Category: Import
Status: Clean Title

I have a 1999 Mazda Miata for sale, in USA - Maryland.

Mileage: 110,000 miles


Asking price is $11,000 obo



1999 Mazda Miata
Popular Equipment Package
Silver, Tan Interior, tan top
110,000 miles
AC removed, Power Steering intact


Turbo:
BEGI S6 with GT3071R (under 500 miles)
Ceramic coated manifold
Tial MVS watercooled wastegate
BEGI #3 intercooler



Drive train:
6 Speed Mazda Speed transmission
3.63 Cryo treated R&P with new bearings and crush sleeve
Delrin differential mounts
ACT pressure plate
ACT disc
Lightened flywheel

Suspension:
Tein Flex 9/6kg
Tein EDFC
Flyin’ Miata Sway bars
949 Racing chassis braces
Flyin’ Miata butterfly brace
Stein’s framerails

Brakes:
Goodwin Racing Big brake kit, version 4
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda.../60-10915.html
Race and street pads included. Rotor rings have plenty of life
Wilwood proportioning valve
SS lines, front to back


Engine #1:
Forged Rods
Flyin’ Miata 8.6:1 Wiseco pistons
ARP everywhere
Supertech valve springs
Supertech +1mm SS valves
Ported polished, head.
Coil on plug conversion
Deatschwerks 800cc injectors
Koyo 52mm Radiator
Coolant re-route (not homemade, drawing a blank on the name)
3in V-banded downpipe
3in SS dual exhaust

Engine #2 (shortblock):
Forged Rods
Flyin’ Miata 8.6:1 Wiseco pistons
ARP everywhere
Crank scraper


Electronics:
Braineack built MS-2
Apexi AVC-R
Upgraded stereo (drawing a blank at the moment)
Viper Alarm with remote start

Interior:
Sparco seats
Momo wheel with NRG #4 removable hub
Hard dog Dual diagonal roll bar with harness bar



I picked this car up 4 years ago as a replacement for a motorcycle after an accident. Over the years I’ve upgraded practically everything possible. I weep at how much money I have in this thing.


The car is in reasonably good shape for a 1999. A few dings here and there, and a few paint blemishes, but nothing too horrid.


The issue with the car is engine noise. I installed a fully built block last spring, and have been chasing a temperature and rpm dependant noise since. The noise only occurs above 3,000rpm, and only when the motor is warm. I was at my wits end trying to identify the noise, so I purchased another fully built short block, which can be included with the sale. Who knows, maybe the noise is something easy to fix. Worst case you’re looking at a weekend of work to correct by swapping blocks.


I am forgetting a ton of stuff that’s done to the car or included with it. As I remember, I will update this thread.


The stock suspension, seats, radiator, and sway bars, are all included. A Silver hard top with headliner and defrost, cart, cover, and hoist can be included for an additional $1k.


Take a look at the specs and pics. Unfortunately, all the underhood pics are with the BEGI S4 kit. I will snap some of the S6 kit soon.

If you have any questions, please email me at: ptschmidt@gmail.com

 

Dozens more pics here:

http://patrickschmidt.baked.net/Miata?page=1

 

The coolant reroute is by K-Tuned. The indash DVD/NAV is Eclipse.

The car also has:
LC-1 wideband with analog gauge
Defi EGT
VDO Oil and Water temp
HIDs
15 X 9 Bronze 6ULs with 225/45 Hankook RS2s

I'm still forgetting a ton of stuff, will update later.

 

emailed please get back to me.

 

You're not gonna mention where you melted the rod bearings and then replaced them.. but the noise came back? Cmon man....

Just say the bottom end needs replacement but it's included. No reason to be shady.

 

It's okay he hasn't got back to me. Thanks for the info tho.

 

Ha, thanks for the remote diagnosis. It actually turned out to be a broken valve spring (thanks supertech!) The bottom end is 100% good to go.

If anybody is interested in the car, drop me a line. I flaked on responding before since my wife walked out on me the week I posted this for sale.

 

So it comes with a good shortblock and a spare shortblock?

Sorry about the wife :(

 

Yes, comes with the spare.

 

Well i have a paid off property that i am currently in the process with the bank for an equity loan to purchase a toy which at first was a gtx35r 400whp rx7 but now i'm thinking by downgrading i can have two cars instead (a fun one and a matrix for mpg). It's a nice freaking FD but I still prefer to be on the cheap side but IDK, i'm still on the fence about this.

Anyways few questions,

First is what will you accept because I plan to drive it away so all the extra stuff I cannot take/dont want.

I would like a walk through video or maybe a trusted member to take a look.

Compression test..

More info on the 20psi tune like tuner, whp, air intake temps, hows the idle etc.

In your pictures you ran with drag slips so what was your time?

Will this make it on a long drive back to the Southwest (2,000 miles)?

Is the hard top ready to go?

BTW it is a very nice car and sucks about the wife thing man.

 

This car is back up for sale. I ended up swapping motors out of an abundance of caution and cannot get the rear main seal to stop leaking. If you have the time to put into it, come steal this from me.

 

How much are you asking at this point then?

 

$8k. Parting it out would yield much more than that but I have neither the time nor desire.

 

Did swapping out the short block fix the noise?

 

Yep. I'm still convinced it was in the head, but rather than do the job twice the shortblock came out at the same time.

 

I can vouch for this guy - I'm abusing running his old forged internals.

 

I dug through your album but it's tough to tell what's current and what's been changed. Do you post up a couple current engine bay pics? Is the head on the car now a stock 99/00? Would you forsee the car having any problems if someone was to drive the car to Florida after purchasing it?

*edit - just read the rear main is leaking, probably not recommended for a +1000mi drive*

 

Most RMS on Miatas leak, even on stock blocks at like 30k.. Not a big deal unless it's like a quart a day.

 

Sent you an email.

 

Contact me if this car is still for sale, I sent you a PM.

Walter