Originally Posted by Downmented
(Post 1367296)
4port EBCS really have no limit in comparison to the spring used, I personally ran roughly a 7lb spring and ran 41psi+ with my 4port ebcs, granted that was with EWG and not a Miata. Theyre golden, but for EWG when modulating boost they have a horrible flutter sound that drove me bananas.
Just my .02 https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5ab40e8d90.png |
I just confirmed it for myself
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...826fe0132e.png https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a1c5058c3e.png |
For an EWG it varies by brand, too.
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1367298)
Just confirming, but for a dual port internal wastegate the top and bottom ports should be swapped correct?
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1367298)
Just confirming, but for a dual port internal wastegate the top and bottom ports should be swapped correct?
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Originally Posted by afm
(Post 1367301)
For an EWG it varies by brand, too.
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1367298)
Just confirming, but for a dual port internal wastegate the top and bottom ports should be swapped correct?
http://www.full-race.com/store/image...content-6.jpg? |
Originally Posted by Downmented
Pictured is the Turbosmart ewg, but it still applies the same for the Tial EWGs, I cannot comment on others
Back to regularly scheduled IWG programming. |
BKR7EIXs in, pulls clean to 250kpa. Thanks gents :bigtu:
Next step is to get the intercooler swapped out (going back to the Precision 350hp I started with) and get my fuel system all dialed in (Fuelab 535 returnless, Hella SSR, DW300). A little marginal for my 400+whp target but I won't use that map often and I'd rather have more pass-through to the radiator. Also grabbed a SADfab D585 bracket/wires from Aidan and Sean. With all that, it will just be a little tweaking on the wastegate actuator and some dyno time to get it all dialed in. It's actually behaving a lot better at 20psi+ on 91 than I expected it to, so I'm excited to see what it ends up making on gas. I don't want more than 300whp normally, but I'll tune it as high as it wants to go on pump. Starting to wonder if I should pre-emptively jump to a GM 4-bar MAP sensor. :party: |
:party:
Im getting antsy to get my setup together. can't wait for dynos |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1367725)
get my fuel system all dialed in (Fuelab 535 returnless, Hella SSR, DW300)
Attachment 233268 Added a Fuelab 818-series filter to the mix with their fiberglass media inside for E85. Not sure what the OEMs use, but my suspicion is that it won't hold up to long-term E85 use. I had initially planned to plumb everything with EFI fittings and vinyl hose, but since the filter comes with -6AN male ports, it ended up being easier to use something else. I picked up a bunch of Earl's Vaporguard to plumb everything in, along with Russell adapters for the fuel pump hangar and OEM feed line. Fully E85 compatible (methanol, even), which suits the usage perfectly. The other benefit is that I'll be able to offer a PnP kit with all the lines cut to length at a fraction of the cost of doing everything in SS. I was hoping to get it all installed this week but the fuel hose won't arrive until next week, so I'll get the rest of the system wired and installed in the meantime. |
Grab a flyback diode for the pump too. 1N400X should work fine for the pump.
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1379691)
Grab a flyback diode for the pump too. 1N400X should work fine for the pump.
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1379691)
Grab a flyback diode for the pump too. 1N400X should work fine for the pump.
Originally Posted by Chiburbian
(Post 1379694)
Why? Im not questioning, I am ignorant.
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If he is using the Hella SSR to PWM the pump (which I'm assuming he is, otherwise you could just use a conventional relay) then you want a flyback diode.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode |
I am very much not an electrical engineer, but in layman's terms, I think this is what a flyback diode does?
Simplify the fuel pump circuit so that it's just a battery, a switch, and a fuel pump. When the switch is closed (on), current flows through the fuel pump and back to the battery. When you open the switch (turn it off), the pump wants to continue to draw current, so it tries to do it through the open switch. I assume this is bad because it causes damage to the switch, or it causes the fuel pump to react improperly to rapid inputs from the switch, or both. The flyback diode connects from the negative wire on the pump to the positive wire and allows the pump to draw from its own leftover voltage when the switch is opened, and that leftover current is dissipated through the diode and the resistance of the wire. Right/wrong? e: Is the diode for the relay (connecting between power/ground to relay), or for the pump (connecting between power/ground to pump)? |
Yes. The first paragraph of the linked wikipedia page lays it out really well.
Just make sure you point it the right way :D I never really got to play around much with PWM. Didn't have enough time on the dyno. I could make it do noises, but ran out of time before track season started. Will you be testing it with a returnless system? |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1379688)
I had planned on just running the occasional tank of E85 for hooning, but then they opened a Propel E85 pump 6 blocks from my new house. :party:
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1379688)
Added a Fuelab 818-series filter to the mix with their fiberglass media inside for E85. Not sure what the OEMs use, but my suspicion is that it won't hold up to long-term E85 use.
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1379688)
The other benefit is that I'll be able to offer a PnP kit with all the lines cut to length at a fraction of the cost of doing everything in SS.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1379713)
e: Is the diode for the relay (connecting between power/ground to relay), or for the pump (connecting between power/ground to pump)?
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flyback diode goes between the power/ground wires between the pump and the relay. We are protecting the relay from the pump.
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