Something about GLTC/ST5/TT5
#1
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From: Statesville, NC
Something about GLTC/ST5/TT5
I have no idea where to start......
I've got this 99 sport, long line of auto-x pedigree. It also happens to be THE most nationally winning NB...... in STR
I've ran as the underdog for several years now, it was a lot of fun and don't regret it at all. Though, it is time to move the car on from that and onto track dayz, bro. Even though it can still be pretty....
Cookie-cutter mod list:
Mod-list:
99 Sport
Xida-S 700/400
15x9 6ULs/15x9 S1s/15x8 flat-outs
RB 1.25" front-sway, 14mm rear, 949 end-links
ES poly bushings motor mounts, diff, and control-arms
XP8 front / AX6 rear
Custom "cold-air" intake
RB header
Custom exhaust, high-flow cat, Borla resonator
DPtune ecu "reflash"
Harddog hardcore rollbar
Sparco pro2000, schroth 6-point
I've dreamed about getting out on the track for many years now. Finally got onto the track in my dad's 91(similar cookie-cutter build) last year, and as expected, hooked. Making this pipe-dream I've had a reality. So I have full intentions of running the car in TTE in the south-east. It usually seems like a decent field and I know a few guys that run as well.
I am currently shopping for a radiator, clutch/fly-wheel, and a steering wheel/QR/hub. RS3s on pre-order for street/practice tires and I've got an awesome local source for glently used SM7s. I figure I'll post up my thoughts on these parts I'm wanting to buy so you guize can help me mull over the decision with me.
I've got this 99 sport, long line of auto-x pedigree. It also happens to be THE most nationally winning NB...... in STR
I've ran as the underdog for several years now, it was a lot of fun and don't regret it at all. Though, it is time to move the car on from that and onto track dayz, bro. Even though it can still be pretty....
Cookie-cutter mod list:
Mod-list:
99 Sport
Xida-S 700/400
15x9 6ULs/15x9 S1s/15x8 flat-outs
RB 1.25" front-sway, 14mm rear, 949 end-links
ES poly bushings motor mounts, diff, and control-arms
XP8 front / AX6 rear
Custom "cold-air" intake
RB header
Custom exhaust, high-flow cat, Borla resonator
DPtune ecu "reflash"
Harddog hardcore rollbar
Sparco pro2000, schroth 6-point
I've dreamed about getting out on the track for many years now. Finally got onto the track in my dad's 91(similar cookie-cutter build) last year, and as expected, hooked. Making this pipe-dream I've had a reality. So I have full intentions of running the car in TTE in the south-east. It usually seems like a decent field and I know a few guys that run as well.
I am currently shopping for a radiator, clutch/fly-wheel, and a steering wheel/QR/hub. RS3s on pre-order for street/practice tires and I've got an awesome local source for glently used SM7s. I figure I'll post up my thoughts on these parts I'm wanting to buy so you guize can help me mull over the decision with me.
Last edited by sixshooter; 04-28-2015 at 11:59 AM.
#4
Really nice car. Seems like you have enough mods that it will be tough to stay in TTE.
Random thoughts:
1. Probably need to step up to XP10/XP8 at least.
2. BBKs are a waste of TT points for a normally aspirated car, but the reduced pad changes from a front BBK are nice.
3. With an AC delete, reroute, and air guide/undertray in good condition, you'll find the stock-size radiator gives plenty of cooling. If you want all-aluminum for durability, then stay small to save weight/bulk.
4. Increased power adds heat to your water (combustion inefficiency). Increased RPM adds heat to your oil (friction). You should consider an oil cooler.
5. Hardtop? I've been eyeballing the TCM lightweight unit.
6. I've got the NRG 2.5 QR. Love it.
7. You may have some relearning to do on driving style. I've noticed that heavy auto-X types (including podium guys from Lincoln) are willing to throw away a lot of momentum for weight transfer. That really bogs them down on track. Focus on that and use data!
Random thoughts:
1. Probably need to step up to XP10/XP8 at least.
2. BBKs are a waste of TT points for a normally aspirated car, but the reduced pad changes from a front BBK are nice.
3. With an AC delete, reroute, and air guide/undertray in good condition, you'll find the stock-size radiator gives plenty of cooling. If you want all-aluminum for durability, then stay small to save weight/bulk.
4. Increased power adds heat to your water (combustion inefficiency). Increased RPM adds heat to your oil (friction). You should consider an oil cooler.
5. Hardtop? I've been eyeballing the TCM lightweight unit.
6. I've got the NRG 2.5 QR. Love it.
7. You may have some relearning to do on driving style. I've noticed that heavy auto-X types (including podium guys from Lincoln) are willing to throw away a lot of momentum for weight transfer. That really bogs them down on track. Focus on that and use data!
#6
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From: Statesville, NC
I actually picked up a hardtop a few weeks ago. It's plastidipped an ugly sparkling brown, so I'm going to vinyl wrap it black. I'll also pull the soft top.
I plan on moving up to xp10s once the XP8s wear out. I've actually had issues with the ax6s eating rotors before the pad is gone, I get cheap Napa blanks so it's not a big issue. No plans of a bbk.
Right now, with 205 SM7s I'm at 17points, add another point for 205 R7s. I've pondered on using stock sways with 1000/500 springs. Then I would have 3 points for a ms3.
Thanks for tips!
I plan on moving up to xp10s once the XP8s wear out. I've actually had issues with the ax6s eating rotors before the pad is gone, I get cheap Napa blanks so it's not a big issue. No plans of a bbk.
Right now, with 205 SM7s I'm at 17points, add another point for 205 R7s. I've pondered on using stock sways with 1000/500 springs. Then I would have 3 points for a ms3.
Thanks for tips!
#8
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From: Statesville, NC
I was also surprised with the points difference. I still haven't read confirmation that the R7 is faster than the SM7.
I do have a spare, unmolested, stock ecu that I will run once I compete. The PO said dptune didn't really add much power, it's more for the extra rpm to be able to stay in 2nd gear on course lol.
Today I'm working on fitting the sparco into the car. The sparco brackets on the right side need about 1/4" of space, which a bfh can easily fix. Right now I'm curious if there shoulder bolsters will fit with the stock door panels.
I do have a spare, unmolested, stock ecu that I will run once I compete. The PO said dptune didn't really add much power, it's more for the extra rpm to be able to stay in 2nd gear on course lol.
Today I'm working on fitting the sparco into the car. The sparco brackets on the right side need about 1/4" of space, which a bfh can easily fix. Right now I'm curious if there shoulder bolsters will fit with the stock door panels.
#9
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Goleta, Southern California
Thinking about this bar and seat combo. Want to make sure I'll fit under the bar if I mount seat to floor. Do you have the hard top version of the bar (1.25" lower but 3" back) or the soft top only version? How tall are you? I'm 6'.
#10
Thread Starter
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From: Statesville, NC
My Schroth harness I ordered was on back-order for several weeks, finally came in last Thursday. I'll be drilling holes in the floor soon enough!
#13
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From: Statesville, NC
Actually I just did the champ tour at Dixie last weekend. I was driving a buddy's GT500 ESP car in SM. 550+rwhp, 335s squared, Strano adjusted.... holy shat. I've driven the car a few times, but it never gets old.
#15
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From: Statesville, NC
Bro, trusty rusty red could do a mean burnout with it's 95rwhp of fury!
Oh! I finally ordered a radiator, Koyo 36mm hyper V-core. Mainly because it's the same weight as stock and that fits CSP rules..... yeah I might run the car in CSP
Oh! I finally ordered a radiator, Koyo 36mm hyper V-core. Mainly because it's the same weight as stock and that fits CSP rules..... yeah I might run the car in CSP
#16
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From: Statesville, NC
The seat is WAY too close with my current bracket setup:
Going to pickup sparco sliders from a friend this weekend, should solve the problem here. I had to "massage" the trans tunnel a little bit to get the bracket to bolt all the way down. Hoping the sliders won't raise the seat too much, the lower the seat is the better.
Going to pickup sparco sliders from a friend this weekend, should solve the problem here. I had to "massage" the trans tunnel a little bit to get the bracket to bolt all the way down. Hoping the sliders won't raise the seat too much, the lower the seat is the better.
#17
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From: Statesville, NC
It is time to radiate! Koyo's newer hyper v-core 36mm
Should be the same weight as stock, cool like a 55mm, and skinny enough so I won't have any clearance issues with my big front bar.
I am considering some slim fans just for the shrouds that come with them. I autox'd a turbo 99 on Sunday and the owner noted how much his slim fans from FM improved his running temps on the interstate dropped after installing them. Something like that is basically the same cost of this radiator, so my temps will basically need to be failing for me to consider that
Should be the same weight as stock, cool like a 55mm, and skinny enough so I won't have any clearance issues with my big front bar.
I am considering some slim fans just for the shrouds that come with them. I autox'd a turbo 99 on Sunday and the owner noted how much his slim fans from FM improved his running temps on the interstate dropped after installing them. Something like that is basically the same cost of this radiator, so my temps will basically need to be failing for me to consider that
#19
The seat is WAY too close with my current bracket setup:
Going to pickup sparco sliders from a friend this weekend, should solve the problem here. I had to "massage" the trans tunnel a little bit to get the bracket to bolt all the way down. Hoping the sliders won't raise the seat too much, the lower the seat is the better.
Going to pickup sparco sliders from a friend this weekend, should solve the problem here. I had to "massage" the trans tunnel a little bit to get the bracket to bolt all the way down. Hoping the sliders won't raise the seat too much, the lower the seat is the better.