thanks I was able to piece most of the table for free... only paid for the intake mani and glass.

 

Hmmm, I should take back that cat, it should be a turbo VC ....

Seriously, love your work there.

 

anyone know if you can splice into the oil pressure sender and OE water temp gauge sensor at the back of the head to feed data to aftermarket oil pressure/coolant temp gauges? Would like to keep the OEM ones in the gauges while also adding some aftermarket gauges with more accurate readings.

took a little break from turbo things to save up some money and do some planning for my move early next year. I'm going back to a bit of planning now though... also got a spare 1.6 engine that overheated and blew a head gasket from work, so im putting it on the engine stand to serve as a mock up motor for when I make my oil, water lines and do some wiring.

 

bought the turbo this morning at work, my card didn’t go through last night for some reason. gt2560r, .64 a/r and internal wastegate with 6-7psi actuator from atp turbo.

also bought all of the fittings for the oil and water feed/return. once i get these parts and the turbo i can throw it all together on the spare engine that’s on the stand and get hoses made to the lengths i need.

for sensors i picked up the 1/8 bsp to 1/8bsp with 1/8 npt adapter fitting to fit my oe pressure sender hole and run an aftermarket oil press. sensor while keeping my oe gauge functioning. oil temp i’m going to drill just above the drain plug and get a bung welded in there for oil temp sensor, as well as a bung for oil return on the hot side. aftermarket water temp will be ran off the supermiata qmax reroute at the back to one of the npt fittings. the front of the head will be capped and i’ll remove the tstat neck.

i’ve drawn a pretty useful diagram of the engine with a couple of different views for the purpose of planning most of my sensors and feeds/returns on my laptop using microsoft whiteboard. wish i still had my solidworks license to make 3d models of everything

 

the stand engine is a 1.6 long nose with a blown head gasket, it was swapped out of a car at the shop and i kept it to use as a mock up engine. and possibly build once i’m done with the turbo kit and put that on the car.





it was disgusting when i threw it on the stand and i’ve been slowly disassembling and cleaning it during my free time at work to have it as a clean engine to work on. i’m putting the valve cover on later today and next week i’ll start putting my kraken parts on the engine and the various fittings and turbo i’ve ordered as they come in

 

next step is ignition. i was so ready and looking forward to building my own ls2 coil kit with custom harness and bracket but with more recent searching i’ve seen those coils have become harder and more expensive to find. the r8 coils seem to be the more popular choice now and they’re considerably cheaper, plus no leads. i need to look more into it but i guess that’s what’s the ideal go to conversion is now

 

fedex is screwing me. the driver came to my house but didnt drop the turbo off yesterday. so i changed the drop off location to a walgreens pick up point down the street from me for today, but it might not get delivered today either.

once ive got it though, ill put on all the fittings i have here for it and get some hoses done to the adequate lengths and sizes i need for the oil and water. did everyone know the big rubber plug on the intake side of the block is a hose barb into the crankcase? for the oil return in GTX. why do people who don't want to tap into the pan use this as an oil return?

 

im a bit confused with injectors. 1.6 with a gt2560r with flex fuel (85), planning for 225-250whp. some 600cc should be fine for that, but i want some decent headroom as i plan to build an engine once im done with this turbo project and will be aiming for around 350whp with that. using an injector calculator and from what i've read, 1000cc injectors are what I need.

Flow Force and Injector Dynamics seem like the two choices so, other than the hefty $180 difference, is there anything of notable difference between the ID1050xds from 949racing and the FlowForce 960cc injectors?

 

taking advantage of supermiata’s Orange November sale to purchase my qmax reroute and supermiata radiator. however the website keeps crashing and/or not showing any products under the Orange November page. im guessing the servers are just over crowded right now… any other guesses @emilio700 @turbofan ?

I was going to pick up a set of the ID1050xds injectors as well, but im gunna go with the Flow Force 960cc instead. no one i’ve spoke with has brought up a significant reason for picking the IDs over the FF… and the price difference is real nice. unless there’s a competitive discount for the IDs or i find other info, the FF should do more than enough for me.

i think FedEx is finally delivering my turbo today, too

 

****'s busted bro

Having some serious technical difficulties this morning, hoping it's up and running shortly.

The product sales prices are accurate but the Orange November page isn't live yet. But if you can go in and shop, you'll see the sale price.

 

average day in the life over here.

no worries, ill get in when I get in. hopefully nothing's sold out by then or the site isn't showing in-stock items out of stock like what happened last year.

I haven't been able to load any page other than the home page and the orange november page, they all just load until they crash

 

finally got my Supermiata order placed after 3 hours of dead-end screens and crashed shopping carts can't wait to get these parts in.. i've been wanting the qmax reroute for a long time. Also just got email confirmation from FedEx that the turbo is delivered and ready for pick up at the drop-off point, and i'll likely be registering for my end-of-November track day tonight after work - Its a good day!

 

Thanks for being persistent!

 

It's been a very exciting week. My Supermiata order shipped out Tuesday, and I picked up my turbo on the way home from work that day.

I present to you all the heart of my build, a mighty GT2560R. to be specific, a Garrett GT2560R with Flanged Compressor Housing, T25 .64 A/R Internal Wastegate Turbine Housing, Standard 6-7psi Actuator from ATPturbo.com



I threw on the oil feed+return and water feed fittings I had waiting for it that night. Took the turbo and Kraken stuff that's been hiding in my closet for many months to work on Wednesday so I could start mocking up the stand engine. Here's the billet mixing manifold setup, too... I still haven't seen a single person on here or the Facebook groups with one of these, and it's not any type of purchase option on Kraken's website when you build out a turbo kit. Does anyone know if he just gave up on this project? I can't believe I would be the only person that ended up with one of these.



There's no orientation signage or installation directions, but I believe I had the hose on backward in this picture above. I thought the hose barb fitting should go on the metal elbow end of the hose to help orient it into the heater core hose (the elbow is bent toward the camera in this picture; tough to see). However, with the low mount mani and turbo installed, it became very hard and illogical to route the hose between the turbo and block wall with the straight end of the hose pointing it directly at the turbo. With the hose flipped and the metal elbow on the compressor side of the turbo, though, the elbow actually kinks the hose up perfectly between the turbo and block wall with about 10mm of clearance from either one. It fits so well that I have to assume it was designed like this. I flipped the hose in the pic below.





The mixing manifold is awesome. Hella bling, has a front and side-facing port for the rad hose on AC/Non AC cars (includes billet AN cap to plug the unused hose port), the braided hose with fittings, and a AN (i believe? AN4 maybe?) port with included 1/4" hose barb fitting for the turbo water return.

To round out the week's excitement, I registered for the Sebring track event on Black Friday. It'll be my first time driving Sebring, and likely my last (at least in the Miata) since I move out of Florida early next year. We're running the full course, so I'm happy to get the full Sebring experience in one event. I might get to trailer my car to the track and back too, depending on trailer space - i'm working the Turkey Trot Thanksgiving weekend with my work and we have to make several trips to the track since we always run 5+ cars for that race

 

Good luck, hope your fillings are well secured!

 

now to keep buying stuff... i gotta buy a water return fitting for the turbo and a AN water return fitting for the mixing manifold, and compressor housing in/out flanges.
things im currently stuck on and need to figure out before buying the parts above:

- since i plan on running AN lines for everything, i'll have to replace the water return hose barb that came with the kraken mixing manifold with a AN fitting, but I can't do that without figuring out the thread type of that port. I would believe it's AN because everything else is, but the fitting came installed on the mixing manifold with PTFE thread seal tape, which makes me believe it would be NPT instead (please don't be BSPT). I'll figure this out at work tomorrow.

- I want to run 3" intake piping. Don't know whether to get a 3" flange, or a 2.5" flange with a 3" to 2.5" silicone reducer elbow like @DNMakinson and @The Australian did in this short thread (posts #3 and #6). conflict is that i dont know if i'll have enough room for the 3" compressor flange + the 3" silicone elbow to the filter without hitting the mixing manifold and water return line which are directly in front of the turbo a few inches away (the perils of low mount turbo). I think it would work, but it's a tight space to eyeball so many things. Otherwise, 2.5" flange with 3"->2.5" silicone reducer elbow it is.

Here are the 2 flange kits i'll pick from:
3" inlet, 2" outlet: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264208467039
2.5" inlet, 2" outlet: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264568584026

Any thoughts or opinions? if anyone has a low mount kraken kit with no AC or PS, your opinion or experience would be great

 

I don’t know what the inlet flanges look like. Main thing is to have all diametral changes as gradual as possible The tapering elbow did that for me.

 

i’ve linked them here below

it’s just a flange with a pipe on the end. this is the 3”, inlet on the left, with the 2” outlet flange on the right.

 

one issue solved. sent Mike a message last night and had a response a few hours later. the fitting is M8x1.0



with the thread type cleared up, i bought the missing fittings. M14x1.5 -> AN4 for the turbo water return, AN4 -> M8x1.0 for the mixing manifold water return.



being a standard metric fitting, do you guys think i should use PTFE thread sealant tape on the fitting? his pre-installed fitting had tape on it, but non-tapered threads shouldn’t have any sealant.

he did post something about how the raw aluminum fittings he chose have no coating and need some type of lube coating in order to “lock” properly. any idea what he means by this?




​​​​​

 

no new updates as of now. Waiting for black Friday before I buy more things so I can get whatever savings I can find. fingers crossed that @nigelt has one so I can pick up injectors (FF960cc), pump (DW200) and coils (FF R8 Kit). also need to place a large order from @FAB for my oil p+t and water t+battery volt. gauges, flex fuel sensor, boost control solenoid, and a few other things, so i'll place that order end of November to see what black Friday sales pop up on his site.

​​​​​as far as this goes,
i pulled the fitting on Friday to double check that the threads were M8x1.0, and all of the PTFE tape had backed itself up and bunched up against the face of the fitting. guess that answers that question - no tape. Cheezit also wanted to examine the fitting, for cat purposes i suppose.