Ryfrog

Here is my tune. Feel free to make fun. I got my ignition table from a Brain post somewhere he claimed it was FM's map for an nb. The rest I've cobbled together from various places. It's a speedy Efi ecu fully up to date. I'm running 36-2 trigger wheel, flow force r8 cops, id1050x, vac referenced fpr set at 40psi with car off pump running. 92 octane fuel. 8.5:1 wisecos. 14lb spring gt3071r. Any other relevant info just ask. Any help appreciated.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Holy **** throw that tune in the proverbial garbage. And the ECU. But, if you're going to keep the ECU, try the attached changes. The break points, afr targets, and ignition advance were all pretty bad. targeting 16afr in cruise seems like a recipe for great MPG for a year, and an engine replacement after that. And why people insist on idle target RPM continuing to fall through the entire coolant range, even as you approach engine exploding temps, is beyond me. So that's flattened out at 950. Play around with idle targets, I've found 950 to be the smoothest with mazda comp mounts and others, but maybe your car is better with 1100, or 850, experiment.

Only thing I didn't really change was the VE table. I changed the break points to match the ignition/afr tables, but you'll need to tune it till it matches targets.

Verify your injector settings are correct, dwell is correct for R8 coils, then tune the VE. I spent all of 10 minutes on this, so I may have missed a setting or two, but at least now you won't explode.

Ryfrog

Curly you are continually the best now, and when I read here and everyone seems to say "just do what curly says and your stuff will be better". Thanks I'll be sure to use that and go from there. Now I just got to wait on that oil restrictor hopefully on the fast boat from China.

curly

iTrader: (25)

NP. That fuel table is going to be complete garbage, I can't reiterate that enough, so make sure to tune it.

Only other thing I forgot is max injector DC. Set that to 90, it's currently at 75, which is ridiculously low for your IDs.

Ryfrog

Yeah fuel table tuning will be the priority, but that doesn't work when your afr table is garbage. I set that at 75 last second to see if it would help it live longer to no avail but I'll put that back up to 90-95

Ryfrog

Okay so 2 days ago I got my oil restrictor for the turbo installed, loaded curly's tune, and started trying to get it to run. At first it would only run under full throttle and on 2 cylinders. Sounded and felt terrbile. Turned out I needed to be on semi-sequential injection(duh its a 90-93 and I didn't know they needed semi sequential). After that it ran better than it ever has. and that includes on the 1.6 on the old engine. I had all sorts of gremlins before, it would idle at like 2k+ rpm. it was idling at like 750 and i turned the screw to get it up around 950 and it sounded great. I noticed some leaks from various places so I fixed those and while I was in there I took out the o2 sensor for the wideband and cleaned it with carb cleaner and a blue rag. I put it all back together and it now doesn't idle down. The afr's jump around and the idle climbs higher and higher and hunts around but always above 2k sometimes above 3k. Considering the sensor is the only thing I messed with I'm thinking that I might have broke it/need a new sensor. Anyone know? I will attatch a datalog of it starting up, running, and then me shutting it off. Man I love making
$200 week long mistakes :/ I just want to drive my car.

Ryfrog

Another issue that I have that I am much less worried about but maybe someone will see it and know. I have 90 with 99 engine built and swapped in with r8cops and speeduino. I have the jumper soldered in my ecu and the resistor in my diagnostic box but I have no tach. Sometimes the tach will jump up to 3k inbetween running and turning the car off, but other than that it stays at 0, not sure why. It acts similarly but doesn't jump to 3k ever without the resistor.

curly

iTrader: (25)

It sounds like you're diagnosing like you don't have a standalone. You should always be looking at the laptop before making any physical changes. What DC was the idle valve at that made you adjust the bypass screw? What was your wideband doing that made you think you should clean the sensor? BTW o2 sensors are always black and sooty. Never clean them.

But maybe you are looking at the ECU and just not mentioning it, so apologies if you are. I do see the wideband going from 8 to 18 quickly, but rpm is also oscillating, so there's a chance it's a really rich/lean spot in the fuel map or similar.

For the high idle, start by setting your idle valve to 0, just to eliminate that, then start looking for intake manifold leaks post throttle body. If you have a 99 engine, is it a stock 99 intake manifold? If so, there is a large number of vacuum ports all over it, make sure they're all capped or otherwise plumbed.

Ryfrog

Okay so I thought that since oil went down my downpipe from the turbo before I had the restrictor that maybe I should clean it. Clearly I was wrong, but oh well. I don't know the duty cycle and realize I did that wrong as well, but it was idling fine multiple times before I messed with the sensor, now on startup it goes straight to 2k+. I also changed the oil return line out for a different one because it was leaking, but that shouldn't affect how it's running. I didn't touch anything else so I think it's got to be the sensor right? It idled great, now it won't its screaming. It's running on 4 and sounds okay but like shouldn't be 2500rpm and occilationg it wasn't doing that before.

Ryfrog

The manifold is a stock 99 manifold and throttle body. The vics is plumbed but not wired. All ports seem to be good i went over the diagram many times and looked around a bunch.

SimBa

Ryfrog, I'll try to look at that tune later since I'm not at my computer right now. Tunes.speeduino.com isn't perfect, but it's a pretty good website to upload tunes/logs for people to quickly check things.
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What iacv duty cycle are you idling at right now? I assume you're on open loop+idle advance?

SimBa

Your idle valve direction is reversed and you've got map sampling enabled below 2000 rpm. Stoich is also configured as 13.7 instead of 14.7. Looks like at least one of the tunes uploaded in this thread has timing fixed to 10 degrees as well.

Not sure if those are causing your issue, but I would fix all of that. Did this start as a tune from speedy loader? I'm surprised those are setup/enabled.

Ryfrog

Okay so this tune started from speedy loader, I uploaded it and took pictures of all the differences between what I had running my 1.6 and the speedy base map. I went through and changed things such as the idle control valve to reverse to be how they were before because if it was like that before I figured it needed to again. Curly then fixed quite a few things on it and after that it has since been changed back from fixed timing. It was locked so i could check it but it's good. I'll change it to stoich to 14.7. I started it up again last night and it idled better but still not as low and nice as that first day. I'll have to do some more playing with it for sure.

SimBa

One thing to note is that the NB cam trigger does not work with a 36-2 wheel on the current speeduino firmware. If you're not doing sequential spark or fuel you should be fine.

I created a thread on here about it. There is custom firmware that supports it which will hopefully be integrated into the main firmware soon.

What firmware are you on?

Ryfrog

I updated to whatever the latest was last week right before posting my tune that curly then fixed some and reposted. I read that thread a while back and that is what made me think to change to semi-sequential fuel and that fixed the bad running issues. After changing that setting it started up instantly, and idled at around 750. I adjusted the screw(I know this was wrong) until it was about 950 and it stayed there for a few minutes before I shut off. I restarted several times and it was always the same 950ish. Hopefully that firmware gets integrated soon because that would be technically better but for now it works.

curly

iTrader: (25)

I should post a foot note on all the tunes I try to help people out with, I assuming the shitty cheap ECUs everyone's flocking to and their firmware work as advertised, not always the case. There's also some base map tunes out there that have some seriously bad base settings I don't always remember to look at.

Are you saying it's fixed with what SimBa found?

SimBa

The way I'm reading it, he was already using that firmware.

I have mixed feelings on the Speeduino ECU's. I think the concept of the project is super cool. I've never tuned anything prior to my current car, and honestly the SpeedyEFI board has been pretty good overall. I've had a few issues with the hardware and firmware, but based on old forum posts it doesn't seem too different from the early days of megasquirt. For someone who wants a project and doesn't want to (or can't) spend more on a better ECU I think it's a good way to get started. My car startups, idles and drives. I swear it idles better than my stock Subaru most of the time.

Having said that, I'm interested to try out another ECU at this point. I'm basically out of IO at this point, and issues like the 36-2 support, no knock control capabilities, poor launch control capability (IMO), etc... are starting to make me feel like the ECU is holding me back with some of the finer tuning I want to do. Again, no experience with other platforms, so maybe I'm expecting too much out of them.

Sorry for the thread jack, at this point I should just write a summary/essay since I keep talking about it.

curly

iTrader: (25)

See I started with MS1, even when MS2s had been out for a few years. Had a MS1, MS1pnp, MS2pnp, MS3pro, and now a Link G4x pnp, all of them I considered "better" than the last. All this while tuning hundreds of other cars on MS/Link/Hydra/Speedy/etc. All the different ECUs got better as they came out, until the Speeduino. If your ECU is from 2014, I expect it to act like a 2014 ECU, and I'm fine with that. But it's 2024, I don't want a new ECU to be comparable to a 2005.

The one cheap ECU I liked was Flow Force's pnp unit. It was basically a very limited MS2, but was cheap, pnp, and worked great, especially for a 1.6 that wanted to free up some HP with a 1.8 swap and/or get rid of the AFM. Sadly I don't think they make it anymore, as pricing got too close to DIY's MS2pnp.

/threadjack (or not, I don't care)

SimBa

@Ryfrog I just got back to my laptop. You have AFR correction turned on with a 15 second delay. The delay time seems wrong, because the car idled longer than that before it appears to have kicked in, but I could be missing something. I'm guessing that's causing the oscillation. I'd try turning that off and seeing if it fixes the oscillations. After that try lowering the IACV duty cycle to get the idle to the RPM range you're looking for.

Ryfrog

Threadjack all you guys want It's good to learn. I found the sequential to semi sequential change from simbas old thread months ago when researching wiring my cop setup. Somehow i remembered that when the car wouldn't run the other day. My afr gauge seems to be doing better now. Maybe the carb cleaner just needed to burn off? I don't know but regardless it seems to be reading good now. I am not a good enough tuner yet to notice the differences to be honest. The tune I posted(garbage) was a base tune that I went through and changed the settings to work with my mods. Curly updated it. I then put it on and it ran bad. Then I remembered about the semi-sequential. Car ran great. Idled good. Then I cleaned afr, got terrible high idle. Yesterday and today with nothing changed we are back to good idles. With my DutyCycle at about 70 It idles around 1000. The higher the duty cycle the lower the idle from when I was just playing with it. Also if i switch iac to Normal from reverse it shoots up to about 2k and gradually climbs so I believe reverse is correct for my setup but I could be wrong. It is idling at about 10.0 so really really rich. I changed the soich to 14.7. I just took it out for its first drive to try and set rings. The car sputtered/bogged under accel a lot, and after rolling to a stop with clutch in it seems to die. It also started leaking oil in yet another new place so I will try to fix that up, and change the oil before messing with it again too much. That will be the first oil change and I am following FlyinMiata's engine break in guide.