It’s been very handy so far. I have fallen timber large rocks to shift, and the ability to grasp, lift and carry large objects is making my job much easier.

 

I have a little Kubota with a 4-in-1, damned useful - including part-time crane! I also use the bucket to carry a tank of herbicide and hose reel - blackberry and serrated tussock

 

Welcome back! Love the updates, psyched to see the black rat in action!

 

I have a 4.5 gallon backpack sprayer, and a very steep hill. Water is at the top, weeds are mostly at the bottom, with about 80 yards of elevation change in between . Walking up and down to refill is wearing me out - I’m looking for a tank for the bucket to cart about for me!

 

I have a 100l silvan 12v sprayer, with a 20m retractable hose reel. You want to be able to cover a lot of ground every time you stop, rather than drive to each spot that needs spraying. The tank sits in the bucket, and I drilled a hole on the bucket to mount the reel. I had to bodge the joining of the tank output hose to the reel input, but doable with joiners that join different sized hose.

The 12v Silvans are the ducks guts for this, they come in 25l up - I have 20ac, so ...

 

 

Going somewhere?

Always a nice sight, a racecar on a trailer, ready to rock!

 

No, it mostly lives there unless I need to unload to work on it. Keeps it up out of the way of passing rodents who might otherwise seek lodgings.

 

Years ago, I picked up an NRG hub and quick release, and later a new Momo wheel. I wanted a working horn, and the standard Momo horn ring does not fit with the NRG parts. Crowders Customising make a retaining ring that will fit the NRG hub and the Momo button.

The oem clock spring does not fit under the NRG hub either - a problem for a working horn.

The NRG hub I have has a brass slip surface on the underside. Using one of the clock spring mount points, I’ve attached the horn wire to a piece of metal which will ride on the slip surface. I’m not sure how reliable that will be - will wait and see.

The wheel is mounted, and the additional space for my knees and right knuckles is welcome. I may even have enough room to bring the seat slightly forward and tilted backwards for additional head room.

 

• SFI padding for head, elbows and knees fitted to the cage;
• Fire extinguisher mounted in front of the drivers seat;
• Stickers applied (tow, battery).

Still to be done:

• Swap in the limited slip diff;
• Make and fit oil lines to plumb in the remote oil filter and oil cooler.
• Thorough nut and bolt check.

Getting closer.

 

I had an opportunity for a short drive this afternoon. Last time I drove it, other than on and off a trailer, it was freshly tuned but still on stock suspension and ten year old tires.

This time, it is on sem-slicks, fresh wheel alignment and set up coilovers: Oh my.

First impression is the straight cut gearset is very loud. It sounds like a proper race car inside.

The second most apparent thing is the transition from grip to wheel spin in every gear I pressed the throttle in. Oh my. It’s definitely the fastest wheel driven vehicle I’ve ever been in or driven and is going to take some practice.

 

After yesterday’s taster drive, the motivation to get the OSG diff installed is high.



This 3.63 diff is in an NA RX7 carrier and is set up with a solid pinion spacer and billet bearing caps. It’s probably about as sturdy as you can make a stock Miata diff.

 

Did you think about installing reinforcing plates on the arms? It looks like a slightly stronger casting, and no weak points built-in, so maybe it doesn't need them?

 

The N/A FC diff IS MUCH beefier and DOESN'T have the mazda factory notch in it designed to crack the diff rather than have the drive shaft move up into the car in the case of a rear collision.

One thing you may want to consider if you haven't done so already is new rubber seals for the axles, re-using the existing ones may leak (the ones in the photo do look new so you've probably done that already).

I'm assuming too that you're using new diff bushings? Poly mounts are fine, not harsh at all and far less harsh than delrin.

 

@Gee Emm @Lokiel

When you look at the Rx7 housing in the flesh, it is substantially thicker in all aspects in addition to not having the designed failure point. If ever this one breaks, the next option is probably a standard housing with reinforcement.

One thing I did not anticipate is the Rx7 case may have a little more oil capacity. Usually, 1L
is enough to brim the standard diff housing. Not so today.

I used SuperPro poly bushings which work with unmodified retainers with the rubber ‘teeth’ in place.

Well spotted @Lokiel The diff got all new Mazda seals (as well as bearings).