Something more Imaginative?
#124
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-Zach
#125
If I were to do it again (which I might) I would probably use PTFE hose for the feed instead of the hardline ... vibrations+aluminum makes me a bit nervous. I'll run it on the street like this, however, if I ever get serious about track time I'll change it for ease of mind.
-Zach
-Zach
#126
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Double flare? Seems like a lot of the small aircraft builds are running single flare aluminum lines, though, maybe those suggesting it online are the ones whom end up scattered about a field on the evening news.
-Zach
#129
Back in 2011 VW did a recall on TDI's due to vibration cracking the aluminum high pressure fuel pump injector lines. The solution for them was rubber blocks that go between each hardline and valve cover. No one has had any issues since they "fixed" the issue.
Could be cheap insurance for a lot less work and time spent bending S.S. lines.
Just a thought for yah.
Could be cheap insurance for a lot less work and time spent bending S.S. lines.
Just a thought for yah.
#131
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In other news, my 949 shipment came. When the box says 'racing' you know it's good. Items purchased: RB .188" bar, 949 endlinks (which are nice BTW), and a Wilwood bias adjuster.
Just in case, I installed grease fittings on the the sway bar mounting brackets (yes, I drilled a through hole in the poly bushing).
And I finished up my part on the breather tank and will be taking it over to my beloved welder, John, today (who does all of Killer-B's oil pans - great guy).
Lightened and painted the mounting bracket.
...and, since designers don't to CAD drawings, the welder gets a pretty colored picture instead.
Now I'm just waiting for it to NOT be 9 degrees outside.
-Zach
#137
If you look at the picture of his bushings you'll see that the white metal brackets arent touching the table. If you bolted them to the car like this, they would squeeze the swaybar and cause it to bind when you tightened the bolts. So you can either run a washer ground into the shape of a D on each bolt to space the brackets away from the chassis or you can sand the bushing down to be the correct height. With the thousands of these bars that RB has sold like this you'd think they've have figured out the correct bushing.
#139
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As I near first start-up, I'm beginning to start the check list. A couple questions:
A) Is there a calculator for setting the base pressure of a 1:1 regulator for non-OEM injectors? I'm running 650cc EV-14's with a 190 pump and an Aeromotive 1:1 adjustable FPR. I know the OEM FPR is roughly 43-45 @ atmosphere but that's with 19Xcc (?) injectors. I know this involves some simple math but I doez not compute and cannot find the equation.
B) Is the non-AFM base map for the MSPNP-1 safe to run with an OPEN wastegate? DIY states the map is scaled for boost so I suspect I will be safe. I should note that I would simply be peg legging to car to my personal garage on the base map.
C) Is there an MT approved install for the LC-1 on a 1.6 miata? I've searched the **** out of this subject and I've read mixed suggestions. My current working assumption is to ground at the OEM point under the brake booster, es bueno?
D) Poly bushings - worth it? I'm a week away from painting and installing all my front end suspension bits and now would be the perfect time to install poly bushings. This said, my OEM bushings still look good and I'd rather put the money towards a Kirkey seat or door bars or beer . So, for a street/non-competitive track car -is it worth it?
Thanks in advance for any feedback. Love you guys
-Zach
A) Is there a calculator for setting the base pressure of a 1:1 regulator for non-OEM injectors? I'm running 650cc EV-14's with a 190 pump and an Aeromotive 1:1 adjustable FPR. I know the OEM FPR is roughly 43-45 @ atmosphere but that's with 19Xcc (?) injectors. I know this involves some simple math but I doez not compute and cannot find the equation.
B) Is the non-AFM base map for the MSPNP-1 safe to run with an OPEN wastegate? DIY states the map is scaled for boost so I suspect I will be safe. I should note that I would simply be peg legging to car to my personal garage on the base map.
C) Is there an MT approved install for the LC-1 on a 1.6 miata? I've searched the **** out of this subject and I've read mixed suggestions. My current working assumption is to ground at the OEM point under the brake booster, es bueno?
D) Poly bushings - worth it? I'm a week away from painting and installing all my front end suspension bits and now would be the perfect time to install poly bushings. This said, my OEM bushings still look good and I'd rather put the money towards a Kirkey seat or door bars or beer . So, for a street/non-competitive track car -is it worth it?
Thanks in advance for any feedback. Love you guys
-Zach