TT3/ST3 NASA Rotrex Build - Lucy
#1
TT3/ST3 NASA Rotrex Build - Lucy
Introduction/Version 0(stock):
Hello everyone, I've been meaning to put a build thread together since starting my build 18 months ago. Well this morning’s coffee is extra strong, so here goes. I was in the high HP evo fam, and bought a miata to daily. Turns out a 100whp Miata is a lot more fun to drive(and less expensive) than a 600whp Evo.
The evo was sold and the rest is history, this thread serves to document said story. As all of the work has been done by me(except trans/clutch/diff) I aim to help forum members and internet trolls alike. If anyone has any questions please feel free to comment or PM. Here goes.. The pictures below was taken the day of purchase.
Hello everyone, I've been meaning to put a build thread together since starting my build 18 months ago. Well this morning’s coffee is extra strong, so here goes. I was in the high HP evo fam, and bought a miata to daily. Turns out a 100whp Miata is a lot more fun to drive(and less expensive) than a 600whp Evo.
The evo was sold and the rest is history, this thread serves to document said story. As all of the work has been done by me(except trans/clutch/diff) I aim to help forum members and internet trolls alike. If anyone has any questions please feel free to comment or PM. Here goes.. The pictures below was taken the day of purchase.
#2
Version 1
So the build began as a mild street setup. I went into "Version 1" on small budget. The following parts worked well together, and I would recommend this setup to anyone looking for a canyon-carver or very light track use. I went to laguna like this and had a blast understeering around every corner as the tires went to ****. All work performed by yours truly.
Version 1:
Tein Street Bassis
RB Tubular Front Sway Bar
Hard Dog M1 Sport
Advanti Storm S1 15x8
Yoko S-Drives 205/45(ish)
Water Temp Gauge
Hawk HP Plus Brake Pads
Napa Blank Rotors
Version 1:
Tein Street Bassis
RB Tubular Front Sway Bar
Hard Dog M1 Sport
Advanti Storm S1 15x8
Yoko S-Drives 205/45(ish)
Water Temp Gauge
Hawk HP Plus Brake Pads
Napa Blank Rotors
#3
Version 2
After some fun on the track I decided to step things up a bit. I went with a Rotrex supercharger as the turbo thing had been pretty played out with my Evo’s. I wanted something new.
Enter Rotrex:
Version 2:
Kraftwerks SC Kit
Xida Coilovers
949 End Links
OEM Hardtop
Roadster Sport 3 Catback exhaust
Megasquirt PnP 2
Bride VIOS 3 Racing Seat
Garage Star Seat Bracket
JE Built Transmission
OEM Torsen LSD
Poly Diff Bushings
ACT HD Clutch w/ light flywheel
Innovate WB O2
Grams 330cc Injectors
HF Fuel Pump
ARP gtc-200 w/risers
TDR Radical Splitter (garbage)
Hood Vents
Autokonexion V2 Fender Flares
Advanti Storm S1 15x9
Hankook RS3 (225/45)
Hard dog Hardcore Double Diagonal
Mishimoto Radiator
Mishimoto Dual Fans w/Shroud
Coolant Reroute
GV Front Lip
MSM Rear Sway Bar
Enter Rotrex:
Version 2:
Kraftwerks SC Kit
Xida Coilovers
949 End Links
OEM Hardtop
Roadster Sport 3 Catback exhaust
Megasquirt PnP 2
Bride VIOS 3 Racing Seat
Garage Star Seat Bracket
JE Built Transmission
OEM Torsen LSD
Poly Diff Bushings
ACT HD Clutch w/ light flywheel
Innovate WB O2
Grams 330cc Injectors
HF Fuel Pump
ARP gtc-200 w/risers
TDR Radical Splitter (garbage)
Hood Vents
Autokonexion V2 Fender Flares
Advanti Storm S1 15x9
Hankook RS3 (225/45)
Hard dog Hardcore Double Diagonal
Mishimoto Radiator
Mishimoto Dual Fans w/Shroud
Coolant Reroute
GV Front Lip
MSM Rear Sway Bar
#4
More on the Rotrex..
All in all I am very satisfied with the Kraftwerks kit. Everything is well put-together and the kit is 100% plug and play. The only gripe I have is their limited supply/R&D in regards to belt length. I started with no AC, with PS and it took a few tries to get the right belt. Later on in "Version 3" I deleted the PS too, so again with the belt chase.
Kit comes in this giant heavy box. Inside the box are boxes inside boxes inside... you get the point.. THIS IS NOT A BAD THING! Laying everything out on the table is somewhat intimidating, so properly labeled parts are well accepted.
The grams 330 injectors are simply not big enough. I was running at 140% IDC at only 9psi redline. Now, that's also considering I have every bolt-on known to man so that plays a factor in inefficiency. I have logs showing this if anyone is interested. THESE INJECTORS ARE NOW FOR SALE PLEASE PM IF INTERESTED.
HF Fuel Pump went in without incident.
Once the SC Bracket is in place, it's just a matter of bolting everything up, running oil line and IC tubing. Having a friend there to help with the piping saved me a big headache.
I'm going to conclude this post by saying the kit couldn't have been easier to setup and maintain. I have over ten track days with it, never once incident. This thing is driven to/from every event it's been in. Rock solid, unlike my old evo's... More to come with Version 3, I'll write it up tomorrow.
Kit comes in this giant heavy box. Inside the box are boxes inside boxes inside... you get the point.. THIS IS NOT A BAD THING! Laying everything out on the table is somewhat intimidating, so properly labeled parts are well accepted.
The grams 330 injectors are simply not big enough. I was running at 140% IDC at only 9psi redline. Now, that's also considering I have every bolt-on known to man so that plays a factor in inefficiency. I have logs showing this if anyone is interested. THESE INJECTORS ARE NOW FOR SALE PLEASE PM IF INTERESTED.
HF Fuel Pump went in without incident.
Once the SC Bracket is in place, it's just a matter of bolting everything up, running oil line and IC tubing. Having a friend there to help with the piping saved me a big headache.
I'm going to conclude this post by saying the kit couldn't have been easier to setup and maintain. I have over ten track days with it, never once incident. This thing is driven to/from every event it's been in. Rock solid, unlike my old evo's... More to come with Version 3, I'll write it up tomorrow.
Last edited by HomebrewYata; 04-02-2016 at 01:08 AM.
#7
Welcome aboard, looks good. I had one of the first gen Kraftwerks C30-74 kits on my '01 and drove it for 6 years. After some initial teething problems, it was rock solid over about 25 track days.
I used 550 EV14 injectors, your 330's are way too small yeah.
A big syringe and some silicone tubing makes changing the traction fluid and priming the fluid up to the rotrex pretty simple.
I used 550 EV14 injectors, your 330's are way too small yeah.
A big syringe and some silicone tubing makes changing the traction fluid and priming the fluid up to the rotrex pretty simple.
#8
Welcome, I too came from a high horsepower AWD car, I had a 700+whp Mazdaspeed 6 and purchased the Miata as a daily and quickly realized that I was having significantly more fun driving the Miata than I was in the MS6. Then I decided to go the turbo route in the Miata, still a work in progress for me. Glad to see you enjoying the boosted Miata life!
#9
Welcome aboard, looks good. I had one of the first gen Kraftwerks C30-74 kits on my '01 and drove it for 6 years. After some initial teething problems, it was rock solid over about 25 track days.
I used 550 EV14 injectors, your 330's are way too small yeah.
A big syringe and some silicone tubing makes changing the traction fluid and priming the fluid up to the rotrex pretty simple.
I used 550 EV14 injectors, your 330's are way too small yeah.
A big syringe and some silicone tubing makes changing the traction fluid and priming the fluid up to the rotrex pretty simple.
Quick question - how oftern did you change the rotrex fluid? Manual says like 50k street miles, I have approx 10k and 12ish track days on original fill-up. I will use the syringe method as the first time I ended up with fluids in my mouth
#10
The Crash(es)
After installing all of my "Version 2" parts, it was time to hit the track.
First track day went off without a hitch, I was in the sub 1:30's around Thunderhill West. My timing was VERY VERY retarded. This was mainly a shake-down event, given all of the new mods (see previous post for mod list). The car felt good, but definitely alot more power to be had.
And then, I hit a rock slide in Napa...
Two weeks later, a driver malfunction led to this little off road adventure...
The car then sat in my garage for the next 6 months, broken and bruised :( The vision for my car had been blurred, and I really didn't know how to proceed. It wasn't until April 2015 that I started working on her again. This brings me to "Version 3" Lucy.
First track day went off without a hitch, I was in the sub 1:30's around Thunderhill West. My timing was VERY VERY retarded. This was mainly a shake-down event, given all of the new mods (see previous post for mod list). The car felt good, but definitely alot more power to be had.
And then, I hit a rock slide in Napa...
Two weeks later, a driver malfunction led to this little off road adventure...
The car then sat in my garage for the next 6 months, broken and bruised :( The vision for my car had been blurred, and I really didn't know how to proceed. It wasn't until April 2015 that I started working on her again. This brings me to "Version 3" Lucy.
#15
Thanks for the question, and sorry I didn't specify. I believe that the hardware was weakened and/or loose from the crashes. A loose bolt put strain of the turnbuckle maybe? I was doing 110+ through a long sweeper and the wing simply collapsed. I'm fortunate that I noticed before it ripped completely off. I have since put in new hardware(sent from ARP without questions) and the wing is solid.
#16
You should count track miles as 20x street miles; this is what my engine oil wear rate was. For me this worked out to 2-2.4k street mile equivalence for a track day, so depending on how often you track you could possibly go two seasons. If you track frequently in hot weather, though, I'd probably go ahead and change it at the beginning of each season.
I came up with these intervals by getting my oil analyzed at Blackstone, and settled on 6 track days for it. I don't know where/how to get the traction fluid analyzed, though, so I don't have any hard data for wear intervals for it. I assume it is negatively impacted by extended high rpm hot running in the same way that my oil is.