Cobroulis

Hello,

Long time reader, not posting very much. I drive a NB 1.6 (EU-spec) which has been running a GT2560 for the last couple of years. So far I have been running the car using a oil dipstick return (purchased from G19 engineering) which works, but not flawlessly. It did help me get the car up and running by postponing the terrifying (to me) task of drilling the sump, but it did leave the oil return business unfinished, in the sense that I always wanted to do it properly. Indeed, the dipstick return drains the oil, but due to its reduced capacity it leaks a bit and also allows oil to be forced past the turbo seals.

I am creating this thread mainly to ask about my options for oil return / sump drilling, since I have not been able to find another thread discussing this exact problem. Here goes:

I have seen numerous threads discussing the location where the sump must be drilled, however in all instances there seems to be enough space below the bottom of the A/C bracket, for the oil return line to enter the sump. The difference I think I find between most cases that I see in the forums and my car is the size and shape of the A/C compressor bracket, which in my case seems to be larger. Photos of the area are attached, showing the sump and the shape and size of the bracket, which I think may not allow enough room / height for the oil return line to enter the sump above the oil level - maybe not even enough space to fit the fitting in the available height. Other than mine, all the photos that I see seem to allow more room under the bottom of the A/C compressor bracket (e.g. this or this).















Why do very few people drill the hole more towards the front of the sump where there is a flat surface at an angle to its front and side (see photo for reference, from another thread in this forum)? This seems like a perfect spot to drill, with much better access and seemingly less chance of hitting the oil pickup. This has already been touched on in other threads (e.g. here and here), but I have not been able to find a response to clarify why it's not being used. Is it just a matter of routing the oil line to that spot? Or is there any other reason against using this spot?




So question no. 1 is: Should / Could I drill on this flat area at the front of the sump? it seems this way I could avoid the large A/C compressor bracket altogether with little to no adverse effects, if I route the oil line correctly (downwards). Otherwise, why does it seem like there is not enough space below the A/C compressor bracket, to drill the hole on the side of the sump? Is my A/C bracket different to most, indeed? Should I try to find another bracket / does it make sense to? Should I try to grind it down, to allow more room for the fitting?

Question no. 2 is: I have a fitting that I am planning to use, I don't remember the exact size but it is large enough, and I also have the appropriate drill and tap to fit it. The fitting though is NOT aluminum, i think it's S/S or plated. Should I use it or do I risk having problems due to the dissimilar metals (i.e. corrosion or cracks due to different expansion factors)?

Thanks for reading my lengthy post, please let me know thoughts and / or past experience.

SPIDEY CY

Done plenty 1.6 eu blocks but RHD. I always drill and tap here

Cobroulis

Sure, that's a very good location, but it demands that the engine is out of the car... I'm not planning to take the engine out.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

You’re English composition is excellent.

Typical to use brass parts and JB Weld. Never heard of any corrosion issues, though I understand the concern.

As as long as there is a constantly descending path from turbo drain to pan, you should be Okay. And your line must miss the fan belt. Use Nitrile (also known as buns-N) rubber hose (or Viton). A typical hose is Gates “LOL”.

What did you conclude on your kick-back issue? I think when mine did that I traced it to a lean condition.

DNM

Cobroulis

Thanks DNM!! I've spent a few years in the UK so English is almost like my mother tongue now.

I think the fitting that I've got is not brass but stainless steel or galvanised, it's not yellow / bronze in color. It's not coming in contact with water, so I'm assuming it's fine. Two reasons why I intend to use it, one is that I've already got it and two is that I have the appropriate drill and tap for it. I'll research a bit more before I do, but unless I find something specific to worry about, I may as well go ahead and use it.

So it seems that no. 1 reason why very few people drill that spot is the strange curve that the hose has to follow to get there while still pointing down... I guess I'd better make sure it is ok to use, but once I do, it should be fine.

As far as the hose is concerned, thanks for the recommendation! I'm planning to upgrade to a braided hose eventually, which may be a bit overkill, but I will feel better knowing it's protected s little bit better - at least mechanically.

For the kick-back issue, my findings kind of point in the same direction as yours, although it's been a while since I touched those settings - i remember that my conclusion was along the lines of it needing a little more time to have adequate fuel before actually starting. I think the settings that seem to have solved the problem were to raise the cranking RPM (my current setting is 650) and to delay the ignition for a few engine rotations - I seem to remember editing some setting along the lines of "skip pulses" in TunerStudio, although I am not sure if that's the case because my current skip pulses setting is 3, which is the value suggested by the TS help balloon.
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