Vtec_Roadster, doing the new K24z3 swap
#62
With the new exhaust routing going right by the fuel and brake lines I decided to do some heat control. This is those slip on fiberglass sleeves.
I REALLY dislike how hot the footwell in my miata gets. With no AC my feet just bake, even when the rest of my body is comfy. So I went on a crusade to stop engine heat from getting into the driver footwell.
I used DEI Floor/Tunnel Shield II. It's fiberglass backed aluminum with a adhesive backing to the fiberglass. I would cut templates with paper and then cut out the heat shielding with a strong pair of scissors and a utility knife. The stuff is easy to work with and sticks really well. I'm hoping to get less heat and noise in the cabin. I got the 2x4ft and 2x2ft sheets to cover the whole tranny tunnel. So 12sq ft total. I weighed them. That 12 square feet added about 4lbs.
Forthe fuel lines to the FPR I made my first ever AN lines. I used all russel fittings and lines.
I REALLY dislike how hot the footwell in my miata gets. With no AC my feet just bake, even when the rest of my body is comfy. So I went on a crusade to stop engine heat from getting into the driver footwell.
I used DEI Floor/Tunnel Shield II. It's fiberglass backed aluminum with a adhesive backing to the fiberglass. I would cut templates with paper and then cut out the heat shielding with a strong pair of scissors and a utility knife. The stuff is easy to work with and sticks really well. I'm hoping to get less heat and noise in the cabin. I got the 2x4ft and 2x2ft sheets to cover the whole tranny tunnel. So 12sq ft total. I weighed them. That 12 square feet added about 4lbs.
Forthe fuel lines to the FPR I made my first ever AN lines. I used all russel fittings and lines.
#63
The engine is in!!!
with the engine in, I realized that even more things need to be clearanced. I didn't shave enough of the subframe on the passenger side so i got a nice gouge in the oil pan, nothing critical but it aint pretty. I'm going to unbolt the passenger side and pull it up with the hoist to give me some working room to shave some more off. Below you can see the pictures of where it hit. That's where you need to shave past the seam weld and almost get rid of the lip there.
Also, the downpipe fits with about 1mm of clearance to the frame. I'm going to remove that and clearance the frame as well. again see pic for details on where you should clearance if you're doing the swap.
And one last thing, my solution for covering the clutch fork hole was cutting a peice of aluminum to size and then using hondabond to glue it there.
with the engine in, I realized that even more things need to be clearanced. I didn't shave enough of the subframe on the passenger side so i got a nice gouge in the oil pan, nothing critical but it aint pretty. I'm going to unbolt the passenger side and pull it up with the hoist to give me some working room to shave some more off. Below you can see the pictures of where it hit. That's where you need to shave past the seam weld and almost get rid of the lip there.
Also, the downpipe fits with about 1mm of clearance to the frame. I'm going to remove that and clearance the frame as well. again see pic for details on where you should clearance if you're doing the swap.
And one last thing, my solution for covering the clutch fork hole was cutting a peice of aluminum to size and then using hondabond to glue it there.
#66
Is there an advantage or disadvantage of either return setup?
Just brainstorming, having the FPR after the rail means fuel is constantly flowing through the rail, even during low consumption times like idle or cruise. Having the FPR before the rail means the fuel is more stagnant in the rail, possibly heat soaking?
Would love to hear the opinion of someone who knows more about this.
#69
If he's using the stock K series rail he has to do it that way.
Is there an advantage or disadvantage of either return setup?
Just brainstorming, having the FPR after the rail means fuel is constantly flowing through the rail, even during low consumption times like idle or cruise. Having the FPR before the rail means the fuel is more stagnant in the rail, possibly heat soaking?
Would love to hear the opinion of someone who knows more about this.
Is there an advantage or disadvantage of either return setup?
Just brainstorming, having the FPR after the rail means fuel is constantly flowing through the rail, even during low consumption times like idle or cruise. Having the FPR before the rail means the fuel is more stagnant in the rail, possibly heat soaking?
Would love to hear the opinion of someone who knows more about this.
Long answer. I think there is a benefit to running a return style because of that heat soak issue and also this comment I got on reddit:
"I don't know Honda engines, but does the K24 have a return style fuel rail? Meaning, can you plumb the fuel pressure regulator down-stream from the fuel rail. That's the best option especially for an engine that revs as high as this one. The bladder in the regulator causes a pulse effect on the fuel pressure down-stream from it. And it can vary as much as 10psi; which is enough to blow an engine at high rpm."
With a quick search on the S2000 forums there's talk about injector issues above 400-500whp with a returnless style fuel system, but no real issues for lower power cars. Maybe one day I'll get power hungry and do a supercharger and switch to a return style system.
#70
Progress has been made. I got the clutch hooked up and it feels really nice, fingers crossed it stays that way and there arn't any issues.
I test fit the manifold and started plugging sensors in. The K24z3 ECT has a shoulder on it that prevents it from seating properly on the coolant neck. So I loaded mine up with thread tape and threaded it as far as i could without messing up the coolant neck threads.
I also shortened my throttle cable using Dorman 03336 cable ends. I cut the cable stop off the throttle body side but afterwards i realized i should have cut the stop off the gas pedal side for a cleaner look, and also because you could use a larger dorman cable stop to get more clamping force. But i tugged on mine as hard as possible and it didn't come undone so I should be good.
I test fit the manifold and started plugging sensors in. The K24z3 ECT has a shoulder on it that prevents it from seating properly on the coolant neck. So I loaded mine up with thread tape and threaded it as far as i could without messing up the coolant neck threads.
I also shortened my throttle cable using Dorman 03336 cable ends. I cut the cable stop off the throttle body side but afterwards i realized i should have cut the stop off the gas pedal side for a cleaner look, and also because you could use a larger dorman cable stop to get more clamping force. But i tugged on mine as hard as possible and it didn't come undone so I should be good.
#71
I also shortened my throttle cable using Dorman 03336 cable ends. I cut the cable stop off the throttle body side but afterwards i realized i should have cut the stop off the gas pedal side for a cleaner look, and also because you could use a larger dorman cable stop to get more clamping force. But i tugged on mine as hard as possible and it didn't come undone so I should be good.
#72
Yeah, we are going to start doing the same thing to throttle cables. Super easy. I have the same Dorman kit here.
Also, we have already started putting the K24Z3 water necks on the shelf back through one of the mills to bore out that port just a bit. If anyone wants to send theirs back, we'll machine it and ship it back free of charge. Guess we used a K24A sensor on our car without even realizing it. 18 months of development parts floating around the shop plus a move to a new location sometimes does these things.
Also, we have already started putting the K24Z3 water necks on the shelf back through one of the mills to bore out that port just a bit. If anyone wants to send theirs back, we'll machine it and ship it back free of charge. Guess we used a K24A sensor on our car without even realizing it. 18 months of development parts floating around the shop plus a move to a new location sometimes does these things.
__________________
KPower Industries
Home of the original KMiata Swap
K24 NC swap is coming in 2024! Learn more
info@kpower.industries
Follow us on Facebook and Instagram
KPower Industries
Home of the original KMiata Swap
K24 NC swap is coming in 2024! Learn more
info@kpower.industries
Follow us on Facebook and Instagram
#74
Also, we have already started putting the K24Z3 water necks on the shelf back through one of the mills to bore out that port just a bit. If anyone wants to send theirs back, we'll machine it and ship it back free of charge. Guess we used a K24A sensor on our car without even realizing it. 18 months of development parts floating around the shop plus a move to a new location sometimes does these things.
I tested hood fitment last weekend. Cut the inner frame out where necessary. With the modified valve cover installed, The engine sits about .5-.75 inches too high to close the hood. Some people are spacing down the subframe, some are cutting holes in their hoods. I'm going to modify my hood to fit. I got in contact with Jim at Simpson design because I really like the cowl hoods he makes. After talking for a while we settled on him making me a custom hood bump out of fiberglass and then shipping that to me and I'll install it. I'm going to have him fashion it after the distinctive BMW M3/4 "powerdome"
#75
I think I'm going to take you up on that! being the perfectionist I am lol
I tested hood fitment last weekend. Cut the inner frame out where necessary. With the modified valve cover installed, The engine sits about .5-.75 inches too high to close the hood. Some people are spacing down the subframe, some are cutting holes in their hoods. I'm going to modify my hood to fit. I got in contact with Jim at Simpson design because I really like the cowl hoods he makes. After talking for a while we settled on him making me a custom hood bump out of fiberglass and then shipping that to me and I'll install it. I'm going to have him fashion it after the distinctive BMW M3/4 "powerdome"
I tested hood fitment last weekend. Cut the inner frame out where necessary. With the modified valve cover installed, The engine sits about .5-.75 inches too high to close the hood. Some people are spacing down the subframe, some are cutting holes in their hoods. I'm going to modify my hood to fit. I got in contact with Jim at Simpson design because I really like the cowl hoods he makes. After talking for a while we settled on him making me a custom hood bump out of fiberglass and then shipping that to me and I'll install it. I'm going to have him fashion it after the distinctive BMW M3/4 "powerdome"
__________________
KPower Industries
Home of the original KMiata Swap
K24 NC swap is coming in 2024! Learn more
info@kpower.industries
Follow us on Facebook and Instagram
KPower Industries
Home of the original KMiata Swap
K24 NC swap is coming in 2024! Learn more
info@kpower.industries
Follow us on Facebook and Instagram
#76
When you are referring to the ECT sensor, does that go in the back of the head? What goes in the tstat housing behind/ next to the alternator? What are you doing about the factory Miata gauge and sender?
How hard was getting that throttle cable setup? I have a Napa near me that crimps hydraulic lines and such, I was expecting them to take care of that for me.
How's the clearance to the steering rack? Think theres enough for rack spacers?
If you space the subframe, doesn't that affect your suspension? My logic being that to achieve the same ride height you will need to lower the vehicle more with a spaced subframe, thus reducing your max bump travel. We already fight a hard battle on bump travel in these cars at sub 5" pinch weld heights, especially with non race level shocks like Xidas.
Maybe its hung up on something?
#77
If you space the subframe, doesn't that affect your suspension? My logic being that to achieve the same ride height you will need to lower the vehicle more with a spaced subframe, thus reducing your max bump travel. We already fight a hard battle on bump travel in these cars at sub 5" pinch weld heights, especially with non race level shocks like Xidas. Maybe its hung up on something?
And the engine is definitely not hung up on anything. I've moved the engine around a bunch since getting it in there. I've checked clearances everywhere.