Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1252179)
Lots of scuttlebutt about the T6 not being "as good as it used to be" so we'll see.
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1252216)
let's see that blackstone report
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No because you have a billion different reasons for a billion different things and your results are all over the place. They're more like opinions than results because there's like no documentation or real data. No offense, of course. But when people post up reports with data and results it's easier to draw conclusions, than to just say "well I pulled the engine and it had bearing wear". Did you run the one exclusively on castrol all of it's lifetime, and the others on t6 exlusively? And before any of them ever blew up, you tore them apart?
Its getting so difficult to find real, proper, data to make really important conclusions from cause you got 7 billion people on the internet saying 7 billion different things, and about 6.9 billion are just bs'ing or drawing conclusions from opinions or guesses and calling them facts. It bothers me cause it took me months of research to settle on T6 for the miata, and if you're gonna say it's inferior to castrol I'm gonna wanna see test results/lab data. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1252078)
...
I ordered them the same time I ordered my shifter. I've got one for the trans and one for the diff as well. They are expensive as hell but really, really well made. Back in the day I found one with a magnet that Mazda sold for the diff and it also fit in the trans, but the magnets are nowhere near as powerful as the MR ones. They are very much cheaper though ;)
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1252149)
First, didn't know those drain plugs existed! Probably gonna get one for my motor. :bigtu: ... WOW, those are crazy expensive! The last time I bought some, I got them from Gold Plug. They were only $10 a piece, but that was 3 years ago. They look like they've gone up since then, but still, they are cheaper, plus they go on sale 2 or 3 times a year and you can pick them up for 20% off or so. Gold Plug LLC ? Magnetic Drain Plugs |
LOL it's 25 bucks. Better take out a loan.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1252223)
12psi@1k and 40psi@3800 is not good
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1252226)
link?
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1252233)
LOL it's 25 bucks. Better take out a loan.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1438037466 |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1252228)
No because you have a billion different reasons for a billion different things and your results are all over the place. They're more like opinions than results because there's like no documentation or real data. No offense, of course. But when people post up reports with data and results it's easier to draw conclusions, than to just say "well I pulled the engine and it had bearing wear". Did you run the one exclusively on castrol all of it's lifetime, and the others on t6 exlusively? And before any of them ever blew up, you tore them apart?
Ran T6 on 2 different engines, both showed some bearing wear in the ROD BEARINGS ONLY reving to 8,000 on T6. Mains were always fine. It didn't destroy the bearings but it knocked through the top layer in the middle of each rod bearing. Last motor I ran castrol GTX, ran more boost, and higher revs, and when it cracked a piston (same failure mode as previous motor BTW) the rod bearings were perfect. Mains were always the same, perfect. Again, if you don't like my experience, and thing I'm wrong, that's fine. I like Rotella, I've run it before. You said you like data, go look up the shear strength (whatever they call it for oils) of Rotella compared to Castrol GTX. The castrol is much higher shear than the Rotella. That's some data for you since real world results don't prove anything. Leafy knows a lot more about oils than I do, maybe he can chime in. Rotella is good oil, but for high RPMs Castrol protects better regarding the bearings. Also I agree with Sav, 40 PSI at 3,800 is low, I believe spec is around 50 ish. I have an oil pressure senor installed I need to plug in but I can tell you whatever the OEM oil pressure switch is, my motor will hit that on the starter at 150 RPMs. Dunno what idle PSI is. I can say VVT doesn't work very well until 1,800 RPMs, so whatever oil PSI is required for VVT to work, I find that at 1,800 RPMs. Again, sorry for posting data/experience and please ignore if it's not valid. |
You keep posting opinions disguised as facts, and when you get called on them you get super defensive like I'm attacking you. I'm not attacking you.
Back to our regular scheduled programming |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1252228)
..
Its getting so difficult to find real, proper, data to make really important conclusions from cause you got 7 billion people on the internet saying 7 billion different things, and about 6.9 billion are just bs'ing or drawing conclusions from opinions or guesses and calling them facts. It bothers me cause it took me months of research to settle on T6 for the miata, and if you're gonna say it's inferior to castrol I'm gonna wanna see test results/lab data. I have actually measured bearing clearances, assembled, ran the engiens, and torn down engines and inspected the bearings myself using both oils I posted about. I posted what I found. This isn't internet hearsay, or what my friend did, it's actual experience. Same oil temps (stock oil setup so probably shit), same BP 1.8L , same fuel, same car. Castrol motor had higher revs, so in theory more stress on bottom end. In fact if you'd like, I'll plastigauge the bearings from the old motor the next time I have it out and post those numbers too, along with pics. That's going to be a while, but when I have it out I'll do it. Old motors are long gone, nothing I can "prove" on those for you other than tell you what I saw when I tore them down. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1252248)
Back to our regular scheduled programming
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...following this discussion with GREAT interest.
I'm breaking in my new engine now and I'm seeing 40-45 psi when hot (~200F). Gonna be switching to "permanent" oil tomorrow. I've got 2 jugs of Rotella T6, and 2 jugs of Schaeffer 9000 and was planning on using the Schaeffer. Now, I'm not so sure... |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1252248)
You keep posting opinions disguised as facts, and when you get called on them you get super defensive like I'm attacking you. I'm not attacking you.
Back to our regular scheduled programming I can't "prove" that castrol caused it, I'll agree. But the actual result happened, and something caused it. Since you doubt it was the oil, what do you think caused it? |
I don't know. And that's the point. If you had a blackstone report I'd commend you and take your advice. But as it is we'll never know.
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1252254)
I don't know. And that's the point. If you had a blackstone report I'd commend you and take your advice. But as it is we'll never know.
But tearing down an engine and inspecting/measuring bearing clearances is not? Do you see why I think that's ridiculous? They both are used for the same thing, and one of them is even more definitive than the other. The purpose of the report is to give you an idea what's happening inside the motor so you don't have to tear it down to find out. Again you said you like data, look up the data on both oils, Castrol has a higher shear (whatever it's called, again Leafy knows way more on oils than I do maybe he will chime in) and that higher shear is what stops metal on metal contact at high loading. That's real data that does exist, it's published and tested, you can look it up. |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1252242)
Also I agree with Sav, 40 PSI at 3,800 is low, I believe spec is around 50 ish.
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check this out:
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1107727)
moar updates on this build
........ also found this interesting little fellow https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1393731610 there's something I don't see every day. the rest look perfect. On the bright side the heads are back from machine shop, and got "THE WORKS". They look amazing. Pics of them soon. https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...2/#post1110992 Would you blame that on the oil? Wanna know which one he was running?
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1252257)
So a blackstone report showing high or low metals in the bearings would be definitive.
But tearing down an engine and inspecting/measuring bearing clearances is not? Do you see why I think that's ridiculous? They both are used for the same thing, and one of them is even more definitive than the other. The purpose of the report is to give you an idea what's happening inside the motor so you don't have to tear it down to find out. Again you said you like data, look up the data on both oils, Castrol has a higher shear (whatever it's called, again Leafy knows way more on oils than I do maybe he will chime in) and that higher shear is what stops metal on metal contact at high loading. That's real data that does exist, it's published and tested, you can look it up. And LOL @ referencing Leafy. I bet you 5 dollars that literally no one takes more than 1% of his posts seriously. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1252254)
I don't know. And that's the point. If you had a blackstone report I'd commend you and take your advice. But as it is we'll never know.
I agree don't jump to conclusions, but I can't really think of an alternate explanation. Maybe more power would affect it, but the rods showed wear on both sides of the cap, not just the tops. That alone points to an oil/RPM problem. I guess since you don't know, and don't believe my explanation, surely you have at least one plausable second explanation? I'd love to hear it, cause you could be right and maybe it's not the oil. So far I can't think of anything. |
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1252260)
Neither agree nor disagree. It's an incomplete problem description and, therefore, a premature conclusion. We need oil temperature data to make this call. If the oil is really hot (like, turbo motor with no oil cooler in the Summer in Utah after extended high RPM running hot), then those numbers are darn good.
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1252262)
Last thought on this. If it wasn't the oil, what else could you change on an engine that would reduce bearing wear in the rod bearings? Assume I used the same bearings, clearances, rods, pistons, harmonic damper, and block. What else could it be?
I agree don't jump to conclusions, but I can't really think of an alternate explanation. Maybe more power would affect it, but the rods showed wear on both sides of the cap, not just the tops. That alone points to an oil/RPM problem. I guess since you don't know, and don't believe my explanation, surely you have at least one plausable second explanation? I'd love to hear it, cause you could be right and maybe it's not the oil. So far I can't think of anything. How about poor oil pressure? There are so many reasons. But I'm not gonna just throw them out like I know. That's why I don't like it when you draw conclusions like you do. It's also why I keep calling you out on telling people stuff like "I spun my engine to.............*insert some absurd high rpm*.........and it was fine* when the engine has been blown up long ago, and we don't REALLY know if it was fine or not. Etc. Look at that picture of destroyed bearing I posted. Tell me what you think happened there. |
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