1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1385001)
The fixed 0v and 5v really piss me off, cause seems like all the sensors I use are .5 or 4.5 like yours.
Also, I just used Dimitris' wiring instructions to add whatever I want on the DB37. So far 5v ref and tach out. Gotta ditch the little plastic grommet in the DB37 case pretty quickly. Headlights are a huge improvement. :party: Attachment 233253 |
:likecat: :party:
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Those headlights are very nice, makes me want to do some on my car.
Great job as usual Vlad! |
They do use fixed point as the HC9S12X doesn't have a floating point unit.
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1384143)
But you're also comparing this to the lights you're selling for over 2 grand so....
If you are installing HIDs or high end bulbs in your projectors, and you already have the headlight assembly apart, it is quite inexpensive to buy a clear lens and put it in yourself. Inexpensive being Clear Lenses - Components |
Would have been nice of you to mention that in your prior post :)
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Not much to report. It is really hard to road-tune a 300whp car when it's raining, and it has been raining pretty much nonstop since I finished the car. I'll probably give in and rent a few hours of Dynapack time to get everything fully dialed in. There's a small chance that I'll run out of fuel pump before my 425whp target, and a slightly larger chance that I'll slip the clutch (ACT XT + custom dual-material disc), but I have backup plans for both of those if they happen. The next big project is the T5 installation which should start around March.
I did throw a Sylfex Auxmod in the stock head unit on George's recommendation. Much better than the FM radio :) |
LOL you are a brave man trying to road tune that thing in the rain. Or insane. whichever :giggle:
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Practically impossible to even tune a 230 WHP car in the rain.
Excellent, the first Wednesday night drag is March 15th, maybe see you then. |
Originally Posted by sonofthehill
(Post 1388303)
Excellent, the first Wednesday night drag is March 15th, maybe see you then.
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No rules for trap speed? Be a dick and inch forward to start the time and then wait a few seconds. 15.0 @ 130 mph
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Local 400whp buddy managed 11.3 @ 132mph on slicks iirc. It's not easy to hit 10's in a Miata even with a low 10's trap speed.
You need a proper drag racin trans/rear/suspension setup to do that. these cars weren't made for drag racing after all lol |
Little known tidbit,
they said if I permanently mounted my hardtop, it is not a convertible. They said, and I quote "it's a hardtop." That is why I can still race under 13.5 with a Miata, I get asked all the time. There are extra rules for cars faster than 11 seconds though. Git that tranny on! |
in for both y'all blowin trannys
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Originally Posted by LownSlow616
(Post 1388317)
No rules for trap speed? Be a dick and inch forward to start the time and then wait a few seconds. 15.0 @ 130 mph
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1388321)
in for both y'all blowin trannys
That broken diff video playing baskeball doe! |
FWIW, Ryan Passey claimed in his build thread of his LFX track car that getting the V8R rear upper control arms is supposed to get rid of wheel hop, because the stock ones twist at high power levels.
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If the stock ones are twisting or spring deflecting that much, methinks you've got bigger problems.
Now the stock bushings in the stock arms allowing a lot of flex as compared to the poly that I'm sure V8R sends out with their upper control arms is a whole another story. |
I had a set of bronze retrofits and ES bushings for Acamas, but they ended up getting sold to a customer who needed them worse than I did. I have another batch of sleeves on the way and one set from that batch is earmarked for Acamas. I definitely get a little wheelhop even spinning tires from a roll.
And I am far more worried about the 6-speed than I am about the OSG. |
Just spherical all the things. V8R has made it too easy to do.
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