Taifighter is building a Miata
#23
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WTF staff?? ^^
I removed my tow hooks just like yours.
There is a bracket on the canister that has like a 10mm bolt. I just loosened it and pushed that canister up, and over to the passenger side a little. That gave me more than enough room. The rubber is a good idea though, i just slapped mine on using two of the existing two hook bolts.
I think i'm going to buy the HF heat knife to cut the top tabs on the bumper off.
I was gonna hit you up and ask how you mounted yours when I saw that the core would hit the AC canister if mounted to the frame where the tow hooks used to be. Upon further investigation of your build thread, I concluded it had to mount below it and I was just missing a piece off the car.
But I lost your number when I got this new WinMo phone from work ��
I bet yours went on faster.
But I lost your number when I got this new WinMo phone from work ��
I bet yours went on faster.
There is a bracket on the canister that has like a 10mm bolt. I just loosened it and pushed that canister up, and over to the passenger side a little. That gave me more than enough room. The rubber is a good idea though, i just slapped mine on using two of the existing two hook bolts.
I think i'm going to buy the HF heat knife to cut the top tabs on the bumper off.
#28
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Location: Royal Oak Michigan
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Good to see my intercooler working out. I see you used some type of spacer? You can loosten the canister and lift it about 10mm. When I built these I actually had an NA with AC in the garage to test fit these. Looks great though! Thanks for the support.
#31
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Not that the way you did it won't work just fine but you'd get the IC to sit a little higher if you did this. I should have included these photos with the intercooler.
Take a marker and draw a line on the canister mount:
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/69876-taifighter-building-miata-picture002_zpse980ffe0.jpg?dateline=1363094235)
Then loosen the 10mm bolt on the mount, make sure it's free and the canister is broken loose from the clamp:
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/69877-taifighter-building-miata-picture001_zps8132b6ec.jpg?dateline=1363094235)
Then lift it up about 10-12mm and re-tighten:
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/69878-taifighter-building-miata-picture006_zps12e9a5ef.jpg?dateline=1363094235)
Should clear perfectly and you can get a nice flush mount with the mating surface on the tow hook mounting area. Should make the intercooler a little more ridged.
Take a marker and draw a line on the canister mount:
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/69876-taifighter-building-miata-picture002_zpse980ffe0.jpg?dateline=1363094235)
Then loosen the 10mm bolt on the mount, make sure it's free and the canister is broken loose from the clamp:
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/69877-taifighter-building-miata-picture001_zps8132b6ec.jpg?dateline=1363094235)
Then lift it up about 10-12mm and re-tighten:
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/69878-taifighter-building-miata-picture006_zps12e9a5ef.jpg?dateline=1363094235)
Should clear perfectly and you can get a nice flush mount with the mating surface on the tow hook mounting area. Should make the intercooler a little more ridged.
#35
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Good news: Innovate warrantied my mtx-l so it should be here soon. Yay.
Now I will hook up my dimming capabilities:
Also, you can take it from the back of the dimmer ****, same red/black wire goes there.
Pretty much anything in the interior that is backlit when the lights are on will have a red/black wire and a red wire going to it. The red/black is the switched +12, the red is the variable closure to ground through the dimmer ****. FYI- they're not using a rheostat, it's PWMed.
Now I will hook up my dimming capabilities:
Also, you can take it from the back of the dimmer ****, same red/black wire goes there.
Pretty much anything in the interior that is backlit when the lights are on will have a red/black wire and a red wire going to it. The red/black is the switched +12, the red is the variable closure to ground through the dimmer ****. FYI- they're not using a rheostat, it's PWMed.
Last edited by Taifighter; 03-17-2013 at 08:05 PM.
#37
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![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/build-threads-57/70168-taifighter-building-miata-big_vinyl.jpg?dateline=1363317934)
Perfect for doing away with the tan lower dash. I used it on my lower dash in V8 Miata to great success. Mine was black but scratched up.
Have also used it on typical faded silver-looking black seats - right on the fabric. Nice black color that didn't come off.
Nice build thread so far.
#40
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I'm not sure if it would work on carpet. One thing to try -and you can test it under the seat to see if it takes - at the grocery store or drug store they will sell little bottles of dye - commonly they will have RIT brand. It's really cheap and because it's a dye there is no build-up so it can't rub off. Try it under the seat first if you want to test it.
EDIT:
I just did a quick search and boom, there it is. Writeup on another forum.
Dying your carpet with Rit dye - DSM Forums
EDIT:
I just did a quick search and boom, there it is. Writeup on another forum.
Dying your carpet with Rit dye - DSM Forums