had a problem and i started with a 250000 km engine and it never let go since i scrapped the car with 340000km on it. The only thing is that you need to make a good safe tune.
#16
Now for those who would be interested in installing an FIC:
First thing i did on the car was to install the FIC. I did it first because i wanted to be sure that the car was acting like if the FIC wasn't there and i wanted to collect data from the MAF voltage on the car when it was totally stock. Once the dataloging completed i had values at each RPM where i needed to clamp the MAF voltage and adjusted the MAF voltage table in the FIC to prevent the stock ECU in seeing increased airflow
BE AWARE!!!!
The boomslang harness needed a mod to be 'plug and play' on the car
The stock miata MAF outputs a voltage of around 8v with key on and engine not running but if you tap on the wire you will get around 1.44v because there is a resistor inside the stock ecu to bring the voltage down to a more friendly 0-5v signal. The problem when you plug in the AEM FIC is that the MAF signal wire is intercepted so you can clamp it but with the wire cut there is no more resistor to bring the power down. So in the Boomslang harness they welded a 1k ohm resistor between the MAF signal input and the ground to bring the voltage down the a 0-5v signal that the FIC is able to recognize. The problem is that with the 1K resistor the voltage with the key on and engine off is around 1.24v instead of the 1.44v. If you let it alone the car will start and die because it will not read the right amount of air. the fix is to install a 250 ohm resistor inline with the 1k ohm already in the harness. it will give a total resistance 0f 1250 ohm and bring the voltage up to exactly 1.44v. Now the car will start right up and act exactly like before the AEM FIC was installed.
NOTE: The car can't be run with the jumper harness in place it has to be plugged in the FIC
I don't say the boomslang harness is not good, i only say that on my car is was not working
First thing i did on the car was to install the FIC. I did it first because i wanted to be sure that the car was acting like if the FIC wasn't there and i wanted to collect data from the MAF voltage on the car when it was totally stock. Once the dataloging completed i had values at each RPM where i needed to clamp the MAF voltage and adjusted the MAF voltage table in the FIC to prevent the stock ECU in seeing increased airflow
BE AWARE!!!!
The boomslang harness needed a mod to be 'plug and play' on the car
The stock miata MAF outputs a voltage of around 8v with key on and engine not running but if you tap on the wire you will get around 1.44v because there is a resistor inside the stock ecu to bring the voltage down to a more friendly 0-5v signal. The problem when you plug in the AEM FIC is that the MAF signal wire is intercepted so you can clamp it but with the wire cut there is no more resistor to bring the power down. So in the Boomslang harness they welded a 1k ohm resistor between the MAF signal input and the ground to bring the voltage down the a 0-5v signal that the FIC is able to recognize. The problem is that with the 1K resistor the voltage with the key on and engine off is around 1.24v instead of the 1.44v. If you let it alone the car will start and die because it will not read the right amount of air. the fix is to install a 250 ohm resistor inline with the 1k ohm already in the harness. it will give a total resistance 0f 1250 ohm and bring the voltage up to exactly 1.44v. Now the car will start right up and act exactly like before the AEM FIC was installed.
NOTE: The car can't be run with the jumper harness in place it has to be plugged in the FIC
I don't say the boomslang harness is not good, i only say that on my car is was not working
#17
Ok now the real project really starts.
First i started by removing the engine to change the clutch, install an oil return fitting on the oil pan, oil feed for turbo and coolant fittings for the turbo.
the coolant fittings acts as a bypass for the thermostat but the car don't have any problems getting warm quickly and it gives an awesome flow of coolant in the turbo
I also did some cosmetic upgrade while i had the engine out
First i removed the intake and valve cover to change the injectors.
than it was cooking time:
I powdercoated the valve cover and the intake manifold in oem wheels gray and with anodized red lettering and added a clear coat over that... Personnaly i think it look pretty good
And here you see the FM clutch:
First i started by removing the engine to change the clutch, install an oil return fitting on the oil pan, oil feed for turbo and coolant fittings for the turbo.
the coolant fittings acts as a bypass for the thermostat but the car don't have any problems getting warm quickly and it gives an awesome flow of coolant in the turbo
I also did some cosmetic upgrade while i had the engine out
First i removed the intake and valve cover to change the injectors.
than it was cooking time:
I powdercoated the valve cover and the intake manifold in oem wheels gray and with anodized red lettering and added a clear coat over that... Personnaly i think it look pretty good
And here you see the FM clutch:
#18
Slowest Progress Ever
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Pics look good and I dig your valve cover. Why use those fittings on the thermostat? I'm looking a a little piece of hose that could easily be removed to supply that turbo with plenty of coolant.
#20
Coolant in the turbo is mainly use to cool the turbo after shutdown. It doesn't need flow, it just need a height differential - as in, one side needs to above the other side. Doesn't matter which is inlet and which is outlet.
During normal operation turbo is cooled by oil, so an oil cooler is a better idea.
During normal operation turbo is cooled by oil, so an oil cooler is a better idea.