Sergeant Slow
#341
Ahh, yeah, I read through your other thread regarding the lack of power. I just didn't chime in because I had no worthwhile information to add hahaha.
Yeah, that map I shared with you netted me 270whp on a Dynojet at 17psi. Middle of Summer too so I'm assuming IATs were high enough for the ECU to be pulling a bit of timing. We had a big *** fan running in front of the car but weren't spraying the intercooler down or anything.
Crazy to see how much you've learned in the last couple weeks regarding knock sounds, the timing map, VD, etc. I'm a little jealous of your educational journey regarding this stuff, as silly as that sounds haha. Thanks for keeping the threads updated with everything you've found.
Yeah, that map I shared with you netted me 270whp on a Dynojet at 17psi. Middle of Summer too so I'm assuming IATs were high enough for the ECU to be pulling a bit of timing. We had a big *** fan running in front of the car but weren't spraying the intercooler down or anything.
Crazy to see how much you've learned in the last couple weeks regarding knock sounds, the timing map, VD, etc. I'm a little jealous of your educational journey regarding this stuff, as silly as that sounds haha. Thanks for keeping the threads updated with everything you've found.
#342
No problem man, I'm glad somebody gets some benefit from my ramblings
I still can't figure out how you made that much power with that little timing. Maybe the Kraken stuff is just that good or your engine was a lot tighter than mine? Maybe my geriatric FM setup is just that bad?
I think I'm still peaking at 15+ PSI with 3-4 degrees more timing just to get 220 WHP.
I'd say it could be Virtual Dyno as well, but when I've played with parameters like frontal area and coefficient of drag they don't seem to have a huge impact. I know the weight is spot on since I just weighed the car. Roads are relatively flat and I've started using 3rd gear which seems to give more accurate and consistent data.
Similar compression ratio, similar/same octane, same turbo, similar boost levels, similar timing (arguably in my favor)...
Main differences I can think of are the mani/downpipe/intercooler, the dyno and the quality of the engine work. My compression test numbers seemed low, but not terrible and I have no idea how that gauge reads. Boost leak test didn't show any notable leaks. Haven't done a leakdown, but I did check my lash and made sure everything was within spec.
What gives?
I still can't figure out how you made that much power with that little timing. Maybe the Kraken stuff is just that good or your engine was a lot tighter than mine? Maybe my geriatric FM setup is just that bad?
I think I'm still peaking at 15+ PSI with 3-4 degrees more timing just to get 220 WHP.
I'd say it could be Virtual Dyno as well, but when I've played with parameters like frontal area and coefficient of drag they don't seem to have a huge impact. I know the weight is spot on since I just weighed the car. Roads are relatively flat and I've started using 3rd gear which seems to give more accurate and consistent data.
Similar compression ratio, similar/same octane, same turbo, similar boost levels, similar timing (arguably in my favor)...
Main differences I can think of are the mani/downpipe/intercooler, the dyno and the quality of the engine work. My compression test numbers seemed low, but not terrible and I have no idea how that gauge reads. Boost leak test didn't show any notable leaks. Haven't done a leakdown, but I did check my lash and made sure everything was within spec.
What gives?
#343
Yeah, maybe a combination of manifold, intercooler setup and the fact that my car was dyno'd at 900ft of elevation? I think VD compensates for elevation, though, no? My motor wasn't super tight by any means, I got a pretty decent amount of blowby even after break in. My compression numbers were all within 2-3 psi of 160 when I tested it after break in. However, I did that so long ago that I can't remember if that was with the motor cold, hot, or somewhere in between...
Also at some point, I found out that my trigger wheel was off and I had to run -5.0* of trigger offset to attain correct base timing. I set it to -5* when I first started the motor but my tuner thought it was a mistake and set it back to zero when I got the car dyno'd, so the whole boosted portion of the map was actually advanced 5* from what it said. I can't remember if I sent you my map before or after I figured that out and corrected everything.
Also at some point, I found out that my trigger wheel was off and I had to run -5.0* of trigger offset to attain correct base timing. I set it to -5* when I first started the motor but my tuner thought it was a mistake and set it back to zero when I got the car dyno'd, so the whole boosted portion of the map was actually advanced 5* from what it said. I can't remember if I sent you my map before or after I figured that out and corrected everything.
#345
Took a sick day yesterday and went for a drive. Mental health day FTW.
Really enjoying the Tecnas. I've almost stopped clenching over big dips in the road. I suspect it'll take a while before that reflex totally goes away, but so far so good.
Keen eyed viewers will note the MT.net sticker on the right cross bar through the window.
Really enjoying the Tecnas. I've almost stopped clenching over big dips in the road. I suspect it'll take a while before that reflex totally goes away, but so far so good.
Keen eyed viewers will note the MT.net sticker on the right cross bar through the window.
#348
I used to not care. I still don't really, but moving gave me a fresh chance to be slightly more anonymous. Not sure what that's worth when I use the same username across far too many platforms. At the end of the day it is publicly displayed info after all.
Honestly most of the appeal of removing the plate, or at least the numbers on it, is for a less busy and cluttered photo.
Honestly most of the appeal of removing the plate, or at least the numbers on it, is for a less busy and cluttered photo.
#350
https://www.miataturbo.net/insert-bs...decals-109681/
@shirtz If you send an envelope to sixshooter he can hook it up. That is, assuming they're not all spoken for.
@shirtz If you send an envelope to sixshooter he can hook it up. That is, assuming they're not all spoken for.
#351
Busy but great weekend!
Took 10th Raw of ~88 drivers on Saturday and 10th Raw again on Sunday. Pretty sure Sunday was my highest Pax placement ever as well, at 12th!
The car held up well. Ambient temperatures around 25 C (75 F). One of my friends who usually drives a 1.8 Turbo swapped VW Rabbit ended up codriving my car on Sunday due to cording his tires on Saturday. First time anyone else has driven the car since the engine rebuild. He ended up taking 3rd in class out of about 10 people, and we nearly got the 1st and 2nd spots.
The Tecna's felt really good. I ran them about 2/3 stiff for the weekend and didn't feel a need to change them. I swapped wheels and tires today though and saw that there was some contact between the wheels and springs/tophats. I don't believe this happened with the old setup, but there was a particularly hard transition on Sunday. One car punched a splitter rod through 3/4" plywood, and a low CRX bottomed out pretty brutally on a few runs.
For context, this occurred when running a 245/40R15 Falken RT660 on a 15x9 +35 Advanti Storm S1. Both Front's showed contact, while the rears were unscathed.
Pinch weld height on my street tires was set around 110-115 cm, and my race tires are about 9mm shorter in diameter, which I admit I forgot to take into consideration when setting the ride height. This was with sport springs.
So I might be looking into some small spacers (maybe 3 or 5mm?) to try and prevent that from happening in the future.
After we ended on Saturday we were hanging out discussing the day and somebody was talking about how they were discussing buying an NA from someone else in the club. He was still doing research and such, but seemed pretty serious about buying it. In the most serendipitous car buying experience I've ever seen, a tow truck with a red NA drives up 20 minutes later and tells us he wants to sell the car. Apparently he saw all the Miata's driving around earlier and decided it would be a good place to try and find a buyer. ~250K miles, 1.6, single owner car, running and driving. Definitely rough, but the guy was looking to build a pretty well prepped car anyway, so he didn't seem to care. Pinch welds and frame rails looked clean. A little bit of rust on the A pillar, but nothing major at first glance.
We'll see how good of a deal it was at $1200, but he bought it and was doing some test laps about 30 minutes after that tow truck pulled up. Worth it for the story alone.
Took 10th Raw of ~88 drivers on Saturday and 10th Raw again on Sunday. Pretty sure Sunday was my highest Pax placement ever as well, at 12th!
The car held up well. Ambient temperatures around 25 C (75 F). One of my friends who usually drives a 1.8 Turbo swapped VW Rabbit ended up codriving my car on Sunday due to cording his tires on Saturday. First time anyone else has driven the car since the engine rebuild. He ended up taking 3rd in class out of about 10 people, and we nearly got the 1st and 2nd spots.
The Tecna's felt really good. I ran them about 2/3 stiff for the weekend and didn't feel a need to change them. I swapped wheels and tires today though and saw that there was some contact between the wheels and springs/tophats. I don't believe this happened with the old setup, but there was a particularly hard transition on Sunday. One car punched a splitter rod through 3/4" plywood, and a low CRX bottomed out pretty brutally on a few runs.
For context, this occurred when running a 245/40R15 Falken RT660 on a 15x9 +35 Advanti Storm S1. Both Front's showed contact, while the rears were unscathed.
Pinch weld height on my street tires was set around 110-115 cm, and my race tires are about 9mm shorter in diameter, which I admit I forgot to take into consideration when setting the ride height. This was with sport springs.
So I might be looking into some small spacers (maybe 3 or 5mm?) to try and prevent that from happening in the future.
After we ended on Saturday we were hanging out discussing the day and somebody was talking about how they were discussing buying an NA from someone else in the club. He was still doing research and such, but seemed pretty serious about buying it. In the most serendipitous car buying experience I've ever seen, a tow truck with a red NA drives up 20 minutes later and tells us he wants to sell the car. Apparently he saw all the Miata's driving around earlier and decided it would be a good place to try and find a buyer. ~250K miles, 1.6, single owner car, running and driving. Definitely rough, but the guy was looking to build a pretty well prepped car anyway, so he didn't seem to care. Pinch welds and frame rails looked clean. A little bit of rust on the A pillar, but nothing major at first glance.
We'll see how good of a deal it was at $1200, but he bought it and was doing some test laps about 30 minutes after that tow truck pulled up. Worth it for the story alone.
#353
Thanks! I've got another event with the PCA next Sunday and it's looking like 3mm spacers can be here on Saturday, so I'll probably grab a set of those for the fronts and see what it looks like.
I really didn't think much of it when I threw on the race tires. I just figured they'd fit fine like they did with the last shocks. My fault for not checking the clearances closer, but oh well, nothing catastrophic, and the course last weekend was probably about the worst case compression these will ever see.
I really didn't think much of it when I threw on the race tires. I just figured they'd fit fine like they did with the last shocks. My fault for not checking the clearances closer, but oh well, nothing catastrophic, and the course last weekend was probably about the worst case compression these will ever see.
#354
The tire contact is normal for 9's on an NA/NB. Only 3.5" wider wheels than OEM
One of the reasons we dropped the offset on the 15x9 6UL to +32 from +36. But you're always going to have some rubbing unless you put flares on the car and push the wheels a few mm further out.
One of the reasons we dropped the offset on the 15x9 6UL to +32 from +36. But you're always going to have some rubbing unless you put flares on the car and push the wheels a few mm further out.
__________________
#355
Yo congrats on the result man! Glad the car's been continuing to rip for you.
That's incredible about the on-site sale of that NA haha. The seller had the title and everything on him and they did the whole deal right there?
Not that my feedback is totally needed after Emilio, but I got a similar amount of rub as you with the same wheel/tire setup (Dekagrams instead of S1s but still 15x9 +35). That was at 120mm pinch weld heights front and rear, slightly stiffer springs and shittier dampers lol.
That's incredible about the on-site sale of that NA haha. The seller had the title and everything on him and they did the whole deal right there?
Not that my feedback is totally needed after Emilio, but I got a similar amount of rub as you with the same wheel/tire setup (Dekagrams instead of S1s but still 15x9 +35). That was at 120mm pinch weld heights front and rear, slightly stiffer springs and shittier dampers lol.
#356
Thanks for the feedback on the springs guys. I did end up grabbing some 3mm spacers, so I'll play around with those and see how it looks. I'm not worried about the tire rub outside of the contact with the springs. I think 3mm should be enough to keep things from contacting, but not too much to push the tires into the fender.
Indeed. The tow truck driver had the title in hand. Our buddy held it up in disbelief right after the sale. Fingers crossed there isn't a bunch of rust under the carpets. It did look like it sat outside for a while with the top down.
Indeed. The tow truck driver had the title in hand. Our buddy held it up in disbelief right after the sale. Fingers crossed there isn't a bunch of rust under the carpets. It did look like it sat outside for a while with the top down.
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