Pat's Ebay Turbo Compound Boost Build
#1146
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Probably a solid 400whp/330 torque. I ran a 500whp Bmw 3 series N54 and beat it by over 1/2 a second and 4mph. I've run the car with more power than this before on the street, but not at the track. It honestly scared the crap out of me when I hit 2nd, after that I parked and didn't run the car again. Hopefully will look at it tonight and see if I can find anything obviously broken or damaged.
#1148
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I just inspected the underside of the car. Cracked bushings on passenger side wheel are visible. Didn't see any cracks in the subframe though, and I looked it over pretty well. I think I'm going to do poly bushings and beef up these control arms for now. The V8R control arms looks nice, but sweet jesus they are pricey! I'm not sure of the condition of wheel bearings or ball joints. If those are cheap I will replace those as well, or if they are damaged. Not sure those can be inspected without disassembly though. If cheap I'll just buy them and change while it's all apart. I have read all kinds of post about every hub/bearings sucking, so no idea what to buy in that regard. Mine are stock mazda parts right now.
#1151
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Wheel bearings and ball joints are easily inspected as part of a basic inspection. Grab the wheel top/bottom then side/side and rock it. Any play is either bushing (unlikely on miatas) or ball joints. If it's both, you either have multiple issues or it's wheel bearings.
#1152
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I will do that and see what I find, thanks for the tip!
#1153
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But if I actually pull/push hard on each wheel left/right, I can move them a total range of 2-3 degrees with my hands. With my knees, I can bend the wheels back and forth a total range of probably 5 degrees if not more. Scary they move that much with just me pushing on them. It's obvious that the bushings flex a bunch on both sides, and the wheel bearing on drivers side is very worn.
I spent a few hours reading all about bushings. It seems Sean has a good setup, but doesn't have a source for his bronze bearing/bushings at the moment and no ETA on when that will happen. And poly bushings will be stiff, but stick bad because poly on steel is not a good bearing.
What should I do? Run poly bushing and buy the bronze bearings once available? Also, what wheel bearings should I buy? I just daily drive it and drag race, I don't do 30 minute laps.
#1154
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I'm pretty sure the tapered roller bearings are available now.
There isn't a lot of feedback about them yet, but theoretically, they should be very stout.
I know how much you like theoreticals.
There isn't a lot of feedback about them yet, but theoretically, they should be very stout.
I know how much you like theoreticals.
#1159
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afm, I will look into that. I'm guessing that would take a while at best to spec every bearing for the bushings.
What are everyone's thoughts on the IL motorsports, 40% stiffer-than-stock rubber bushings? Or the mazda motorsports 40% stiffer bushings? These vs poly, would poly or delrin be noticeably stiffer? It seems these options don't bind, and don't squeak, and I can just buy and install.
What are everyone's thoughts on the IL motorsports, 40% stiffer-than-stock rubber bushings? Or the mazda motorsports 40% stiffer bushings? These vs poly, would poly or delrin be noticeably stiffer? It seems these options don't bind, and don't squeak, and I can just buy and install.
#1160
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Fwiw we will sell poly bronze setups still. Just not at the same price.
I think delrin might be the way to go for you. It's stiffer than poly, won't squeek or anything.
I think delrin might be the way to go for you. It's stiffer than poly, won't squeek or anything.