patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Leafy, I did look into that, thanks for that info I had not seen his videos before. While I expected to see what he showed, I would not of expected it to be as bad as he measured. Huh. I wonder if the effect is amplified since it's a diesel and not gas, but I dunno.

Having some thoughts over this. I would expect that the SC will limit power up top. Ideally it does seem it would be bypassed to let the turbo do all the work up top.

Also the SC kit did arrive. I briefly looked it over and it seemed ok.

Ted75zcar

iTrader: (2)

Compounding isn't the answer for peak hp if that is the goal. A twin screw is not great for a high hp compound. These are not revelations.

Newaza

Check out the lancia delta s4 group b rally car from the 80's.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lancia...g%20body%20FIA.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Update!

Got some motor parts purchased.

Wiseco 10.5:1 pistons
OP Gears for VVT Pump
Used VVT pump to put gets into, assuming it checks out good.
King Tri metal race bearings, .001 extra clearance
ARP Main studs

The above will go with my Maxpeeding Rods that I have.

Got a spare block and crank to use.

So for now, plan is to build this up and get a shortblock built. I may do a topend for it too, haven't decided yet.

Also, those cams I ordered 90 days ago, they still have not shipped! What a pain. I see one reason nobody runs CAT CAMS, they are almost impossible to acquire.

technicalninja

Couple of questions Pat
What fuel will you be running?
What are OP gears for the VVT pump? I was aware that Boundary Engineering sells the gears alone.
Did you find something better/cheaper/more A team?

So it looks like you are using budget H-beams for this build?
That's hard to believe but SO SO "Pat" like...

Why the move away from the old Eagles?
(That I almost got...)

I'm going to agree with the others...
I thought force feeding the turbo with the supercharger was the way to go...
Once the turbo was in it's "groove" the supercharger was removed from the equation and (if I read Ted75Zs remark properly) the parasitic loss of driving the supercharger was eliminated.
It sounded like Nitrous assist without the bottles and all the trouble with gas.
It basically was allowing a much larger turbo to have the initial boost rise of a very small one. It was expanding the powerband at the lower end BIG TIME. (this doesn't really matter at all in your drag strip environment)
I really thought Ted75Z had some excellent points and it opened a closed door in my mind.
I do not think that a compound system is necessary on an engine below 2.5l in displacement but you, Ted, Warpspeed, GC are all leaders in this field and are opening my eyes...

You folks are what makes MiataTurbo Great!

technicalninja

I still want to see your results with just a single good turbo (EFR) in the normal place with a standard build.
I think you would still kick ***.

Need to FIX that "broken A/C". You live in Houston!
I can help if needed...

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

E85 probably. May add meth injection down the road, we'll see, I already have a kit for that so wouldn't cost much to try.

Yeah it's the boundary gears I bought. Plan to install them in the pump I bought.

I'm looking at aluminum rods right now, considering selling the cheap rods and going with those. Dunno yet. Going to think about it. I'm not wild about the cheaper rods though they are probably fine for 600 hp or so.


Well you may see it with just the EFR. It's on the car right now at least.

I need to get the car going with this turbo, have some fun, get a spare motor built, and figure out what I want to try next. I have the SC so I want to try it out, see how that drives, evaluate its effects with the turbo. Even if I immediately determien it sucks and I change it, at least I'm making an informed decision and can then compare that result with the next change to show real improvement.

I keep looking at the xona rotor turbo, and I'm probably going to impulse buy it one day.

technicalninja

My formula for your car would be.
The EFR you already have.
A really good manifold, maybe Kraken if turbo will fit.
A 3.5" exhaust or maybe bigger.
and then...

A individual port wet nitrous injection set up, a GOOD one.
Both progressive add and progressive close.
Probably total system capability of 200-250 additional.

That will reduce 1/4 mile times better than any compounding system you can make.
You will have to overcome Nitrous liabilities and tuning will be tricky but you're Pat and anything is possible...
But YOU just might break the unibody this way...

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

I like all that ^

Except Id do dry nitrous direct port. Tune int he fuel with the ECU.

technicalninja

I'm using terms wrong again...
Most people think "wet" is with fuel and they are correct.
What I meant is injecting nitrous in a liquid form directly before the intake valves,
Massive cooling potential!
Where the extra fuel comes from doesn't matter to me.
Easier to supply the fuel through the normal injectors as the nitrous systems usually require lower fuel pressure at the "wet" nozzles than most FI systems provide and you end up with multiple fuel supply systems in the car.

technicalninja

Important safety tip...
Where the nitrous changes from liquid to gas is a CRITICAL point.
If it does it at the solenoid you can freeze the solenoid open which can lead to a "run-away" and you can no longer stop the injection.
This is how people "blow" the intake off a car.
Cheap spray bar systems can operate in this manner.
Good systems inject liquid nitrous and the phase change occurs in the air stream.
This cooling of the intake charge can effectively INCREASE "pre nitrous" intake flow in a NA application.
The incoming charge is cooled SO much that it "shrinks" and increases airflow across the throttle body BEFORE the nitrous injectors.

The "purge" valves everyone goes GAGA over were just simply a way for the driver to tell when he had cleared ALL of the gas from the lines so they NEED to be in the drivers sight line.
When you hit liquid the purge "fogs" and you know you are there...

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Parts came in! Pistons arrived, oil pump gears, arp mains, king bearings, and new exhaust manifold studs/nuts. Already have some rods. So pretty much got everything to do the bottom end now.

Also, finally, after 6 months, got my car to my shop!

Today I spent a few hours on it, mainly cleaning the underside. Didn't even finish that, though the back half is a lot cleaner than it was, but front still needs cleaning. That work goes slow and sucks.

Plan is to start building the exhaust soon!

technicalninja

Are you planning on having the mains "line bored" after installation of the studs?
I wonder how often this is really needed...
It's hard to imagine a change in fastener type would alter the line bore but I haven't had enough experience with this issue.
In for the science "Pat" style...

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Car is looking good Pat!
If the crank don't turn after the mains are all torqued, then I guess it will need a line bore, otherwise send it.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

The short block would be machined by a shop, likely the one that did my current short block. Last time they did ARP mains on the my current motor, they increased the torque spec with the new studs, which meant it probably distorts the bores. They said it did, and they line bored them to fix it. So probably do that again with the new motor.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Today I'm going to continue practicing welding stainless tubing. Tried a few different techniques yesterday. Got some learning to do! This was the best I got. The welds in the begging weren't that great. I thought I didn't have enough heat (and thus going too slow with the heat I was running). Tried faster with more heat and it looked better, but then tried slower with less heat (because why not) and that actually looked the best. This is the first time I've ever tried walking the cup, so plan to practice this and some other techniques today and see what I can do.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Happy to report: Fabrication! Screamer pipe done! Downpipe next.






























Sanded to get uniform finish.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

@patsmx5 I don't see any of your pictures from 5-Mar-2021 on.

good2go

iTrader: (2)

^^ Ditto, but it goes back to the 4th for me.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the heads up, I didn't realize they were not working. I just copy/pasted and it worked (on my screen) and I thought I found an easier way to post pics. But I see now, only works on the machine I did the copy/paste, shows now pics on my phone.

New pics in a sec!