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Originally Posted by bimmerboy
(Post 1637117)
If you start getting crank sensor faults at high rpm that result in limp mode, it’s because of the connector. I bought the kpower engine harness and a new Honda crank sensor. The aftermarket pins in the connector are just slightly too big. Solution for me was to depin and very very gently squish the female pin so that when it goes into the male pin, it kinda goes on hard. No more limp mode ever since. Got this info from 3/4 midget racers that use K24s. Kpower said the connector was good but I knew something wasn’t right. Confirmed from midget guys.
The Kpower harness looks pretty good otherwise! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f0204253a3.jpg |
You probably already know, but if you need replacement pins, connectors, etc… they are listed by engine and device (tps, ckp, iat) on ballenger.
I’ve bought from them multiple times and now only use there non-insulated butt connectors and shrink when splicing stuff together. https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...roducts_id/932 |
I've had this idea for years now and did this on Scuba Steve, but never took the time to crack the brake lines open to do so on Button.
I pulled the mounting bracket for the OEM prop valve off the master and flattened/re-shaped it before a fresh coat of paint and reinstallation. Now, the Wilwood valve can be bolted to it, which faces it forward and not perpendicular. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...595d109621.jpg |
On an other subject, did you notice any improvement in braking feel/consistency when adding the brake master support bracket?
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With the Sport calipers bled, a functional rolling chassis is now complete.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...26f0f2fff4.jpg This photo doesn't look much different to my previous version, but lots has happened with fuel system mockup, engine harness layout/confirmation, electrical grounds, starter and alternator cable mockups, throttle cable mockups, valve cover final install with all new gaskets in and out, etc. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c3d5fb3b96.jpg With the driveline all in, I got the CAE shifter installed as well. Their neon green 'RTV' was super fun with the hand lotion style pump applicator. LOL https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6d5d73e0cf.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b4c70c6925.jpg |
HE'S REALLY DOIN' IT, CHAT
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MMMM, drop down radiator brackets
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Originally Posted by cabowabo
(Post 1637552)
HE'S REALLY DOIN' IT, CHAT
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Originally Posted by doward
(Post 1637556)
It has taken far too long, and I'm getting antsy to drive it.
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install Exhaust
make brake booster line install firewall grommets install intake manifold make PCV line make intake mani coolant line install intake pipe + k20 IAT install k20 oil pressure switch install Radium fuel rail kit tire swap suspension nut and bolt. Its actually really close! Couple of weeks worth of progress pictured below, but 75% of the wiring is done, last bits remaining are the splices for the adaptor harness into the Miata gauge cluster and fuel pump. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6ddbcd32f0.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2c5f409a79.jpg I had grand plans to use this flex pipe in my "test pipe" connectro from KPower downpipe to Racing Beat NB Miata catback, but it was a bit too long, and the KPower downpipe has one in it already. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4de340cfac.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1893232a7c.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bf98654f3e.jpg ECU mounting idea: Rivnuts to accept some rubber isolators from McmasterCarr. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d6031529da.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5156db3f2b.jpg Most recent engine bay shot: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...451647e7b9.jpg |
The list is short now:
Fuel system throttle cable 5 more interior wires fenders tires alignment https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...775596194.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0059b2b72.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9c089a3fd.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...39d5e450c.jpeg |
Another parts issue identified and the lost week will mean I miss Gingerman this weekend. The harness I received has the upgraded/extra charge cl6 clips for ID1050x injectors and not OEM k24z3 injectors I ordered. They mailed me a full replacement harness as soon as I emailed them, but alas...
A handful of my friends have asked "How has the swap been?" or "Was it worth it?" (even though it doesn't even run yet, let alone that I havent driven it...) Its been a journey, and I am having a hard time getting upset with the quantity of mistakes on the shipment. These are huge parts lists with several variants, and I was in their batch that had an 8 month backorder, so I know they were absolutely swamped by the time they started shipping. I opted in to sitting out last season voluntarily, and my work travel winter/spring this year has been much higher volume than anticipated. So the legnth of time this has taken is only 60% the fault of the KPower backorder. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fe4420ad7c.jpg I did splurge on the Radium fuel rail, pulse damper and hardware kit. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8177ce76b1.jpg Intended side effect of rotating the radiator forward: My previous inlet ducting no longer fits. Unintended side effect of Kswap: My front subframe ledge mounted splitter is no longer viable. So, time for all new front aero; undertray/splitter, airdam, radiator inlet duct. This one is a big larger volume than my old one. 1.8 liter vs 2.4 liter, also, I plan to cover this one with wire mesh, so the actual inlet opening will be occluded more than the previous. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...63fc4356e4.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ef38af2512.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...585f067cbd.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cfdd655340.jpg I failed to snag a photo, but my first attempt was using the remnant of my old alumalite splitter mounted forward of the subframe with crude angle aluminum legs, but I will need more material to get it stiff/strong enough for my liking. I ended up cobbling together a "U" shaped spacer to drop the rear splitter mount below the oil pan in order to keep using the ledge on the front of the subframe. For whatever reason, that "U" did not allow the front of the undertray to line up with where the airdam landed vertically, so I reassembled it into a "Z" to move the splitter forward an extra inch and voila, good to go. This meant the undertray was held fore-aft by the subframe and I could retain my super lightweight 4 steel cable mounting method. Yes, due to class rules/modifiers, I have decided to delete the splitter blade. This is my previous plywood splitter with that blade chopped off. It is also 1" lower than it used to be, and the airdam is cut to hang 2" below this: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...59e2a99388.jpg New airdam arts and crafts: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f7f971d6e5.jpg The top is a bit bacon-y like it always has been. That is due to my rivnuts being set a bit too high in the bumper cover, where they start to point upwards and not purely forward. Some day I hope to convert to an NB2 bumper/lights and will correct that. Some day... https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b433d83cf1.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...434c1e2218.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d5d2978a89.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9bb3cf03df.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9fcc096f56.jpg Still waiting on a correct k24z3 IAT, a K20 oil pressure switch and a new throttle cable. Those should be the last items before I can turn the key... |
Once you drive it you will absolutely say it is worth it!
However, never again will I race car a Frankenstein harness. When pricing a full Haltech solution and full custom harness from bumper to bumper… the labor installed for the harness and hardware was $1500. I spent hours, days, weeks, waiting, troubleshooting, testing, praying, etc. |
Originally Posted by bimmerboy
(Post 1638635)
Once you drive it you will absolutely say it is worth it!
However, never again will I race car a Frankenstein harness. When pricing a full Haltech solution and full custom harness from bumper to bumper… the labor installed for the harness and hardware was $1500. I spent hours, days, weeks, waiting, troubleshooting, testing, praying, etc. |
Originally Posted by doward
(Post 1638633)
Another parts issue identified and the lost week will mean I miss Gingerman this weekend. The harness I received has the upgraded/extra charge cl6 clips for ID1050x injectors and not OEM k24z3 injectors I ordered. They mailed me a full replacement harness as soon as I emailed them, but alas...
If you find yourself with spare time, mark all your fasteners with some paint so that you can easily see when they start backing out. I just tightened up the bolts that hold the engine mounts to the subframe and at least one of them had backed off a good 10mm. I'd also recommend putting Locktite on the fuel rail bolts and intake manifold fasteners. You might want to keep some spare exhaust-to-head gaskets around - I seem to be burning through the standard perforated-metal ones pretty quickly, but I have stamped steel ones on-hand now for the next blow-out. I'll be interested to see how your cooling works - while I admit I'm not pushing my engine incredibly hard yet, I've had no heat issues with no ducting and just a standard Koyo radiator. I wouldn't be surprised if you end up with too much cooling power! |
My "Z" bracket to lower the splitter belowthe K oil pan:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5cff95347d.jpg This gives the undertray a bit of a reverse rake, which I don't love. The alternative is that the undertray would meet the airdam with little "underbite" of airdam hanging below the tray. I am not sure which is more effective for creating miniscule amounts of downforce, but chose this compromise to increase the survivability of the aero in small off-track or curb hoping excursions. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cffbbf55d3.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4184cc41d1.jpg Loaded with fluids, battery hooked up and test fired... https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d12fb69dee.jpg It cranks beautifully and makes oil pressure. However, not fuel pump priming with 'key on' and no fuel pressure arriving at the rail. I initially installed the Kpower jumper harness utilizing the OEM Miata fuel pump relay which didn't work. Second attempt using the KPower relay wired in to bypass the Miata relay also didn't work. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4cfab363c2.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6742ea9b57.jpg My belts expired the last time I had a running engine in the car, 2021. So they finally got upgraded/replaced. I also took the time to pull the seat out for a clean, and new belt anchor hardware. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e9b1aba2c7.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...94d40205b1.jpg List is still: Diag no-fuel issue bleed cluctch slave gear oil in transmission finish bleeding cooling system once it runs Dyno Chassis setup(confirm weight GAIN with kswap) test drive |
NASA ST5/TT5:
I think the 1.6 credit category tires finally have enough of a handicap to win almost anywhere in TT. ST still seems to be Hoosier's domain due to the heat soak and inability to choose when you push/conserve to mange tire heat due to mixed class traffic. Several folks have been setting TT5 records on the new Maxxis RC1R2 this year. However, I still have two sets of 225/45/15 R7 stickers to burn up, sell or trade... Constants of the build: +.3 mechanical throttle body -.5 having Aarms +0 airdam/wing only, no splitter, no BTM +0 allowed a control arm for camber adjustability now, but still using mod-free offsets, no ELBJs. What I think is now option A: 2403lbs 182 avg hrspwrs -.4 weight factor +.3 "small tire credit" running a 226mm template at >2400lbs. +1.6 Toyo RR/Maxxis RC1r2 Option B: 2450lbs 187avg whp -.3 weight factor +.3 "small tire credit" running a 226mm template at >2400lbs. +1.6 Toyo RR/Maxxis RC1r2 Option C: 2460lbs 164avg whp -3 weight factor +0 225/45/15 Hoosier R7 on 9.5/10" wheel |
Thanks for the pics of the splitter/oil pan dilemma... I'll be going through this myself, and helps to see what's going on. I'm using the tubular crossmember, so I'll have to fabricate a mount of some sort anyway...
Wondering if you considered making a cutout in the splitter so you could raise it and have it flush with the bottom of the oil pan, and just have a bracket at the crossmember on each side? |
I went back and forth on this splitter issue for a while... I had a "Z" bracket similar to Dan's that used the bolt holes for the steering rack (because I had a tubular subframe) with my A2 swap, and it was fine for a little over a year until it wasn't.. I hit a pretty nasty heave in the road that did some damage to the splitter and bracket and decided that I wanted a more flexible solution where I could adjust height. I ended up coming up with this solution with professional awesome quick release brackets mounted directly into the frame rail. You can see them in this below post on my build thread. So far, so good on this compared to the "Z" bracket... It's definitely a little heavier solution than alternatives, but figured it's worth sharing at the very least.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...1/#post1625991 |
Originally Posted by Padlock
(Post 1638807)
I ended up coming up with this solution with professional awesome quick release brackets mounted directly into the frame rail. You can see them in this below post on my build thread. So far, so good on this compared to the "Z" bracket... It's definitely a little heavier solution than alternatives, but figured it's worth sharing at the very least.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...1/#post1625991 I do have a full sheet of pre-covid priced alumalite on hand if/when I decide to move up to ST4 and build a splitter again. That will get mounted on some PA or similar brackets hung at bottom-of-subframe level with a "U" cut out to clear the pan, again like your solution. |
bit of catch-up to do....
Kpower harness situation still not corrected, so back to the ID1050x injectors I went. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...24978d35b9.jpg Had to address a couple wiring mistakes and a missing ground. During this phase I found/caught another discrepancy/difference in the two Kpower harnesses: one of them has a ground wire in the ignition/coil pack area that would presumably go to the OEM middle-of-the-fuel-rail valve cover bolt. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eb79c69cf1.jpg With the fuel pump ground trigger corrected, we now have fuel pressure! At this stage it did its first actual startup after a few days of crank no-fire. So, it RAN, and I drove it around the block once. However, the wiring instructions I blindly followed are intended for streetcars with keyed ignition switches and without race safety master kill switches, so I ended up bypassing my killswitch with the alternator wiring. That was an easy correction though. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d6bac31ff8.jpg leak evidence: I believe the hydraulic throw out bearing is leaking. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ef4b944af2.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3ed6a27079.jpg |
Photos of a running and driving Kswap:
-no cooling fan wired yet. Interior connection is wired through the miata body harness and is not coming on with the ECU's temp trigger. So I need to move it to a manual switch that i'll run in grid/etc. -Miata gauge cluster has since stopped working. No power/backlight/rpm/MIL/nothing. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...89c55ed125.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0d2cd1be8d.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bd63d93ac7.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fa69fefafb.jpg |
So off to the dyno we go!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bc14d022bc.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...580cdd2339.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...088e469a32.jpg We tried to do a 45mm restrictor plate but the throttle blade hit the plate. That would need a spacer to move the TB forward off the manifold flange to work. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8f522f6db6.jpg So my detune is simply adjusting the threaded OEM miata throttle cable pedal out to 60% TPS and some VTC changes. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d04ebaa5c3.jpg Best run on the high power map was 202whp/152tq and the detune is 177/147 which works out to a NASA avg of 167. This is on a Mustang Dyno, so i'll still need to do a compliance check on a DynoJet, and may need to pull a couple degrees out of the top of that detune map compensate for DynoJet vs Mustang figures. It runs, and it got 4.5 hours of thrashing on the dyno yesterday so I have some confidence it can survive a NASA weekend. Gonna go autocross it tomorrow night at the first of our local weeknight PAX-only challenge events and plan to drag it up to Mid Ohio later this month. I am having some FOMO regret for not splurging on a drive by wire setup and a nicer ECU and a dash display, but alas... |
Originally Posted by doward
(Post 1640318)
I am having some FOMO regret for not splurging on a drive by wire setup and a nicer ECU and a dash display, but alas...
...but it's nice seeing the car finally on the ground running! |
Nice update!
I have a similar-looking leak at the back of my engine. Are you actually losing hydraulic fluid? I'm 99% sure mine is engine oil, but without pulling the engine (ugh) I have no idea where it originates. I'm not losing clutch fluid. After seeing some more posts about stuck throttles, I'm even more glad I went with DBW. I guess I have more faith in software than hardware. I haven't gotten an official dyno of my car yet so I don't know if I'll have to detune, but that's a nice option to have in my pocket. |
Took it out to our local Wednesday night autocross PAX-only challenge. I learned that the new/recent XS_ "extreme street tire" classes still have a lowest min weight of 2330lb and well, my car is 2046lbs... So I ran it in XP for a really terrible PAX performance.
However, I set FTD by .01 second! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7c6d671ca6.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bc93082dc4.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ad106f196c.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b41f5b3eb4.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...31b30c6010.jpg |
I was going to comment about your airdam flapping around on video, but then scrolled down more and saw the photos. Dang that airdam goes low! Do you treat those as consumables?
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Sick! Nice driving! I like your gopro positioning, might have to steal that.
I always thought the airdam contacting the ground was bad, as it "aero locks", and doesn't let any flow under it eliminating the high speed air flow under the car which increases downforce. I have no idea what I'm talking about though. |
Splitter is too low, and not stable enough. Probably because of that "Z" bracket to lower it below the oil pan. My list this week before Mid Ohio w/NASA Great Lakes is to address that. That may mean shortening the airdam an inch or so. As it is, it only rubs the outer corners with body roll. There is no ground contact along the front under braking, so i'm not too worried about "stalling" the airflow under a not-flat bottom production car.
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Originally Posted by thebeerbaron
(Post 1640400)
Nice update!
I have a similar-looking leak at the back of my engine. Are you actually losing hydraulic fluid? I'm 99% sure mine is engine oil, but without pulling the engine (ugh) I have no idea where it originates. I'm not losing clutch fluid. I don't want to put this in writing even, but it hasn't leaked any oil at all, from anywhere. I guess its burning enough of it that it doesnt need to leak any. In other news.. DynoJet appt made for Friday morning on the way to NASA Mid Ohio. I'll be prepping 3 sets of wheels/tires depending on what it makes on the DJ. My primary goal is a sub 168 avg whp result on the detune map so I can run a set of my leftover 2019 contingency win sticker 225/45 R7s on 9.5" wheels. #finally Contingency #1 is a set of 205 R7s on 8" wheels to earn the 'small tire credit' to gain a couple WHP cushion if I end up at ~171ish. Contingency #2 is a set of 225/45 NT01 on 9" wheels that get me the 1.6 tire credit AND small tire credit. This would allow me to run my high power map, also assuming it lands near the Mustang dyno number of 202 peak. The ballast side of the equation would then be anywhere from 2450 to 2550lbs, 187 avg whp to 196 avg whp. I think going into 2024, i'll be focusing on a longer/torquier intake pipe, with a proper restrictor plate solution that gets me a flat-ish 185 avg whp. I know the 100lbs up to 2550lb gets me another .1 on the ratio, but I really dont think 225/45/15 RR/RC1 can handle 35 minute races at 2550lbs. So I aim to stay closer to the 2450 cutoff to earn the small tire credit. I know that 205/9" R7s were very unhappy doing so when I had the Keegan engine at 168whp/2450lbs Other prep: Ballast and fixing/raising my center net. 280lbs of ballast in the passenger seat does ‘things’: Passenger side is now heavier than drivers and I have it below 51% front. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...43ec081b4a.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...79a31ddc95.jpg I have a seatback brace in the mail and a fire suppression install underway. Both required for a 2023 logbook stamp for the last race weekend I plan to attend. Impeccable timing. |
Our experience with the RR's is that they cope with heat far better than the RC1. Rayon vs no Rayon basically. Hack for RC1 is to shave them to 3/32.
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https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9d6349c67c.jpg
I redid my rad inlet duct and took an inch off the forward opening to lift it up off the undertray. That allowed me to raise the undertray an inch. Had to get rid of the "Z" bracket and solid mount the undertray to some flattened angle stock. Not thrilled about this current mounting method, but it should get me through this weekend. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1f4ab20bf3.jpg 2019 contingency won 225/45 R7s are mounted up on my second set of 9.5" Freeforms. Not sure i'll light em off or not. Kinda depends on Friday's DynoJet session. There is a world where I target the TT4 Club Course record on the high power map, no ballast and these fresh 225s, but also a world where I can target the ST5 or TT5 Club course times on the detune map with all the ballast. Just depends on the DJ numbers... Second set of 2 HC 205 R7s on new 15x9 Ultragrams for practice/shakedown/maybe the whole weekend. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ba8fe54211.jpg Just a fire suppression system to finish up and then I can start loading! |
Out of curiosity, what material did you use to build the radiator ducting?
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Originally Posted by Downmented
(Post 1640612)
Out of curiosity, what material did you use to build the radiator ducting?
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Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1640617)
That's coroplast. Corrugated plastic sign board. You can get it from sign supply companies. 4x8 sheets. comes in 3,6 and 10mm. 10mm for undertrays, 3 or 6mm for ducting.
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Originally Posted by Downmented
(Post 1640622)
Thank you for not only answering the question I asked, but also the questions I didn't even think to ask!
https://motoiq.com/wrench-tips-17-el...-day-ductwork/ |
Car was all set, 2046lbs turned into 2540 with ~285lbs of ballast and 209lb suited driver.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e3ec6ef91b.jpg Off to a DynoJet we go https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...94ce6c6057.jpg From the Mustang dyno to the DynoJet, we gained ~4.5% and spun the roller to 184whp on the 60% TPS detune. That mathed out to 178 NASA AVG, which was too much jam, even with all my ballast and a full tank of gas. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...89b8335545.jpg So I yanked all the ballast out and classed up to TT4 and ST4. This would move me from the small bore "Lightning" rungroup with ST5/6, SE30, Spec944, SM, etc and into big bore "Thunder" with ST1/2/3, AI, SI, GTS and CMC. I joked throughout the weekend that I was driving an ST4.875 car, as it was otherwise legal for ST5 If I had a 205 R7 on an 8.5" wheel, or a 245 RC1/RR on the 9.5" wheels I ran. No matter, I was just happy to be there and to be shaking down the swap and turning laps. With the ballast yanked, but still with a full tank, it was 2286lbs. Detuned/restricted, pump gas honda motors dont burn much gas, and I didnt add any until midday sunday. Lightest I ever saw was 2256 once the tank was reading 1/4 full. ST4/TT4 classification was 2200lbs which allowed me to have 199 avg whp. So I was down 21 avg whp, down a splitter, down a bbk and 60-80lbs heavy all weekend for the class I was contesting. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1ba6a8cc95.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...31fd767890.jpg TT grid: I hovered between 10th and 13th overall all weekend, moving forward on the Club course(with chicane) Sunday. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f4b06091b9.jpg TT4.875 spec was enough to win TT4 both days: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...469bec342f.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...46c895ccda.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dc3e4afb3c.jpg Saturday night track walk: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...becc5bfcbf.jpg My runplan was to get several short quick sessions in, so I was planning to skip the long 35 minute Saturday ST race. I ended up doing both TT and Thunder warm up sessions and 2 of the 3 Saturday TT sessions. I DNF'd the shortest 25 minute race #2 on Sunday morning due to a worsening vibration that turned out to be rear driveshaft flange bolts. I also found the rear PPF bolts to be a bit loose. Race #3 Sunday afternoon was 30 minutes and I was a bit hesitant to jump from 2-3 hot lap TT/warm up sessions right into a ~25 minute straight race(due to formation lap and cooldown, we dont 'race' for the full 30) I started 5th in ST4 due to previous results and we had SU and GTS in front us in the same start wave. I got a great start and the row of ST4 cars in front of me left the middle of the track open. I found myself leading ST4 by turn 2 and was able to pedal most of the race and drive to a gap in my mirrors. Ron(275 whp, full aero STI) was able to close the gap with a fortunate yellow flag and then use my low power/highly susceptible to traffic car characteristics to his advantage and simply motored by me on the back straight with one lap to go. Literally nothing I could do about it. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e8114ab972.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e3bff3eaa6.jpg Takeaways from shakedown weekend: I miss the splitter. I miss the BBK. This engine vibrates like crazy and I may never get used to it. This engine loses power with oil temp like crazy and I need to address it. I did match/tie my Pro Course PB 1:36.9xx which I set in a GLTC race drafting an ASM S2000. The car at the time was ~100lbs lighter and had a splitter, on 205 R7/9" wheels. I also set a new Club Course PB with the 1:38.3, which is .5 under the TT5 record. If the rules don't change this offseason, that should be easy to get back in my name next spring. (yes, I was ~325lbs light for TT5 on this power map, but I have a plan to pull 6-8whp out and get a flatter curve which will class lower and not slow me down much.) I haven't driven this car since Oct 2021 and it felt so good to be back in it. |
Kudos! Nice to see someone with talent having success with the same formula I hope to follow.
A couple questions that are more about my car than yours and probably pretty noobish, but would appreciate your thoughts: Your car weighs 2046lbs with a full cage? I'm probably around there with only a back-half. I guess I should be finding places to take out weight. Do the 245/40 RC1/RR fit your fenders without flares? And do those want a 9.5 or 10 inch wheel? Thanks in advance |
Great results!
I'm shooting for TT4 with my K Swap, and I know I'll be down on power compared to the pointy end cars, but it's good to see a K Miata being competitive.
Originally Posted by thebeerbaron
our car weighs 2046lbs with a full cage? I'm probably around there with only a back-half. I guess I should be finding places to take out weight.
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Originally Posted by thebeerbaron
(Post 1640745)
Your car weighs 2046lbs with a full cage?
that weight is also including a dual pull Lifeline 2020 fire suppression system, back brace, dual nets, oem size battery in a heavy-on-purpose steel battery tray, etc. The car has been as light as 1980lbs without driver and fuel.
Originally Posted by thebeerbaron
(Post 1640745)
Do the 245/40 RC1/RR fit your fenders without flares? And do those want a 9.5 or 10 inch wheel?
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Originally Posted by Roda
(Post 1640747)
Great results!
I'm shooting for TT4 with my K Swap, and I know I'll be down on power compared to the pointy end cars, but it's good to see a K Miata being competitive. to be fair, the Club Course ST4 record is a 36.2, so I was over two seconds off pace from my PB. There IS a pretty clear path to the front IMO, but it’s is not exactly my current build. You’d want to plan for a splitter and no detune, potentially even e85 and some ballast to really find the certain breakpoints in the rules. |
Originally Posted by doward
(Post 1640744)
This engine vibrates like crazy and I may never get used to it.
This engine loses power with oil temp like crazy and I need to address it Now, every bolt that's not torqued gets safety wired or a dab of blue locktite. Intake and exhaust manifold bolts are the prime culprits for going AWOL, but even steering rack bolts have rattled themselves loose. Can you expand on what kind of power losses you were seeing with oil temps? |
Originally Posted by Wingman703
(Post 1640750)
Can you expand on what kind of power losses you were seeing with oil temps?
I do not have an oil temp gauge, and am relying on the stock miata coolant temp gauge being fed by the honda CLT/Hondata. The sound changed by the 3rd hot lap every single session, whether warm up, TT or in the race. Some of this could be the way my tuner did the VTC for the attempt at ~1krpm of flat power, but the FEELING of the engine was weird when it was hot. There is a hill coming up out of "Thunder Valley" at Mid Ohio that I stopped being able to accelerate up by the middle of the race. The car would just hold rpm. I was convinced I had spun a bearing or something and came in early before the checkered flag a couple times on Saturday only for the oil to be spotless and the engine perfectly happy again 45 mins later. |
I can say that's definitely not normal behavior. If you were DBW and using throttle blade position to detune I would blame that, but as you're still cable driven I'm not what sure to make of that.
For reference, I never had an issue running 20-25min sessions when N/A, even in the heat of the south east summer and 100° track temps. |
Originally Posted by Wingman703
(Post 1640755)
For reference, I never had an issue running 20-25min sessions when N/A, even in the heat of the south east summer and 100° track temps.
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Originally Posted by doward
(Post 1640908)
Do you have an oil cooler?
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I would look into the IAT heatsoaking and pulling timing.
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Perhaps need to measure oil temps? Oil in a modern engine isn't just for keeping bearings alive, but also used as the hydraulic fluid to control valve systems etc, so the temp going high (120C+) might not be a problem for the oil to support the bearings, but it might cause the kinematic viscosity to be outside of the range that the VVT controller can compensate for.
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I run a very similar intake setup on my NA k24z3, have not seen issues with IAT. No oil cooler. Running 39-40s on the pro course. Also have a buddy who runs a NB same intake setup no issues also, no oil cooler on his. Both of us are just doing HPDE though so not being tucked behind other cars for the most part.
You stopped by and checked out our cars at NASA great lakes mid o event last year if you remember. |
Its definitely not an IAT issue. There was no IAT drift on the 4 hour dyno day, but i do not have any data from the track. I have the headlight cut with a hood louver right over the filter for constant ambient airflow all around the intake/sensor. The plastic sensor is also mounted in the silicone elbow, so there should be way less heatsoak than if any if it was metal.
Ideally I would have run some datalogs, but my thinkpad doesn't like communicating to the ecu, so i couldnt even get in to turn on datalogging, let alone retrieve the data. I have most of the parts on hand to assemble an oil cooler, so i'm gonna do that for piece of mind anyways. |
I used the midday heat of august at Mid Ohio to pull the driver's side multicolor printed vinyl off the car on Sunday after the race.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2c79c26650.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f9fb10665b.jpg A few days later I yanked the white off the passenger side. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fe07c88736.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8221ccf291.jpg Its back in its primarily Emerald Green with CCP gelcoat, glossy black HDPE and 3M carbon vinyl now. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a25101a58d.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...064518f69b.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...24de057aed.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...037bab2789.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0d8322b1e6.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e1fd723c1f.jpg |
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Took the car to the new Eibach Meet, now called "The Honda Meet", as the organizer now works for Hyperco and no longer Eibach. :p
Some of the new livery is in progress. My neon pink/green wheels are now VHT Metallic Matte Gold. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6715c426f9.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...859a51e5ee.jpg |
New year. Gotta change up something to stay excited about it haha.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1a5ba9549.jpeg “Modelo Drive” Garage Vary replica from eBay. It’s an ST4/GLTC idea, as it’s super duper grey area for ST5, even with my ideas on how to cut/shave/airdam-away those “canards” |
Good shit. When are you putting a BP back in the car?
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Originally Posted by doward
(Post 1644945)
New year. Gotta change up something to stay excited about it haha.
(pic) “Modelo Drive” Garage Vary replica from eBay. It’s an ST4/GLTC idea, as it’s super duper grey area for ST5, even with my ideas on how to cut/shave/airdam-away those “canards” |
Originally Posted by doward
(Post 1644945)
New year. Gotta change up something to stay excited about it haha.
“Modelo Drive” Garage Vary replica from eBay. It’s an ST4/GLTC idea, as it’s super duper grey area for ST5, even with my ideas on how to cut/shave/airdam-away those “canards” |
Nothing wrong with sacrificing a little function for style. Some quick FG work will close that opening...
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Few things happening lately.
Got the bumper trimmed for radiator blockoffs, sanded, wiped with acetone, primed, sanded, wiped with acetone, painted 3 coats... Also cleaned the headlights to get the old orange vinyl off. That was also a multistep process of googone, plastic razor blade, glass cleaner, etc... only to then circle back wrap the gutted drivers side intake-light in more carbon vinyl. 55+f and sunny on friday for paint day. Snowed 3" overnight and was 45+ and sunny today again. Drove it around the block today! Wild. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8912bdf99a.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dac8f7b64f.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d1a049a645.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5ee41c40e2.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1aa43ef4fc.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a0f58b40e2.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7229b4987b.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...94fd0a2f8d.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...badc709370.jpg |
I got the holes drilled and physically mounted yesterday. I'm super happy with how its turning out. Cracked one of the ears by the drivers headlight even with a ton of clearancing with a rasp and trying not to force/bend it all into place.
It definitely needs support from underneath, so my splitter/undertray arrangement is gonna have to carry some weight from underneath/behind the bumper. Not as much tire shrouding as I hoped for, this is a 245/40 RT660 on 9.5”. I have ideas for spats if I make the jump to ST4, and am hopeful that my new splitter mounts make it really easy to add a different splitter/undertray under each bumper. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...01d29a11a1.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...769615a3fd.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...56a4f8dd9d.jpg |
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