I will add a lot of pics later. Just want to write up and add pics like chapter.

First thanks to Greg his Videos gave me comfort to start my Build. I drive my 1.6 NA Miata since April 2017. Before i owned an Bmw M135i which had a lot more power but obviously the Miata is just better in cornering.
Currently in the car:

• MS3X
• Bilstein coilovers

My next step is to finish my motor and put it in without the turbo first. I'm planning to fabricate a lot of that setup by myself.

I have all my engine parts here and the machine work is already done. I hope to finish the motor till February. Here my partslist picture from my assembly will follow.

Block:

• JE 84,5 ​​​​​​mm Piston
• K1 Rod
• ACL Bearings
• ARP Head and Main Studs
• Boundary Stage 2
• ATI Damper
• Cometic Headgasket

Head:

• Supertech heavy double
• Supertech 29mm (+1) exhaust valve
• Supertech 34mm (+1) intake valve
• Supertech shim under bucket
• Port & smoothing Head and polished combustion chamber

 

I hope you're not wasting money on all those parts into a 1.6

 

oh you got me wrong. Im Building a 1.8 VVT engine. Just the car has atm a 1.6 in it.

 

good

 

Here are some pics of my headwork before machining. Intake and exhaust runners are finished with 180 grid and the chamber is polished and matched by size.

 

That's a real good start. Any flow numbers?

 

Unfortunately i have no access to a flowbench. I tried to match all and used common sense to not take to much material out. But i think about building a diy flowbench maybe for my next rebuild.

 

Today i finished my valve cover and my main support plate.



I delete the pcv completely tapped both holes and put some an 6 fittings in. Later i will t them behind the cover and run to a catch can. But for know i capped them so no dirt can come in. Furthermore i enlarged the channel from exhaust side to the middle chamber. Now i will super clean it and put back the metal sheets. But i wont rtv them. I dont understand why they even are sealed in the first place.

 

Everything is measured cleaned and balanced. I only have to file my piston rings. The last set was to thick and scratchy. My new set hopefully comes tomorrow.
I will share my specs in the next days.

Here are some pics from balancing my rods and pistons. I 3D printed some stands to match small and big end wight on the rods.




I start my new engine harness right after. Want to datalog everything with some kind of can box in the engine bay. I will use some CBR coils for ignition. LS coils are disgustingly expensive here in Germany. CBR Coils and harness where around 60€. I just have to order an ignitor and some plugs.

 

PayPal us some money and we can send a set of coils over as "Schrott"

That's how we transferred parts in and out of Germany back during my e30 days. Hauptzollamt couldn't tell what was what.

 

Thank you for your response. First i will test the CBR Coils. They are already here so why not. But if i need them i will contact you. Are you from Germany?

 

Leider nicht!

SADFab brackets and wires are about 100 Euro + ship, about 40 more for usable coils.

 

I think i will do it later in my build. If it's ok for you i will pm you then.

Bottom end is done. I will post some pictures later. I am waiting for one last valve because i ground it to much.

What i need to swap:
- Sensors and pigtails
- Coolant reroute
- Clutch and flywheel

Im incertain which clutch to buy. I want to buy the kit for the BMW gearbox in the future. But before i want to fab all the manifold, exhaust and cooling stuff and drive the car. I dont have the money right now to buy all at once. And a fully build engine + bmw gearbox without any turbo is retarded
But on the other hand spending lots of money for a clutch which i will use half a year is not better.

 

Here are some pics from my bottom end. Wrapped it for protection

I have no real bolt stretch gauge so i tried to use my micrometer to get the job done. I had a repetition error of 0.01mm. Because of that i only stretched approximately 12mm. Which was about 72 Nm average with ARP loop on threads.

I will delete the hardlines on the oil / water heat exchanger and press some an fittings on.

 

Today i drilled my hardlines out to fit the an lines. On the Oil port i drilled one more to feed my turbo. Now i have to clean and paint.
Furthermore i milled my water returne housing. After the engine is in the care i can clock and weld the radiator fitting.

 

Finished my VC today. I used stainless steel wool on both outside baffles. On the pcv side i run rtv all the way around. On the other side i left one side without rtv. My theory is that oil gets trapped in that baffle after condensing if you run rtv all around. Then the only way out would be the port outside the cover.

 

I need your advice. I plan to buy the kmiata BMW transmission kit next winter but i want to drive my car this season. So i need some kind of flywheel / clutch on a budget.

What would you recommend? Buying a used stock flywheel change bearing and just run it. Or should i get some machine work done. Maybe just a cheap new one?

 

Im in the same boat as you I plan to finish my VVT build for next summer then BMW the next year. What I did was had the stock 1.8 flywheel resurfaced and the weight cut off. Cost me $150 I think. Then ill run the supermiata clutch for a year or so until i can afford the BMW/Getreg but i will tune for a conservative power level. say 300-350. Then crank that S*** up to 400+


Edit:

I should add that I am already on 15x9 wheels with 245/40r15 Hankook RS4's and plan to get another set of 15x10s with slicks

 

I'd get a 6speed NB transmission, a decent clutch (Flyin Miata Stage 2), a new lightweight flywheel and then just send it. Seriously, I doubt you really need a BMW swap. I have been contemplating going the same direction, but at 320 WHP / 405 WTQ my EFR'ed VVT NA is plenty fast, while still rocking the 6speed. I'm already spinning in second gear (dry). If I ran so much more power that a BMW tranny swap in evitable, I'd run into other issues: I'd need at least 225 tires (rare and expensive here) or better 245s (there are none in Europe), I'd need superwide wheels (which again aren't easy to find if you want to stay TÜV legal) and I'd break stuff all the time. Believe me, 320 WHP in a 1000kg car is pretty quick. I doubt you will really need more.

Just a thought.

 

Thank you. I think i will run the fm stage 2. And see if the 6 speed will hold. If i burn a lot i will upgrade.