Here's the pics of the old engine and the new engine I bought for the car. This engine came from a '94 Protege and had a MBSP but it wasn't used. I didn't have the RWD pan to fit it. There's a pic of the knocking pully. The key was broken too.

_________________________________________Old engine pics____________________________________________





https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...1&d=1269635892





_________________________________________Used engine pics____________________________________________

 

Engine is in and sounds excellent with no leaks. \/ My idle oil pressure is 30psi though. Is that typical? It used to idle at 40psi. Now that I think about it my MX3 BP swap idled about 30. Maybe the FWD BPs run lower pressure? And what a plus that this engine has lower compression dished pistons.

 

Drove around awhile today dialing in the a/f. Feels like a turbo Miata again.

 

The thread is somewhat confusing, So it is completely fixed, no piston slap anymore?

How many psi after the repair?

Bump

 

I'm sorry for all the confusion. I can't seem to edit the original post. To sum it all up...

12~14psi at the moment. Slowly working my way to 15psi again. Just trying to smooth out the fuel map. Since the used engine has lower compression pistons then the Miata I'm guessing the VE has changed a bit? I'm seeing my fuel curve moving towards a higher RPM. Not sure on that one. I could probably put a little timing back in due to the lower compression pistons but I'm not going to mess with it. The Protege pistons are dished about the same depth as the Miata pistons are domed. 8.9:1 maybe? Yes, the engine was replaced with a good used engine. The used engine still has a visable crosshatch which is a general indication of it's wear (or lack of). There is no more "piston slap" but it ended up not being piston slap at all. The crank pully was loose. I replaced the pully's hub because it was damaged from being loose. The used engine was torn down to a shortblock, cleaned, painted, and all seals replaced. One rod bearing was removed and inspected and looked fine so I didn't bother messing with the rest. If it works don't fix it right? Engine has Felpro gaskets/seals and a Felpro MLS head gasket. I replaced the o-ring on the heater pipe since it's a pain to get to after assembly. The head was not disassembled and was removed with intake and exhaust/turbo attached, cleaned, and placed back on the used block. The valve cover gasket was reused because it's not very old and still soft. The timing belt and pullys were reused because they only have ~10k on them. Water pump was reused for the same reason. I need to stick some new plugs in it still. BKR7ES is what I use. The drive belts are Gaterback and relatively new. The clutch disc is new and upgraded to the 8.875" MX-6 disc. The pressure plate is an Exedy. Flywheel is stock and both the FW and PP were scuffed to allow disc break-in. I'm also impulsive about using matching bolts so rest assured this engine was assembled correctly. Locktight was used where needed like flywheel bolts and oil used on head bolts ect ect. I've been turning wrenches on cars both as a hobby and professionally for 20+ years.

As for the price... I had some local guy who wanted it and had me remove the stereo, speakers, wideband, and Synaptics BOV to get the price down to what he could afford. He backed out. I've since REINSTALLED the stereo, speakers, wideband, and put on a China Greddy knock-off BOV. The guys love this one for some reason. :\ I like the Synaptics sound personally but it's a $250 BOV so I don't mind keeping it.

I should mention the T4 compressor was replaced back to the T3 because, for one, it has to spin faster to make the same PSI which actually allows the exhaust side to flow better. It'll pull flat into redline. For two, the T3 is plenty for 15psi. For three, it spools faster due to the compressor wheel being smaller. I start building boost about 2500rpm and hit 10psi by 3100rpm. This is starting off from a 5th gear roll at about 1500rpm then holding WOT and watching the gauges. When your driving the car, the boost comes back so quickly after the shifts it puts you right back into the seat again and holds you there. There's no problem hitting 15psi in first gear except for the sudden loss of traction. I guess the same goes for second and third. haha

I'd take $6500 cash for the car and you can drive it away crankin' your tunes and watching your a/f. For $500 more you get the P4 Dell laptop (with DVD-R and WiFi!) and Synaptics BOV. I've put alot of time into getting this engine swap taken care of and done right so the new owner can just buy it and enjoy it.

 

Looks like 15psi is the limit for stock bottom ends. I tried 18psi and the #1 rod said no. -doh!-
I pulled the engine again, swapped rods, and installed new bearings also.

Price is still $6500

 

Miatas out of style or something? O.o

 

I think thrice rebuilt miatas are. The thing is you've got newbs that dont want a car thats tossed a few rods, and then you have the older more educated guys that laugh at your flung rods from behind their superior tunes.

But, free bump I guess?

 

My tune is fine. It was the 18psi 2-step launch I did while showing off that bent a rod. The original problem, as mentioned, was a loose crank pully. Both crank and hub were replaced when I put the other engine in. It's not the same engine popped twice. Hell I'd put my h-beams in it if I thought I could get that $400 back.

 

Yeah, probably wasn't in favor to post your engine tossing rods like that.

 

How so? They have been replaced. As have all the bearings. The car only gets better.

 

Let the car do the talking for itself. You have told us about the car and what has been done in great detail, you have supplied pics. You have told us your asking price. Now if the price is right, it will sell.

 

PRICE DROP $6500

-sits and waits-

Oh btw. I'm loving the MX6 disc now that it's broken in some. Has stock feeling slip but full engaugement bites alot harder then the Miata one.

 

Make offers? Partial trades? O.o

 

Could you provide some 3/4 shots of the car.

 

What's that?

 

Sorry,

http://www.carphototutorials.com/10_...car_shoot.html

Tip 7

Basically so you can see both wheels of a side and either the hood or the trunk depending if its the front or rear view.

You've got a ton of closeups but no overall exterior shots.

 

This?

 

Reduced to $5500.

 

I own this car now. Crazy lol. It's still running beautifully.