thanks for the kind words gentlemen



exactly.

for tuning and general logging ill just hook up my laptop. i set that up in case an issue arises or if i got the sudden urge to log something i can just flip the switch right there on the spot and then patch in or pull the card next time its convenient.



and to be fair, all and some of it is relative. i dont have the funds to get the driveline and engine internals to run all of it. so some of it will be WG pressure, and all of it will be whatever it takes to get to just below stock 1.6 and 5 speed destruction levels of torque. probably 10-12psi.

 

 

finally got one of these! so now my trackmaster data will be useful


got everything painted and mounted up. against my better judgement, i painted the inner telescoping bar, needless to say it got sanded off and covered in graphite. once i got it all lined up it slides nicely. i made a pin, still need to put a d-ring and lanyard on it and drill a hole for the hitch clip.





shoulder straps are mounted much better now. but unfortunately i got a pull up and it has clearance issues in my seating position, it clears he co-owners position just fine since hes a little shorter than me. i need to call ultrashield and get a pull down lap belt.


i have enough tubing left to make 2 or 3 more of the sliding telescoping part if anyone wants some for their own diy brace.

 

im about the pull the trigger on a radiator, and i cant decide which one. id love to be a cheap bitch as usual, but ill spend the extra for something decent if its warranted.

im between the mishimoto, the koyo 37, or the cx racing and just noticed the mizu. im not spending over $300 so please dont recomend a $500 rad. power goals are 200-220rwtq, i live in phoenix az, no a/c, track use, and i will be doing a reroute soon. ill vent the hood if need be. any insight?

the sub belts wont adjust short enough to keep the quick adjuster from landing against the edge of the seat opening. no good. so i had to cut the sub belt mount up and relocate the bar to the backside of the square tubing. while i had the seat off today i noticed the rear mounts welded to the floor of the car are cracking right around the threaded insert. any ideas? i was just going to weld the crack and grind flush, but im sure itll just crack again if i do that. maybe not?

outer
20141011_102206_zpspb2y5x9p.jpg?t=1413065499


inner, not nearly as bad as the outer, but still cracked. its the line at about 11 oclock



finished the pin and made a lanyard out of some picture hanging wire covered in heatshrink

 

I think Emilio is selling a new cross flow. I'm not sure how much it is though. I'll try to find it. ThePass is selling his hood louvers through a vendor now if you want to go that route.

 

Found it. It's a hair over $300 though. They also sell koyo.
SuperMiata Crossflow aluminum radiator Miata 90-05

 

i guess i should email emilio, but is the inlet offset to the pass side for tb clearance? it appears that way in the pic, but its hard to tell without seeing it mounted.

if i do vents i was going to do the sixshooter style subie vents.

 

It's optimized for a reroute, but they sell a longer hose that will reach the moved location. Here is the link: https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...adiator-80120/

 

i guess i should have searched, that answered most of my questions. thanks monk.

its going to hurt the paypal account, but then i can be in the baller rad camp and be a smug ******* to all the chinese users.

 

supermiata cross flow ordered.

i capitalized on deezums intensive intercooler research for cheap asses and got what appears to be a "decent" ebay intercooler for $61

27"/22"x5.5"x2.5" with 2.25" in and out
20141016_160013_zpsdzeiuxgo.jpg?t=1413513387

turba-laterz


the welded on bolt bosses look like they machined by an walrus with parkinsons
who needs threads with a proper minor diamter when you can have this? and arnt chamfers supposed to remove burrs, not make more?


holy fuking feedrate


quickly slapped together a cheap welding cart


and as far as the cracked seat mounts, im going to cut them out and weld in new plates with nuts on the backside.

 

I'm actually impressed with that intercooler.
I don't think I've ever seen an ebay special with properly placed turbulators like that, looks like you got a killer deal

 

thats exactly why i got it. we have to thank deezums though as i think he bought and returned at least 2, prior to finding this gem, looking for decent turbulators. no **** given about the bosses, a tap or helicoil ill take care of the bad one. thats if i even use it as there are 6 to choose from. im going to try and do a pressure test and see how sealed it is for science.

for anyone that wants one they are sold by "zpeedstarz" on ebay.
i would post the listing but they are auctions that only run a few days, and the current one ends in an hour. they start at $61 and both dezzums and i had non problem being the only bidders.

so here is what should be a relatively permanent link to the store
Intercooler Piping items in 27x5.5x2.5 intercooler store on eBay!

 

Looks like the core from the CX racing one I have, the one that I cut the end tank up.

 

Heh, didn't notice the chewed up mounting bosses on my intercooler as well, was too excited about finding a intercooler useful for more than just blocking the radiator

I've saved a wheelbarrow intertube to test my stuff once its all plumbed up, for some reason testing the intercooler alone never crossed my mind. Good call

Glad you at least got what I got!

 

im getting the ms3 dialed in real nice. i worked on the ve table over the weekend and it runs soo much better. turned on accel enrichment, wonderful. still have a lot of fine tuning to do but it already runs much better than it did on the stock ecu.

one complaint/question. it still has the slight acceleration upon throttle lift after being wot for a moment. i originally attributed it to the afm making the car go from super reach to lean and picking up power the split second after throttle lift. but now no afm and it still does it. any ideas?

the latest iteration of my wiring diagram and schematic
Boomslangandconnectionsasbuilt_zpsf69139ab.png?t=1414031241

MS3boardasbuilt_zpsb4430374.png?t=1414031245

i enable launch/flat shift tonight, and it made me giddy. so i took a video.

 

Maybe you need to adjust overrun fuel cut settings? (My MS NOOB guess.) Does it do the post-lift acceleration if you disable the AE?

 

overrun fuel cut is off, and it did it before i enable AE. i drove it 70 miles today and i didnt notice it once, but it was mostly freeway to work, not much wot lifting going on. ive recently dialed in a few cells in that area in so im wondering if i just had to large of a change between cells. VEAL did leave me with a few "cliffs" on the 3d map that i smoothed last night.

i need to drive it some more and try to reproduce it consistently and log it.

my dirtbikes would do the exact same thing when i had to large of a main jet and a dialed in pilot and needle.

 

car ran great with the exception of some issues i am attributing to IAT heat soak. galvanized 24ga has been purchased. finally have decent data with a high sample rate external gps, although trackmaster wouldnt record to sd card so i lost most of my video.

ultrashield seat kicks ***, its so nice to not have to brace yourself in every turn and end up with a sore knee.

 

so i made a heat shield today and im not sure its going to be very effective. it does keep the IATs down a little but not nearly what i was hoping. the proper fix would just be to relocate, meh. it delays heatsoak by quite a bit, but once everything gets hot and sits, IATs still climb. i guess the next track day will tell.


fitting and triming







finished product








i thought maybe its scooping hot air from the rad a bit here


i probably wont put anymore effort into it since it will all change when i go turbo

 

It looks good, but you re probably right about scooping hot air. It should probably be closed off at the front.
It's may not worth it to you now, but here is Hornetball's ultimate baller DIY heat shield: