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I haven't painted it, but I do want to. One day I'm going to pull the trigger on a new paint job.
Yeah, for now, it's going to be get the EFR setup back on the road, go from there. Several upgrades are planned, but those will be staged in over time. Immediately, I want to go drive the car, and start racing it again.
Question: What max RPM would Manley Rods be good for? I called around and I'm told they are good for 600hp, but nobody has an RPM number.
I'm thinking Carillo would be better for RPM since they are lighter, and I think Carillo are good for 800hp. Problem is, nobody has the Carillo's in stock.
I got some maxpeeding rods but I'm hesitant to run them.
Did you look at the "Job" offering?
A WHOLE 13.50 per hour!!!
With NO benefits besides "cheaper" cheap parts...
Now Maxspeeding rods might be GREAT rods...
I don't know.
But if I was going to do what you are going to do.
I would NOT go cheap **** on the rods.
At a minimum, Manley or Eagle. I'm not sure there is much difference.
For "Pat" style stuff I'd pay extra for "Super Duty" rod bolts if there was an option for this.
I'd save or sell the rods you have for a normal 300hp build...
I cannot remember seeing a "top rpm" rating on a rod, any rod.
Usually they are rated for HP as the Maxspeeding rods are
250 hp per rod is their claim...
What are you planning to spin to?
What are your cam specs (if you'll share)?
How much money do you have in the rest of the engine and turbo system if a catastrophic failure occurs in the rod?
Mayhem lives in the red zone...
Last edited by technicalninja; 03-08-2021 at 10:04 PM.
Reason: Only the ninja knows...
Did you look at the "Job" offering?
A WHOLE 13.50 per hour!!!
With NO benefits besides "cheaper" cheap parts...
Now Maxspeeding rods might be GREAT rods...
I don't know.
But if I was going to do what you are going to do.
I would NOT go cheap **** on the rods.
At a minimum, Manley or Eagle. I'm not sure there is much difference.
For "Pat" style stuff I'd pay extra for "Super Duty" rod bolts if there was an option for this.
I'd save or sell the rods you have for a normal 300hp build...
I cannot remember seeing a "top rpm" rating on a rod, any rod.
Usually they are rated for HP as the Maxspeeding rods are
250 hp per rod is their claim...
What are you planning to spin to?
What are your cam specs (if you'll share)?
How much money do you have in the rest of the engine and turbo system if a catastrophic failure occurs in the rod?
Mayhem lives in the red zone...
I think I'm going to sell the maxpeeding rods and buy the Carillos. The biggest problem is I can't find any in stock. Called a few places today, and everyone is saying 7 week lead time and it could push to be more.
RPMs will probably be 8k, maybe up to 8500, likely never over 8500.
I'll have probably 4k in the bottom end if I go with the Carillos, 4k in the head.
You probably know this but if it's not paramount in your thoughts on this build it should be.
If you can keep turbine inlet pressure in exhaust manifold BELOW boost pressure in intake (you should be able to with that big EFR) then...
You can use BIG cam profiles which will keep the dynamic compression low with your 10.5/1 slugs.
This is why super chargers work so much better than turbos with large cam profiles.
The pressure difference ACROSS the head is the reason most turbo set-ups run whimpy cam profiles...
This difference even with a big (low restriction) turbo will at times be higher in the exhaust manifold (during mild acceleration and cruise)so mid range might suffer but...
You're leaving the tree at 7k+ and this "choked up" area will NOT be a problem for you.
Big single turbo
High compression
Big camshafts
Port nitrous (for when it is whimpy)
Tons of fueling capabilities (you have this already!)
Giant exhaust.
Powerglide.
Big slicks
And sadly for a Maita...
Dedicated solid axle rear end set up with competition attachment (4 link or some variant).
Your car might achieve "fastest 1/4 mile on stock block" status...
Maybe "wheelie bars" as well.
You might get close to "parachute" territory...
You still need to fix the AC...
Last edited by technicalninja; 03-09-2021 at 10:20 AM.
Reason: Only the ninja knows...
Hey Pat. You plan on using nitrous on that 10.5 motor and boost over 35-40 lbs? How much are you going to spray for getting turbo on the converter quickly and how much out the back (if at all)? If you are spraying very much down track at high boost on a 10 1/2 motor you may want to think about sleeving bores as well or maybe hard blok 1/2 or 3/4 fill.
I'd love some info on block filling. That could be a good option. I just haven't found much info about in online. Would like to see how people do it.
I don't have the cam specs yet... Ordered some Dec 1st, haven't received those after over 3 months! Ordered a set from another company today, will see if that works out. Once I actually have cams and specs, I'll share. I have no secrets, I post my results win or fail.
I looked into sleeves. Would have to be custom. I may call machine shop back, see if they'd consider going that route.
Oh yeah! I also ordered the Carillo H-beams today. So 7 week or more lead time for those.... So more waiting, which sucks. But I think it's for the best.
I'd love some info on block filling. That could be a good option. I just haven't found much info about in online. Would like to see how people do it.
Ive seen people do it on open-deck hondas, some of which will start breaking sleeves at as low as 400hp.
I cant imagine it would be an issue with the BP though. The thing is built like a brick **** house. Id think a girdle for the main caps would be a better investment before the sleeves would be.
I can tell you from personal experience. I split number 4 cylinder in about the middle of the bore about an inch or so crack a few years ago. I was experimenting with boost over 40psi (don't recall how much over LOL) with a slightly smaller turbo and barely enough fueling for that level so could have gone slightly lean. However the bore let go before the hg or piston so it can be a thing. This was a 84 mm block at around 8 1/2 static compression. The block ould have had a casting flaw, don't know as it was not sonic checked. If he plans to run over 40 psi and nitrous with 10.5 pistons I think he could be risking splitted a bore as well. Definitely should sonic check at a minimum.
They also have a "short" fill of 12.5 lbs for $99 such a deal!
Only purchase the full fill...
This can help big time. Needs to be done before machine work.
Newza is right!
Super clean the water jackets (oven cleaner and HP washer). Put the block perfectly level. New freeze plugs, Mix like concrete, pour it in to "your" level.
A V8 takes two fills at different times.
Works great. Most engines only need cooling at the top 1.5" of bore only.
On a BP you have to stop at the water pump hole which is only a 1/4 fill.
I've never seen anyone "angle" the fill but that might allow better filling of the BP.
"Angled" might work just fine.
If you have changed to electric pump then a deeper fill might be possible.
.
Sleeves are EXPENSIVE usually. They commonly end up machining the hole for the sleeve through to the water jackets!
This makes boring the holes "straight" vastly more difficult as the tool doesn't like boring 1/2 circumference holes
Sleeves require a MASTER machinist.
Been working here and there on a downpipe. It's coming together, though still needs some welding, bottom two pieces are just tach'd on for now. Plan to continue working on it this weekend.
Whatever rods were in my trackspeed build engine were rated to 8500 rpms at least. Be warned, running a BP that high requires the best motor oil you can get (VR1 synthetic) and very frequent oil changes. If you refuse to buy any oil nicer than T6 you should change it after every 60 seconds spent above 7500 rpms, I have the oil analysis to prove it.
Whatever rods were in my trackspeed build engine were rated to 8500 rpms at least. Be warned, running a BP that high requires the best motor oil you can get (VR1 synthetic) and very frequent oil changes. If you refuse to buy any oil nicer than T6 you should change it after every 60 seconds spent above 7500 rpms, I have the oil analysis to prove it.
I previously ran my car 10-20 times for about 7 seconds, then changed the oil. So not too far off your numbers, I know if I ran the car hard the oil felt like water after racing.
So on the VR1 Synthetic, where's the best place to buy that?
Ok, so worked on the car all day, made some progress but not a lot.
Things accomplished:
1. Cut off old mounting stuff for the rear mount turbo. That took a while to remove and clean up.
2. Cleaned the rear of the car underside a bit more.
3. Cut the exhaust cutout to mirror the one on the passenger side for dual exhaust.
4. installed 01 brace in rear of car.
5. Modified rear brace to make room for 3" exhaust.
6. Modified diff brackets to make room for 3" exhaust.
7. Mocked up muffler and tried to figure out bets way to run pipes around. The pipe that goes to the drivers side exit is going to suck....
8. Modified front subframe to make more room for downpipe.
9. Welded two more welds on the downpipe that were previously just tach'd.
I used a piece of clear plastic to copy the pattern from the passenger side exhaust cutout, and mirrored it on the other side to have a pattern. Worked out great.
Plan tomorrow is to work 1/2 a day. Weld on V-band to downpipe, then start making pipe to go to rear of car and snake through subframe/diff/brace area.
I previously ran my car 10-20 times for about 7 seconds, then changed the oil. So not too far off your numbers, I know if I ran the car hard the oil felt like water after racing.
So on the VR1 Synthetic, where's the best place to buy that?
I would get it from pep boys, Amazon, or summit.
There's a lot more to running that kind of rpm on a BP, you're gonna want better and stiffer valve springs than super tech, and better valves. My car valve lash closed up about 0.0005"/minute of time over 7500. I never took the head off to figure out why, I assume it was the valve deforming. Intake manifold studs breaks even with a brace, might make sense to try going to a bigger diameter while you have the head out. There's a reason I decided to motor swap.
03-07-2021, 04:41 PM
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