1990 Mazda Miata on CCW's, Featured Car
#1
1990 Mazda Miata on CCW's, Featured Car
Category: Import
Status: Clean Title
I have a 1990 Mazda Miata for sale, in USA - Illinois.
Mileage: 191,000 miles
Engine Size: 1.6L
Asking price is $6,000
Car is officially for sale.
Many of you already know the car, and for those who don't, this car is referred to as "The CCW Miata". Dan Young spent spent a lot of time building and perfecting this Miata, it truly is a work of art.
Everyone who knows me knows that I treated the car like a baby. The only time the car saw rain was on my way back from Florida for about an hour or so. When I did drive it, I never pushed it etc.
About 5 months ago, I bought a one way ticket to Florida, purchased the car and drove the it back to Chicago.
Since I've owned it, I replaced the hardtop bracket bolts, changed the floormats out, and replaced the shift **** with an OEM ****. I have driven the car around 15-20 times since it has been in my possession.
A month or two ago I was driving to a friends house and heard a pop. The car started acting funny so I pulled over and popped the hood. A coupler connected to the intake had ripped open which essentially caused the headgasket to chunk, and two of the valves in the head to burn. I took the head in to a machine shop and had them redo the valves for me. After installing a new headgasket and the refinished head, the car ran great. It was boosting the correct numbers, staying perfectly heated etc. The only thing I noticed is that I would get white/gray smoke that would linger in the air at startup. I drove the car 3 maybe 4 times like this and then it sat for another 2 or so weeks.
Here's the head after I got it back from the machine shop:
Here's a picture of my supplies when reinstalling the head:
About two weeks ago, I went to replace the throttle body with a used unit to fix a slightly high idle (950-1000rpm instead of 800-900rpm) that had been around for a while. I went to start the car up and forgot to tighten the coupler to the intake piping this time. I heard a pop and the car started idling just like it was doing when the headgasket blew before. I shut the car off immediately, tightened all of the couplers, and restarted with the same outcome. I'm assuming the headgasket is blown again at this point, and the car has been sitting in my garage for about a week since this second incident. The car will start up but I would not suggest driving it like this.
I contemplated replacing the headgasket again or even swapping the entire motor to a different low milage 1.6L, but I don't have the time right now since I am in school.
I am looking to get 6k for the car in it's current state. A used 1.6L Miata motor can be had for anywhere from $100-$500, depending on milage and condition. I would assume if you replaced the headgasket again and figured the smoke issue out, you wouldn't need another motor.
I am willing to ship anywhere in the USA at buyers expense.
Here is a link to my car's JDMC feature so you can reference the pictures:
Tommy’s 1990 Mazda Miata «
Status: Clean Title
I have a 1990 Mazda Miata for sale, in USA - Illinois.
Mileage: 191,000 miles
Engine Size: 1.6L
Asking price is $6,000
Car is officially for sale.
Many of you already know the car, and for those who don't, this car is referred to as "The CCW Miata". Dan Young spent spent a lot of time building and perfecting this Miata, it truly is a work of art.
Everyone who knows me knows that I treated the car like a baby. The only time the car saw rain was on my way back from Florida for about an hour or so. When I did drive it, I never pushed it etc.
About 5 months ago, I bought a one way ticket to Florida, purchased the car and drove the it back to Chicago.
Since I've owned it, I replaced the hardtop bracket bolts, changed the floormats out, and replaced the shift **** with an OEM ****. I have driven the car around 15-20 times since it has been in my possession.
A month or two ago I was driving to a friends house and heard a pop. The car started acting funny so I pulled over and popped the hood. A coupler connected to the intake had ripped open which essentially caused the headgasket to chunk, and two of the valves in the head to burn. I took the head in to a machine shop and had them redo the valves for me. After installing a new headgasket and the refinished head, the car ran great. It was boosting the correct numbers, staying perfectly heated etc. The only thing I noticed is that I would get white/gray smoke that would linger in the air at startup. I drove the car 3 maybe 4 times like this and then it sat for another 2 or so weeks.
Here's the head after I got it back from the machine shop:
Here's a picture of my supplies when reinstalling the head:
About two weeks ago, I went to replace the throttle body with a used unit to fix a slightly high idle (950-1000rpm instead of 800-900rpm) that had been around for a while. I went to start the car up and forgot to tighten the coupler to the intake piping this time. I heard a pop and the car started idling just like it was doing when the headgasket blew before. I shut the car off immediately, tightened all of the couplers, and restarted with the same outcome. I'm assuming the headgasket is blown again at this point, and the car has been sitting in my garage for about a week since this second incident. The car will start up but I would not suggest driving it like this.
I contemplated replacing the headgasket again or even swapping the entire motor to a different low milage 1.6L, but I don't have the time right now since I am in school.
I am looking to get 6k for the car in it's current state. A used 1.6L Miata motor can be had for anywhere from $100-$500, depending on milage and condition. I would assume if you replaced the headgasket again and figured the smoke issue out, you wouldn't need another motor.
I am willing to ship anywhere in the USA at buyers expense.
Here is a link to my car's JDMC feature so you can reference the pictures:
Tommy’s 1990 Mazda Miata «
Last edited by Tdadd; 09-14-2012 at 02:55 AM.
#2
Here is an updated parts list for the car. This list also includes what the previous owner (Chris) did to the car before passing it on to me.
• 1.6L w/ Greddy Turbo set-up
• 5 speed manual transmission
• CCW LM16 16x9.5 Wheels (Custom finish)
• BC Racing Coilovers
• OEM R Package Front Lip
• Carbon Fiber Hardtop w/Lexan Window
• Sparco Speed Seats
• Momo Tuner Steering Wheel
• Power Windows
Engine/Drivetrain:
Low milage 1.6L engine (currently with the blown headgasket). Transmission replaced with a 1999 5-spd manual about 3 years ago. The differential replaced with a factory LSD unit of the same year span (6”-1.6L) after the turbo kit was installed.
- Greddy Turbo Kit (TD04 15G)
- Greddy Intercooler (anodized black)
- Custom Intercooler Piping
- Turbo Tony 2.5” Downpipe (w/flex coupler)
- DP6061 2.5” Exhaust (magnaflow muffler)
- 1.8L Injectors
- Walbro 190lph Fuel Pump
- ACT Street Light Flywheel
- ACT Street Clutch (solid disk, HD pressure plate)
- 1.6L OEM LSD
- MSD 8.0mm Plug Wires
- Koyo Aluminum Radiator
- CSR Aluminum Overflow
- ARP Fasteners Throughout
- Wire Tucked Harness (loomed & shrink tubed)
- Custom Stainless Hood Dampners
Suspension/Wheels:
Overall ride feels great due to the aftermarket additions, i.e. bushings, ball joints, etc are all in good working order. Do need lube the endlinks every once & awhile as they squeak a little if dry.
- BC Racing BR Type Coilovers
- CCW LM16 16x9.5 Wheels (custom finish; hyperblack centers & black chrome pvd lips)
Offsets: Front 29mm / Rear 22mm
- Toyo T1R 245/35/16 tires
- Eibach Front & Rear Sway Bars
- BSI Racing Adjustable Aluminum Endlinks
- Superpro Offset Rear Lower Control Arm Bushings
- De-powered OEM Steering Rack (shaved fittings & fully polished)
Current Millage:
Chassis - 191,000 miles
Engine - 50,000 miles
Exterior:
- Virtually no rust
- OEM R Package Front Lip
- Carbon Fiber Hardtop w/Lexan Window
- Spec Miata Hardtop Brackets (solid mount)
- Smoked Front Turn Signal Lenses
- VHT Painted Side markers & Tail lights
- 6000k H4 HID Kit
Interior:
- New JDM "Roadster" Floormats
- Stock seats, drivers side has a tear
- Momo Tuner Steering Wheel
- NRG Short Hub
- NRG Quick Release
- Autometer Boost Gauge
- AEM UEGO Gauge
- Panasonic CD Player (ipod)
- Panasonic Door Speakers
Additional Information:
The following items have been removed from the car: Soft Top, A/ C, Power Steering Pump, Airbag, Washer Bottle & Lines, Charcoal Canister, Stock Radiator Overflow (aftermarket installed). Both fans are on a manual switch (oem wiring is bypassed) so you can run them when needed.
When Chris owned the Car…
- He purchased the car with the wiper motor & wiper arms removed for the ultimate ‘clean’ look, car was rarely driven in the rain. Wiper motor & wiper arms were reinstalled, but kept with the wire tuck look.
- He rebuilt leaking front brake calipers
- He had the rear axles rebuilt & improved to work better with a car that sits this low.
- He installed a ‘push to start’ button when fixing the bad ignition switch. Added an additional 12v source, as part of this install
- He replaced the starter motor.
- And finally, Chris had a professional alignment done on the car. (I have the spec sheet for this)
• 1.6L w/ Greddy Turbo set-up
• 5 speed manual transmission
• CCW LM16 16x9.5 Wheels (Custom finish)
• BC Racing Coilovers
• OEM R Package Front Lip
• Carbon Fiber Hardtop w/Lexan Window
• Sparco Speed Seats
• Momo Tuner Steering Wheel
• Power Windows
Engine/Drivetrain:
Low milage 1.6L engine (currently with the blown headgasket). Transmission replaced with a 1999 5-spd manual about 3 years ago. The differential replaced with a factory LSD unit of the same year span (6”-1.6L) after the turbo kit was installed.
- Greddy Turbo Kit (TD04 15G)
- Greddy Intercooler (anodized black)
- Custom Intercooler Piping
- Turbo Tony 2.5” Downpipe (w/flex coupler)
- DP6061 2.5” Exhaust (magnaflow muffler)
- 1.8L Injectors
- Walbro 190lph Fuel Pump
- ACT Street Light Flywheel
- ACT Street Clutch (solid disk, HD pressure plate)
- 1.6L OEM LSD
- MSD 8.0mm Plug Wires
- Koyo Aluminum Radiator
- CSR Aluminum Overflow
- ARP Fasteners Throughout
- Wire Tucked Harness (loomed & shrink tubed)
- Custom Stainless Hood Dampners
Suspension/Wheels:
Overall ride feels great due to the aftermarket additions, i.e. bushings, ball joints, etc are all in good working order. Do need lube the endlinks every once & awhile as they squeak a little if dry.
- BC Racing BR Type Coilovers
- CCW LM16 16x9.5 Wheels (custom finish; hyperblack centers & black chrome pvd lips)
Offsets: Front 29mm / Rear 22mm
- Toyo T1R 245/35/16 tires
- Eibach Front & Rear Sway Bars
- BSI Racing Adjustable Aluminum Endlinks
- Superpro Offset Rear Lower Control Arm Bushings
- De-powered OEM Steering Rack (shaved fittings & fully polished)
Current Millage:
Chassis - 191,000 miles
Engine - 50,000 miles
Exterior:
- Virtually no rust
- OEM R Package Front Lip
- Carbon Fiber Hardtop w/Lexan Window
- Spec Miata Hardtop Brackets (solid mount)
- Smoked Front Turn Signal Lenses
- VHT Painted Side markers & Tail lights
- 6000k H4 HID Kit
Interior:
- New JDM "Roadster" Floormats
- Stock seats, drivers side has a tear
- Momo Tuner Steering Wheel
- NRG Short Hub
- NRG Quick Release
- Autometer Boost Gauge
- AEM UEGO Gauge
- Panasonic CD Player (ipod)
- Panasonic Door Speakers
Additional Information:
The following items have been removed from the car: Soft Top, A/ C, Power Steering Pump, Airbag, Washer Bottle & Lines, Charcoal Canister, Stock Radiator Overflow (aftermarket installed). Both fans are on a manual switch (oem wiring is bypassed) so you can run them when needed.
When Chris owned the Car…
- He purchased the car with the wiper motor & wiper arms removed for the ultimate ‘clean’ look, car was rarely driven in the rain. Wiper motor & wiper arms were reinstalled, but kept with the wire tuck look.
- He rebuilt leaking front brake calipers
- He had the rear axles rebuilt & improved to work better with a car that sits this low.
- He installed a ‘push to start’ button when fixing the bad ignition switch. Added an additional 12v source, as part of this install
- He replaced the starter motor.
- And finally, Chris had a professional alignment done on the car. (I have the spec sheet for this)
#9
I'm posting here one last time to give an update on the car. After sitting for 4+ weeks, I went to start the car to pull it out of the garage and take more pictures. I reconnected the spark plug wires, tightened the throttle body, and jumped the battery. To my surprise, other than a slight throttle body leak, the car is running beautifully. I will be fixing the throttle body leak within the next few days here. The car is no longer for sale for now. I will start a new thread with the updated condition of the car in the future if I decide to sell.
Thanks for your interest guys!
Thanks for your interest guys!
#10
I'm posting here one last time to give an update on the car. After sitting for 4+ weeks, I went to start the car to pull it out of the garage and take more pictures. I reconnected the spark plug wires, tightened the throttle body, and jumped the battery. To my surprise, other than a slight throttle body leak, the car is running beautifully. I will be fixing the throttle body leak within the next few days here. The car is no longer for sale for now. I will start a new thread with the updated condition of the car in the future if I decide to sell.
Thanks for your interest guys!
Thanks for your interest guys!
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