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Nope I didn't, lol. I'm kindof a low-level mind, not an engineer. I'll leave those measurements to the engineers @aidandj and @yank and I'll copy what they build, haha.
Must be. Hmm. Oh well, not particularly important, and I'm sure Andrew's manifold and DP is not the culprit. I'm mostly just curious.
I would attribute the slight drop in power at 6500+rpm to the VCTS manifold, personally. I'm sure I could pick up 15+whp by just bolting a Squaretop on, but then people would complain that the car made big power because of the IM and not because of the turbo setup.
Went to an autocross last weekend, and got the fastest street car time (though competition was pretty weak, so not a huge feat). Still had a ton of fun. Here's a raw video of one run (not nearly my best run, but fun to watch and listen to the car scoot around):
and, if you'd like to virtually step over to clubroadster for a moment... a little compilation put together by an amateur photographer who was there at the event.
After I got home I noticed I lost most of the fluid out of the clutch master cylinder, so it looks like I'll be needing a new one of those. Topped off for now but that's on the list of replacement.
There was also a big of seepage around where the brake master cylinder reservoir meets the master cylinder.
I'm thinking those things are getting cooked, so I cooked up a heat shield:
I'm pretty pleased with it overall, though curious to see how long it lasts. On one side it's attached to the valve cover, and on the other side it's attached to the chassis. There's a fair amount of flex in the chassis mount but we'll see how it holds up. Shockingly, it doesn't rattle while revving the engine or anything. Also, somehow my bellows hasn't cracked again. Just watch -- since it's driving me bonkers rubbing against the trans tunnel, it'll last forever. Whatever.
I also added something else to the family:
1998 GMC Sierra SLE 2WD. It's just the 305 V8 which was a bummer, but it's a one-owner, local owner, 165k truck in absolutely unbelievable condition, and I picked it up for a song here at work. I don't have to worry too much about the weight of the trailer to tow the Miata if I'm using this instead of the Sportwagen.
Speaking of which: If they offer me a decent buyback value on that thing this summer it's going bye bye.
Looking at possibly buying a house, in which case I'll sell the S2k, buy the house, THEN finally lease the ND.
Also: I'm going to San Diego in June. Will have to stop by GWR to check out their ND. Lots of fun stuff coming!
OHHHH I suppose I should update on the coil situation.
I was goofing around with the plug wires, and found that the #3 plug wire wouldn't actually clip onto the plug, so it could come right off the plug very very easily with no effort at all. I modified the top of the boot to slide down into the valve cover more easily, and ensured that all other cylinders were fitted well.
That was before the ORP day. Haven't had a single misfire since then, and I did one session at 'high' boost. I did not change any of the coils. I'm also still only at 14 psi boost. So next step.... big boost. Will play with that this week/weekend.
I am also very intrigued on how the whole VW buyout thing is going to work. I have a 2010 Jetta sedan and as long as the buyout is financially favorable, it is definitely gone and I will start DDing my 01 again.
AFR's and everything were looking good up above 220kpa. Went to check his fuel table and pull a bit, when I realized that it was only scaled to 190kpa...oops.
Used soviets table rescale tool to get new spark and fuel tables. Don't want to test the new spark table until the dyno because it was roughed in up top. Probably same with fuel. Stay low boost until we can dyno Ed.
single big fat spal. No issues with a single fan so far.
Specs or p/N?
I was thinking about ditching the dual FM shroud, or cutting it up or just going single fan to copy your oil cooler location. But I can't stack the cooler on top the shroud because it's too thick and I'd have to block off the old fan hole and a lot more hassle
Yesterday realized my battery light was coming on from time to time. MS was showing lots of fluctuations, and it showed as high as 17v + at 5k rpm. Grabbed an alternator out of a parts car from a local and swapped it out. Threw my back out on the process but got it done. No more fluctuating! About 14.8v at all RPMs. Win!
Now just gotta swap brake pads and wheels and I'm ready for Thursday's track day.
I just realized your new-to-you truck is almost exactly the same truck as my father-n-law's first truck. Same color, his was a '96 LT1 though. You will want to use synthetic in the differential if you are going to tow.