Progress is slow, but it is going along. Lots of digging for stuff, things not fitting, swearing, and then moving on.




Square top matched to throttle





Coming together.

 

Well the oil in the water passages problem is mostly cleaned up. Probably going to get the car fired up and run some dish water machine detergent through it while running. Get it really clean inside. Link to idiocy -> https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...o-wrong-85445/





Ready to go in





Tablet button wired to 4 pin stereo plig to go to hard button in console.





Poly exh hangers are a pain in the hands.





Too short even if temp?

 

Hard buttons for the tablet. Also wired to the dimmer so they light with the headlights on and dim a well.





female stereo for buttons and other is dimmer.

 

Car won't fire and I need to replace the VVT copper washers to solve a leak. It tries to fire, but only feels like it catches 2 cylinders. It will fire if the throttle is held down and wants to run, but any let of an it dies instantly. TPS is calibrated on a Reverent base map. Only thing I changed was VE table was upped in idle range. Engine displacement changed to 1862cc for 0.020 overbore and injector cc changed to 1000cc for the ID1000's. Nothing loomed wire wise. Makes it easier to diagnose.

In test mode each coil fires in it's proper order. Hard to feel if each injector is. fuel in the port should still work even if it's timed wrong.

 

are you flooding it?

 

Here is where it is now. Yes, tons of fuel coming out. Not sure if I should just keep cranking VE table down or if I should change something else. It fire all cylinders it seems and all coils fire. It runs really rough with throttle and seems flooded. Ideas?

 

Changed the settigns a bit. Dialed up the VE table again and changed the required fuel to 2.6 per another thread that discussed ID's. I hope 2.6 is right, found 3.0 as well. What happens if it's off? Would I adjust the VE table to compensate, or what? Tomorrow is trying to get it to idle and clean it up.

Any ideas on alternate sources for the big VVT line bolt for the copper washer? I ordered one from the Mazda dealer. They're an hour each way for me. Any bizarre AutoZone part that someone knows. The VVT line is pissing out the back. Go figure the only gasket I didn't swap to new is the only leaking one so far.

 

Measure the ID and OD of the washer and take it to an auto parts store. They typically have a variety of copper crush washers available. I find Napa and O'Reilly's to be more "DIY" friendly when it comes to going off the computer parts hunting.

 

I set the required fuel to 3.1 per its calculation now. It seems much happier with that. Fires almost immediately now. It is still hunting for an idle though. AFR is 16-17 bouncing around. I keep dialing up the VE table and it gets better. Is it normal to run this much?

Ideas on how to get the idle to stabilize?

 

Lots of stuff cleaned up. Decided it should have the wires and etc cleaned up before it hits the road. Would hate to have the wires saw through and short before it makes it down the block. Bunch of crap deleted that wasn't needed. I need more loom materials for the harness and to connect the catch can.

 

It seems I have it running now after the snafu with the ID1000s and the ecu. It is close to idling stable. Every time I get the idle to rock 14.7ish then go drive it and idle at a light it goes richer. Still hunts a bit at first start up sometimes. Only went driving on it today really.

Took some teething on learning the Tunerstudio and the Megalogviewer. Basically drove around running Autotune and then later figured out I was running the wrong data logging bit. Use the drop down not the easy looking one. MLV seems to be doing magic. I really want to get the knock stuff set up so I know it isn't hurting itself. It is set to whatever default Rev sent it to me with. Probably safe, but I didn't have the injectors set and now want to make sure everything is proper.


Most recent MLV change. The auto tune keeps spiking the 15% X 1500rpm super high. The upper range of the load/rpm area is still a decent jump to rich. Being a noob I'm okay with it some. I'll try scaling it to within 5%ish of the cells next to it. Glad it up and running. Or up and exploding soon.

 

Under 4k the cells don't change much in auto tune anymore. There are some spikes that need ironed out. 4k and up needs a serious cleaning. I'll manually dial it all back. Going to try and solve the idle drop and stall issue.

Clutch master popped inside so car is down for a week waiting for the parts.

 

I have a new master sitting on my shelf it you want to get the car back on the road sooner. Just shoot me a text.

 

Alight so far it runs. I had some really odd tuning and sensor issues and may have found the culprit. The "sensors ground" on the 36pin connector was just cjilling in the loom not grounded. Got about 80-90mv with the key on through it, so now it is grounded.

I just added a 0-5volt oil pressure sender. Anyone know what pin on the 36pin is a 0-5v in. Would like to put it back together and I don't see it on the diagram Rev sent me. I made the wires for the GM 3 bar as well, but they will be left alone for now. Big dreams, but just need to fix the wonky tuning issues first.

 

I swapped out the ID1000's this weekend and put in Deatchwerks 350's. Idle is easier to get stable. I know the ID1000's are tunable, but I'm not good enough. Plus they were overkill.

I built some brackets to hold the ducting down on the sides of the radiator. I think the hood was lifting a little at highway speed on the driver side. This quick fix my be redone to a longer time solution.




I was getting some terrible heat soak problem and redid the intake. I think it may be too short, but the air temps have been better. Plus since it faces the other way the throttle scream is less annoying.

 

Car is back from the dyno and here is the numbers. Been so busy I haven't had time to fiddle with it, so broke down and had a shop tune it. So far doesn't drive so bad. We'll see as time tells and little stuff arises.

 

Pulling the motor out to fix the oil pan gasketand this came to mind.



1in socket to connect the reroute hose to the lower one and no leaks.

 

Sell to CR crowd as chrome plated JDM hose coupling?

 

Ha-ha yeah. Probably would sell. Chrome race radiator delete reroute. Shave all those pounds of radiater and water.

Speaking of radiator. Thinking of just using one fan on the FM shroud and making a piece to separate the sides of the shroud. Saves me 4lb is and so far, yes its winter, the second fan never turns on even back in sept.



Light fan on there. Figure I'll keep an eye on engine temps as the weather warms and I see more traffic.





Smaller fan is 3lb 6.8oz





Big fan is 4lb 12.8oz

 

I run a single Spal without a shroud on a CX Racing core and don't have any issues. NO AC and ducted.