Do you have pics on what you did to your brackets? I am running Pro2000's like the OP, but on sliders.

 

I'm on sparco sliders now, I just can't use them because I have the seat bolt so low on the side-mount brackets. The levers don't have enough room to "unlock" the slider. Could you explain how you have yours mounted please?!

 

Oh, my new muffler came in yesterday, my car will sound a tad less horrible.

This was from Sunday, you can hear my car over my friend's e30 lol
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=830681373679301

 

I am not sure which sliders I am running on the car. They were installed with the seats when I got this car. I have a few pics, maybe someone can chime in. (sorry the pics are not the best)





My passenger seat is larger and was a PITA to bolt back in after I installed the new harness. My driver's seat is smaller (width) so it was a cake walk to install. The passenger's side does not have the wire that allow the seat to slide. You have to manually release each side, so i mounted it and slid it back manually. The driver's side has a DIY wire connecting both sliders. I installed the seat and then moved it back as far as possible.

 

First thing you can do is ditch the sliders. That's 1/2" right there. Kazspec makes a very good low profile seat mount.

I can't post my side mount setup. Because it's home made my welds are ugly and I'm a safety professional. I can post pictures of everything else lol. Let me grab a few shots..

 

Well I ditched the steel bracket and sparco sliders. I've made some extra holes in my sparco bracket so it fits the stock sliders, go figure it's actually 1/4" lower than the first setup I had AND I can actually adjust the seat.

Spent yesterday mocking up the locations for the eye-bolts. I've got the sub belts around 20 degrees and the lap belts around 60 degrees, both recommended by Schroth. I adjusted the sub belts short enough to put the cam-lock basically on my belly-button after I tighten the lap and shoulder belts. It seems comfortable enough, but I need to go for a decent drive to really figure it out.

The seat fits me pretty well(34" waist/5 11"/200lbs/26/M/SC/PST4SEXT), but my thunder thighs are an issue(toomanysquatz). The side bolsters squeeze my legs together(the opposite direction concealer wants em) and puts them ~1/4" from the wheel. So I can't fit my hand between the wheel and my legs.

Solution...... new wheel! I'm pretty set on: NRG short-hub, NRG 2.5 quick-release, and a Sparco 383, unless one of you fellas can convince me otherwise. I can get the 383 from a friend, it's very lightly used at a discounted rate and I really like it. So the hub and QR are up for debate.

 

There's a... 300mm wheel for sale on here i think. Good price, too.

The closed legs are a side effect i can live with in conjunction with that luscious booty from the squats.

 

oh merr gawd, I can feel everything!!! All the headache from my incompetence was almost worth it all



No more bracing and I can concentrate on what the car is doing a lot better. This is 10x better than the sparco spring I had in my old rusty 94..... mostly due to it's blown 220k bushings vs my ES bushings on this car..... and the whole chassis being superior in every way. Biggest thing I noticed with the harness, threshold braking and I don't get thrown forward

Definitely need to get the wheel soon...... tight right handers are pretty difficult, but it's manageable.

 

It was so nice out today, I went for a little drive after work.




I'm lucky enough to be less than 30min away from several different fun mountain roads

 

i have a pro ADV that has solid mounts. i blew out an axle in Charlotte and drove it home. the vibrations shook out my teeth.

 

Decisions.....

This: Sparco USA

or this: Sparco USA

I've already ordered the hub and QR, just need to pull the trigger on a wheel..... The 353 D-wheel will help with leg space and I'm wondering if it actually mounts higher than the 383. I've used a 383 before and I really liked it's thickness and the thumb "tabs" actually came in handy.

What do?

 

383 and a quick release?

we have the 383 in stock btw
Sparco 383 Competition Steering Wheel

 

Well, my engine is done, major rod-knock. Not sure about the head.

I've been chasing a very slight tapping noise for the past 6-7 months. Sounded like it was in the head, only happens while on throttle, started at ~2k rpm, didn't do it at idle or on decell. So checked my shim clearances and they were in tolerance. Compression test was good and leak down test was good. All of this was about 3 months ago.

So when the engine let go yesterday I was up in the mountains with some other miatas..... in front going fast.... came into a turn, downshifted into 4th and it brought it to 5k, down to 3rd and brought it to 3rd. Car felt great, tossed it into the turn and went WOT and immediately noticed a lack of power..... then heard knock. So I turned the engine off immediately lol.

Coasting down the mountains and caught some traffic for about 2-3 miles, which gave me time to ponder "I wonder if I can make it the 25 miles home." Traffic pulled over, still coasting and the dozen miatas behind me are probably think "wtf is he doing!" so I put my flashers on. Get to a hill, I start the engine and hear it knock, but only while giving it throttle. I cringe while babying it up the hill. I cut the engine off again going downhill and finally get to a large pull off. It was pretty cool that every single miata pulled over to make sure I was alright and then to also giggle at my annihilated engine. I ended up babying it home and am now pondering on what to do next.

 

We'd never leave someone in our group behind, hell I met both Steve and Corey by helping them on the side of the road when they had trouble on a run. Marcus did you drain the remaining oil yet to see how much you were missing?

 

I thought I mentioned that in my short story above, lol. I did drain the oil, only a few tiny pen-tip metal bits after running a magnet thru the drained oil. The engine obviously had some oil consumption issues.... I topped the oil off last Tuesday and managed to burn over a qt and a half by the time it spun the bearing(s). Lack of oil, a high G turn, and a really hard life annihilated that engine.

On a brighter note, a good friend of mine has a running 99 with 80k on it. Which is conveniently the same mileage as mine. Car is completely stock and the previous owners seemed to be easy on it. He's going to get compression numbers off the engine for me just in case and I'll likely buy that off of him for a good deal. He's planning on doing a k/j-swap into it, so it works out for the both of us.

My next dilemma is....... do I rebuild(if it's possible) my engine for more power for next year? Pistons, rods, headwork, etc but all of that will be damn near $4k or more

 

That sucks to hear man. Hope you get it all figured out. I think you should do a mild build and boost it! DUE IT, DOO IT, DEW IT!

 

$4k would probably almost buy the upcoming JR/949 Rotrex kit.

 

Just yank the old one and bring it over to my shop with a signed, blank check. I'll take care of everything from there.

 

I'd seriously take this offer if I lived back in Knoxville again. I've never been taught any engine assembly procedures..... just figured out things as I broke them

It's hard for me to justify several thousand dollars for maybe 20rwhp. It would honestly depend on how competitive I want to be in TT.

 

I think you would get a little more than 20hp if TNTUBA built your car....