Sweet, thanks Hornet. If it gives me trouble I might hit it with the propane torch for a minute and see if that loosens it up at all.
The MSM mixing manifold I'm using has a giant nipple in it, possibly larger than the tap hole for 1/8 NPT and thus my worry. |
Not that it matters now, but washers can only (theoretically) distribute load so far from the bottom of the bolt that goes through them. My guess is the ARP ones are larger than that size. But if for science you want to stick a pair of calipers on the unused ones I can see if I can run the numbers.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1226295)
The NB2/MSM COPs are supposed to be good for what, 20psi? I need to order connectors to cleanup and rebuild that harness, its a mess.
My 99 coils were misfiring at 15 psi, and that's when gapped pretty far down. The TSE/Toyota COPs fixed that problem, although I think you'd need to mill the MSM valve cover to get them to fit. ...wait, MSM valve cover? I thought you were putting a VVT head on this motor? --Ian |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1226302)
The MSM mixing manifold I'm using has a giant nipple in it, possibly larger than the tap hole for 1/8 NPT and thus my worry.
I've only done it on the regular mixing manifolds to get rid of the little 90 on the front. If that thing is really big (haven't ever seen the MSM mm), then my advice might be bad. For example, I don't know of anyone that has pulled the oil cooler 90 that is on the back of the 1.8 head without mangling. I have pulled the "cursed water plug" fitting on the back of the 1.6 head without any issue though -- again to install a pipe plug. Hmmmmm. Hope I didn't mess you up. If the fitting is straight, then try to insert a bolt or rod prior to putting pliers on it so you get a good grip and keep the fitting relatively straight/unmangled. That helps the fitting keep its strength so it can be pulled. Doesn't work on a 90 of course. |
Originally Posted by PatCleary
(Post 1226313)
Not that it matters now, but washers can only (theoretically) distribute load so far from the bottom of the bolt that goes through them. My guess is the ARP ones are larger than that size. But if for science you want to stick a pair of calipers on the unused ones I can see if I can run the numbers.
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1226335)
Huh. I had always heard the NB2 coils were weaker than the 99 ones. More reliable, yes, but not weaker output.
Lets just say I have problems, OK? :p
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1226335)
My 99 coils were misfiring at 15 psi, and that's when gapped pretty far down. The TSE/Toyota COPs fixed that problem, although I think you'd need to mill the MSM valve cover to get them to fit.
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1226335)
...wait, MSM valve cover? I thought you were putting a VVT head on this motor?
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1226344)
Whoa!
I've only done it on the regular mixing manifolds to get rid of the little 90 on the front. If that thing is really big (haven't ever seen the MSM mm), then my advice might be bad. The fitting comes out and turns a 90 to go vertical. The outside of the tube measures 0.040" so the hole is at least that size. The Internet claims a tap drill for M14x1.5 is 12.5mm, or for those of us who use non socialist forms of measure that's 0.492" or as I like to call it, 0.5 Freedoms. Tap drill for 1/8" NPT is like 0.339" or something so I'm already oversized for NPT. M14x1.5 is starting to sound better and better.
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1226344)
For example, I don't know of anyone that has pulled the oil cooler 90 that is on the back of the 1.8 head without mangling. I have pulled the "cursed water plug" fitting on the back of the 1.6 head without any issue though -- again to install a pipe plug.
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1226344)
Hmmmmm. Hope I didn't mess you up.
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1226344)
If the fitting is straight, then try to insert a bolt or rod prior to putting pliers on it so you get a good grip and keep the fitting relatively straight/unmangled. That helps the fitting keep its strength so it can be pulled. Doesn't work on a 90 of course.
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So once the oil pump is installed, can anyone think of a way to confirm that the little spring inside the front main seal is sill in place without removing the pump or the seal? :vash:
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1226388)
So once the oil pump is installed, can anyone think of a way to confirm that the little spring inside the front main seal is sill in place without removing the pump or the seal? :vash:
I think the MSM VC should work with the TSE coils given a little bit of time on the mill. Of course, then it wouldn't be quite as pretty. --Ian |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1226295)
The NB2/MSM COPs are supposed to be good for what, 20psi?
|
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1226393)
Start the engine and see if you have an oil leak? :)
The BE pump came with the front main pre-installed. When I tried to slip it over the crank the seal went inverted (if you've ever installed one of these you will know what I'm talking about) and while I'm pretty sure it didn't dump the spring, I cannot confirm that it did not dump the spring. :vash: I was going to install the timing set today until I realized this. The 949 damper requires the magical removal tool so if the seal is screwed, I'm down for weeks playing the damper removal game. I'm trying to decide if its worth it to pull the front main and replace it out of spite.
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1226393)
I think the MSM VC should work with the TSE coils given a little bit of time on the mill. Of course, then it wouldn't be quite as pretty
Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 1226396)
I've done two cars with these at 25-29psi.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1226409)
Perfect, I was pretty sure that's what I had read in the past. I'm not sure I have enough ру́сский in my family tree to handle 25-29psi on this build :giggle: Just bring it over |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1226409)
Unghhhhhhhh. I was afraid someone was going to say this.
damper removal game. I'm trying to decide if its worth it to pull the front main and replace it out of spite. Perfect, I was pretty sure that's what I had read in the past. I'm not sure I have enough ру́сский in my family tree to handle 25-29psi on this build :giggle: I put in my 3 bar map sensor yesterday -- the road to 22+ psi is open! :) --Ian |
My BE pump also came with a seal pre installed. Now it's leaking profusely after 3 hard track days and my be 2000 miles fortunately I'm on stock pulley so it's easy
|
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1226425)
:laugh:
Just bring it over
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1226429)
What special tool? The ATI one comes off with a standard Kragen harmonic damper puller, some penetrating oil, and a good impact wrench. The 949 is supposed to be easier to install/remove than the ATI, right?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430086239 Harmonic Balancer Installer Rental FML, I'm glad I noticed that before I just sucked it on there with the crank bolt. Time to go find instructions on how this damn thing actually works :vash:
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1226429)
I put in my 3 bar map sensor yesterday -- the road to 22+ psi is open! :)
|
Originally Posted by greddygalant
(Post 1226430)
My BE pump also came with a seal pre installed. Now it's leaking profusely after 3 hard track days and my be 2000 miles fortunately I'm on stock pulley so it's easy
|
No removal tool beyond a HF 3-jaw puller. I use the $40 installer tool to install them. You can rent/buy the nice tool if you wish but it's not necessary.
Yes, getting the BE pump in place with the front main pre-installed is pretty finnicky. I usually have a dental screwdriver on hand when I do them. |
5 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1226435)
No removal tool beyond a HF 3-jaw puller. I use the $40 installer tool to install them. You can rent/buy the nice tool if you wish but it's not necessary.
This $40 tool? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430101612 Crank Holder Balancer Miata Please forgive my unrepentant noobishness but how exactly does that thing work? Or are we talking about one of these things: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430101612
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1226435)
Yes, getting the BE pump in place with the front main pre-installed is pretty finnicky. I usually have a dental screwdriver on hand when I do them.
Well, whaddaya know? Attachment 237833 Part out avoided. I got a little aggressive with my little screwdriver prying the seal out, but the bore is untouched. I'll take a jewelers file to the little marks and disappear them before I put in a new front main. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1226475)
Part out avoided. I got a little aggressive with my little screwdriver prying the seal out, but the bore is untouched. I'll take a jewelers file to the little marks and disappear them before I put in a new front main.
I install the ATI with a long bolt of the same threads as the crank bolt and a bunch of washers. --Ian |
1 Attachment(s)
Also, back to this thing:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430107079 I tossed it in the vice and gave it a twist to break it loose. After that I was able to just work it back and fourth until it popped out. For the record the hole measures just a hair above 10mm. The OEM hole is off center so drilling it out to 1/2" and then tapping it for M14x1.5 is just not going to be an option. After thinking about it for more than 2 minutes it occurs to me that I can also buy Fragola M12x1.5 to -6AN adapters. They are a bastard to find because both Summit and Jegs list them as "carburetor adapters" rather than metric to an fittings. :facepalm: The tap hole for x1.5 is 10.5mm and because 10.5mm is a drill size I can actually buy from Amazon, M12x1.5 to -6 it is! Hopefully that does not cause too much restriction in the system. I mean I'm sure it'll flow better than a banjo so no harm, no foul. |
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1226479)
So was the spring in place or not? :)
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1226479)
I install the ATI with a long bolt of the same threads as the crank bolt and a bunch of washers.
--Ian |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1226488)
They are a bastard to find because both Summit and Jegs list them as "carburetor adapters" rather than metric to an fittings. :facepalm:
https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing/ Earl's has 'em in the metric to AN section :) https://www.holley.com/products/plum...o_an_adapters/ --Ian |
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