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I realize that you guys posted that for me, tis very tempting. Except that I can't read the instructions, they're upside down. Interesting to note that these 2 are the only real piston actuated valves I can find.
If either of the crappy valves will hold at least 30psi on the reference port without leaking, I ain't buying ****. So I will probably be buying that one soon.
Sad to say the meetup won't work. I won't be in PA till late december at the earliest. My entire family is going to upstate new york for a big thanksgiving fam-bam with cousins etc. Should be a good time. I can only make it there for a night or two, but it'll be worth it I think!
Originally Posted by sonofthehill
If either of the crappy valves will hold at least 30psi on the reference port without leaking, I ain't buying ****. So I will probably be buying that one soon.
Ok, my new BOV works great. Unfortunately one of my old short dented denso injector connectors seems to be acting up. I have the updated ones but never bothered to install them. Since I have to take the intake manifold apart, I might as well get started on the swap.
Poof! My work is 1/2 way done
I found it difficult to motivate this time, but I finally finished, no CEL'S yet. Just need to put the bumper back and put a few miles on.
Runs perfect, a little slappy, but seems appropriate when you look at the odometer.
Did I forget to mention that I was going to run PM's traction control for the off season.
50 miles to go, I was kinda hoping to do an injector upgrade and hold out for an MS4. But I probably won't be able to wait, definitely a boost reference FPR and pump upgrade. I plan to do that first, to see if I get a CEL or not, just planning for next time.
That electric tape is factory. The NGK wires too, all the hoes are PCV emissions type (squirters), I am 100% compliant, just like I tell folks at the track.
EO2K'S tech too, that guy blows donkey dicks. Well that's what I heard.
So I get there and everything is good, visual, emissions, running perfect and super clean. Of course, my fubared obd II connector doesn't connect. Uh, I think Vlad jinxed me.....
Ok ok, I know it wasn't Vlad, just had to say it once. This actually would have been fine and I would just bring it to a better tech, except he decided to see if his obd scanner would work and he reset the damn thing. 100 more miles, and I am gonna tighten up the sockets on that freakin' connector so idiot smog techs can still figure it out.
So I get there and everything is good, visual, emissions, running perfect and super clean. Of course, my fubared obd II connector doesn't connect. Uh, I think Vlad jinxed me.....
Ok ok, I know it wasn't Vlad, just had to say it once. This actually would have been fine and I would just bring it to a better tech, except he decided to see if his obd scanner would work and he reset the damn thing. 100 more miles, and I am gonna tighten up the sockets on that freakin' connector so idiot smog techs can still figure it out.
You don't need a hundred miles to set the monitors on an NB1. I regularly do it by driving 16 miles round-trip to work and back.
The stubborn one is the EVAP system monitor, because it'll only run that test with between 1/4 and 3/4 of a tank of gas.