4000k mile update time and things have been going fabulously.

Time for a brake upgrade from the axxis ULTs on the front and ??? in the rear (bought the 1.8 setup lightly used 2 yrs ago). I'm going for the 949 stage 1 upgrade for 1.8 brakes and am researching Carbotech pads heavily since they're in the kit but still cannot quite decide.

Driving will be mostly street duty with some autox and maybe track in the near future. Leaning away from the 1521 since I want something more aggressive, but the AX6 doesn't sound the greatest from what I've read being nonlinear and such. This leads me to the XP8s which people have said have good streetability minus noise. Any experiences here? Hawk HP+ is in the back of my head if I don't do Carbotech.



Changed the oil out to t6 rotella and I seem to be burning less now! I think the Mobil 1 was not up to the task, especially with the heat before the new radiator was put in. Too slow of a loss for my *** to throw a rivet or another fix for this but need to get on it soon.

Will be dyno'ed finally in September at the VA meet!

Also, high miles FTW

 

Hawk HP+'s dust and squeal like a ****, but if you're ok with the noise and constantly having break dust on you're front wheels especially, then you will absolutely love them. They are a night and day difference from stock pads. Btw. I'll fill you in on my hectic life real soon.

 

When I ran Mobil 1 I had lifter tick and leaks galore. I switched to Rotella and the leaks lessened and I haven't heard lifter tick once in 15k miles. Love it

 

I'm mostly worried about noise, but I can compromise for braking ability. How do you like them for quick stops in the middle of winter when cold?

I must hear of these life details... it seems we are moving in opposite directions geographically.



Thanks for the input, this stuff does rock. I tried out the M1 instead of my usual Valvoline synth when I first installed the turbo since it was on sale with my oil filter but I won't be trying it again. T6 from here on out, especially with ma test pipe in place.

 

I'm going on the dyno this Saturday at the MT meat in VA finally! It will be pulls only, so no spark tuning. However, I'm wanting to make some tuning adjustments after looking at a local guy's spark map as provided in a brain-built MS. The MSPNP base map I have looks super conservative when I compared them. Brain has called his map conservative... Any suggestions on safe adjustments I can make for a little more powah? I've been doing lots of reading but I'm not about to go make some changes and fail to consider a difference here or there between setups and melt ****, so please take my build specs into consideration.


Mine is on top and Brain's provided map is on bottom.

 

Oh dear...

 

If you think that's bad (read: good), imagine a bunch of MT bros sequestered away in the heart of rural Georgia at a lake house for a weekend sleepover.


Any comments regarding the maps above on how to not be so retarded?

 

See you on the rollers Saturday!

 

I'd run brian's map and just pull a degree from it or two from boost rows. Its better because you shouldn't have same timing across the whole rpm range - it should increase towards redline and you're less likely to detonate in higher rpm ranges.

You get 3 pulls so you can do 1 pull with that map, 1 pull with -2* timing, etc.

 

Good to meet you Matt!

 

So, spill the beans.

 

I think it made close to 200, but never quite over it. He played with timing a bit and it made more power. I think it was good for a small turbo on a 1.6

 

Give me your address so I can mail out the intercooler first thing tomorrow. You can pay me whenever. That baby tooth needs to go.

Did you end up bumping a degree in the boost cells or just across the board? The stock DIY map is pretty tame.

 

Thanks for the video Vince! Nice to meet you, soviet, IcantDo55, and everyone else.

I am pretty happy with the results, but it has left me wanting to make several adjustments and left a sour taste in my mouth because of a few things. First, results: 183 whp @ 6400 and 162 wtq @ 4600 at 165 kPa. Starting the pull at 2800 RPM in 4th gave full boost by 3800.









Log is from the 2nd run.


The dip in the curve coincides with the log's drop in boost from 172 kPa to 160 then returning to 165, which doesn't happen on the street. The operator said its harder to hold boost on the dyno than on the street so I'd think it's safe to say you can extrapolate the peaks in the curve at 4600 and 5800 to eliminate the dip at 5300. I didn't play with boost at all since there was a sense of pressure on getting my runs in. Takes too long to adjust the MBC and I also haven't tuned enough in the higher cells so I planned on just optimizing the setting I was at. Didn't want to go too far and do something unsafe lol.

The second run included a bump of 2* in boost cells from the PnP map made to match the pattern of Brain's with increasing RPM. Didn't yield too much change. The log should read 18* not 16* which brings me to my next scientific conclusion... The IC is limiting my little hot air turbo. You can look at the delta T in the log and see over a 4th gear pull there's a significant change. So much so that what I thought was still reasonable timing (an extra degree from the second run, almost at Brain's timing settings) gave me some delicious detonation due to high IATs and we stopped the run at 5500. The curve was no different from the second run.

What a terrifying noise, especially when 3 hours from home. My pistons might resemble some melty mac-and-cheese a little more now lol. Hate to think what may have happened at higher/hotter boost. No adverse effects were noticed after and I made the drive home so time will tell. At least I know other sounds that I've heard in the past were not det! The 2nd run seemed smooth but maybe more minute det happened there too Basically, the log reads 16* because after the third run I returned the tune to the basemap settings as I had **** my pants and wanted to make it home.

Some positive notes however: These are about the numbers I was expecting. AFRs were good, if a bit rich so that makes me feel more fuzzy inside about my tuning abilities. Knowing that a larger IC would ghetto stomp the IATs for mo powah, which would also let me run the proper timing, and that boost didn't hold perfectly also makes me happy all things considered. I can probably expect 200 whp next time around with those issues fixed. Running higher boost might get me past it, or at least that's what I'll tell myself at night. I definitely learned a lot about the car and about timing, even if it was the hard way. Also, I got to see a 458 whp miata on the dyno.



To do list:
Josh's IC and streamlining hot side charge pipes, EBC for more consistent and better control, and some ducting.

 

They probably forgot to turn the fan on, again.

 

Seriously? How they forget something like that I will never know. Now I'm going to end up scouring through our videos to see if the "fan" is teetering and bouncing left and right indicating its running.

Either way, the IC bottleneck is going to be resolved soon and boost will thus go up. I'll get a virtual dyno posted that I captured the other day using 3rd for a baseline and observe changes from there. Then change brakes, EBC, possibly suspension, fix my passenger window cable, the list goes on. I got NAPA rotors, Axxis ULT pads, and 949 lines that are going on with some ATE fluid. I thought I had ULTs on, but they are some unheard of brand... something like VGX silent silver.

 

I'd rather have a little too much IC and loose a little psi and spool then run out of IC. That's why I got the #2 IC with my begi kit. I think its rated at 320 bhp which is ~50 more than I need, but the #1 was good for like 240 bhp which I'm definitely over. Let me know how you like the Axxis pads. I might try those next.

 

Ya I know, that's why I've got a larger heat exchanger sitting on my floor waiting to go in . My little baby tooth has served me well. It was a great start considering it came with pre-cut piping, couplers, and the TiAL bov for $130 all included! Winning early set up if you ask me. I will attempt a virtual dyno on the same day before and after IC upgrade. I'll be streamlining that twisty hotside piping too so hopefully that does something. Am excited.

 

I want to go 1.8 in the future.

BUT

There is a fully disassembled 1.6 for sale at $300 that includes new bearings, gaskets, rings, pumps, belts, a head with machine work, honed block, complete from oil pan to valve cover. Any comments on if its worth the time investment for a stronger rod rebuild as an intermediate solution? Halfway want it to have a refreshed, stronger backup motor for easy swap in whenever my original might go. Also would be good to learn miata motors more intimately. Ideally I want to do a stock piston, new rod refresh on a 1.8. All that's stopping me there is the higher motor cost, conversion kit cost, sourcing of 1.8 begi manifold, and then the downtime of having DP/exh made to fit the slight changes. I drive this car every day.

I really don't have my mind made up so any input is appreciated.

 

Also, been cannibalizing vipers' car for some lower air temp goodness. I hope to get quality comparison datalogs up in the next few weeks when I can install it with the pictured, more improved hotside IC routing. It will remove 3 90* bends right at the turbo outlet...












Got some other goodies too. PS, Axxis ULT pads have been out of stock for the past 1.5 months. Should finally have mine in and on the car by the end of November.