Beer. I'll join you.
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1 Attachment(s)
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That's an 8mm inconel stud and the brownish stuff is resbond. What makes it even better is that shit is flush.
When I fuck things up, I go all the way. |
I'm really confused how that happened. It wasn't bottomed out. Was it hitting something on the other side? How much force were you applying?
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Your build would not be complete without another unnecessary benjamin thrown at it.
Edit: confused as well. Not tapped properly? What made it bind? |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1203523)
How much force were you applying?
It turns out that the little weld blobs that ARTech puts on the backside of the flange to keep the studs from backing out do not work as intended when confronted with Inconel. |
Oh. Ahh. Suckzors.
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I'd like to make it perfectly clear that this was operator error, not some defect in the product.
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Buy 10 drill bits and an ez out? Good luck lol.
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Do you guys have a vendor with a plunge Edm that owes you a favor? Might be the fastest way to remove most of that.
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No EDM that I'm aware of, but I'm going to make some calls tomorrow. This is way beyond my ability to unfuck.
I ended up spending 20 minutes with a set of jewelers files removing the weld nubs as well as i could and then retapped the remaining holes. Studs feel super loose now, not sure if that's good or not :sad2: |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1203541)
No EDM that I'm aware of, but I'm going to make some calls tomorrow. This is way beyond my ability to unfuck.
--Ian |
Oof. G, you just can't catch a break man. Broken studs suck.
How loose is loose? They should thread in pretty easy from my memory of installing the TSE studs. Besides once threaded all the way with resbond I don't think you'll have issues. Resbond that shit, fix the broken stud, and put your nuts on and call it could. |
Yes, the Resbond should bridge it.
So sorry to see this. Plunge EDM would work but it will take a big tank. Can you get to the offending tits on the back side and file them away? Or are they internal? Also, is there some way to pre-dissolve the Resbond chemically before attempting the extraction? 10mm stud in that one location? Worst case, new flange. End of solitary brain storming session. |
Dang! Thats bad luck.
I had a similar issue with and enlarged hole (not broken inconel stud) and ended up running a larger stud in that location. |
Drop everything and take it to a skill machinist. Had the same happen with my turbo, 2.5 dp pipe studs were removed flawlessly for $75.
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Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1203551)
Yeah, breaking off a drill bit in the broken stud makes the machine shop guys charge you double to fix it.
--Ian
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1203552)
Oof. G, you just can't catch a break man. Broken studs suck.
How loose is loose? They should thread in pretty easy from my memory of installing the TSE studs. Besides once threaded all the way with resbond I don't think you'll have issues. Resbond that shit, fix the broken stud, and put your nuts on and call it could.
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1203561)
Yes, the Resbond should bridge it.
So sorry to see this. Plunge EDM would work but it will take a big tank. Can you get to the offending tits on the back side and file them away? Or are they internal?
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1203561)
Also, is there some way to pre-dissolve the Resbond chemically before attempting the extraction?
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1203561)
10mm stud in that one location?
The point of using the 8mm inconel was finding an off the shelf solution so I didn't have to sit there all night like a chinese monk with a dremel and a file making things fit.
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1203561)
Worst case, new flange.
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1203561)
End of solitary brain storming session.
Originally Posted by relte
(Post 1203565)
Dang! Thats bad luck.
I had a similar issue with and enlarged hole (not broken inconel stud) and ended up running a larger stud in that location. If the threads can't be salvaged I can always try a helicoil or time-sert. Or drill a big bastard hole and weld in a new piece of material with a fresh tapped hole in it. I have options but none of them are attractive. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1203660)
Put everything down carefully and take it to a skill machinist. Had the same happen with my turbo, 2.5 dp pipe studs were removed flawlessly for $75.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1203660)
Drop everything and take it to a skill machinist.
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1 Attachment(s)
Just to give you an idea of exactly how badly I fucked this up, here is a pic of one of the "tits" in one of the other threaded holes:
Attachment 238306 That's after I decided the force on the tap seemed a bit ...excessive. I removed the rest of that blob with the aforementioned files and finished retaping. It was not fun. The bluing in the blob should give you an idea of how hardened that material was after welding. At this point, I'm not convinced the Swain coating had anything to do with it. |
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