https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6fdf9a278a.jpg
One man brake bleed: complete I always feel like one bottle of RBF600 isn't enough, but 2 bottle is a waste. Its been how many years and I'm STILL getting SuperBlue dye out of the system, lol Fel-Pro gasket came in, as expected. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ec7bc910cb.jpg Fits gr8m8 also as expected https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1f0fdb858e.jpg PO of the header had a think for orange RTV, I'm not nearly that hacky but I'm also too lazy to clean it. Protec yo shaft befo yo rek yo shaft: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c0e8d04aca.jpg Swaggu level: over 9000, to be sure. Will probably throw some Rotella T6 15w-50 in it along with a new filter, because FSM knows when the last time it was changed. Better safe than sorry. Maintenance nearly complete, and a whole almost 10 days before trackday! A terrible omen, to be sure. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1603891)
Protec yo shaft befo yo rek yo shaft:
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1603891)
One man brake bleed: complete I always feel like one bottle of RBF600 isn't enough, but 2 bottle is a waste. Its been how many years and I'm STILL getting SuperBlue dye out of the system, lol [size=13px] It hangs out in the bottom of the Wilwoods. People say you don't need to open the bottom bleeders to flush it, but you do. Back when I was trying to figure out a soft pedal after doing the ABS swap on my car I'd put a couple of gallons of brake fluid through the system and afterwards in desperation I bled the bottom bleeders on the Dynapros. Blue fluid came out, when it wasn't visible anywhere else in the system. (it didn't fix the pedal -- that required a 1" master). --Ian |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1603891)
Will probably throw some Rotella T6 15w-50 in it along with a new filter,
Originally Posted by afm
(Post 1603892)
This time next year: Gordon spends a month wondering if these shock covers will cause overheating :party:
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1603893)
It hangs out in the bottom of the Wilwoods. People say you don't need to open the bottom bleeders to flush it, but you do
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1) you don't want squish on the poly engine mount bushing, you want to contact the clevis with the sleeve, squishing the poly is where the NVH starts getting not fun
2) Check any silicone hoses for the coolant leak. They *will* start to seep over time, Ben found that out on Eiffel. |
Yeah thanks for reminding me. I need to order oem heater hoses and throw that trash in the trash.
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Originally Posted by boileralum
(Post 1603955)
1) you don't want squish on the poly engine mount bushing, you want to contact the clevis with the sleeve, squishing the poly is where the NVH starts getting not fun
Originally Posted by boileralum
(Post 1603955)
2) Check any silicone hoses for the coolant leak. They *will* start to seep over time, Ben found that out on Eiffel.
Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1603956)
Yeah thanks for reminding me. I need to order oem heater hoses and throw that trash in the trash.
Of course if its anything like you and clutch slave cylinders, I expect you change your hoses every time you change your oil. :giggle: |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1603746)
WOOOO! Get ready to be sweaty! I'm signed up with GGLC as well so I'll see you there! :bigtu: No more spots in Intermediate so I signed up in Novice. It's been a LOOOOONG time so I figured that would be safe.
So, are you going to give me a ride along so you can do a spin out to show me what you have learned since that time I gave you a ride years ago?😄 Your welcome to go on a ride with me. Don’t have the turbo installed yet so won’t feel as aggressive as Geoff’s ride. Here’s a video from last week at LS playing around with the Garmin Catalyst |
I fought a similar fight last year with my V8R motor mounts. The problem was that the sleeve was too thin for the bushing and the clevis would clamp on the bushing effectively negating the usefulness of the bushings.
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...-fixed-104358/ https://www.clubroadster.net/cdn-cgi...17-png.150491/ |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1603922)
What's the worse that could happen, bleeders start leaking? :hahano:
--Ian |
Originally Posted by andym
(Post 1603971)
I fought a similar fight last year with my V8R motor mounts.
I really didn't want to but in the ended I zipped up my jorts, putting on my safely flops, and ripped the driver side mount out in order to check. As far as I can tell, mine are also too short by what I perceive as exactly 3mm. How much you want to be the steel "ears" on the clevis are exactly 3mm thick? lol. I'll measure it tomorrow to find out. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a8038d7957.jpg That would have crushed the hell out of the "lips" on the edges of the bushings causing the NVH nightmare that you and @boileralum was referring to. So I guess I need to make a set. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...45ab39219e.jpg Steel sleeve as provided by V8R is a nominal 7/8" OD tube https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b84f654591.jpg With a 1/2" nominal ID. I don't have any steel but I do have some 0.875" aluminum bar stock, which for this application should be fine. Plus aluminum is lighter than steel. Gram strategy bro. #becauseracecar https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a597f2fb93.jpg Inside of the "clevis" is 60mm. I love mixing imperial and metric :giggle: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5551880a04.jpg Width on the bushing is close enough that it shouldn't matter. Knock out some slugs on the Porta-Bandsaw https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8868672886.jpg Overlength slugs I might add. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f9c76dde31.jpg With beer #3 in hand its off to the mini lathe where they are faced, as is tradition. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...92537c2a2a.jpg Then flipped the cut to length. P R E C I S I O N. Almost makes it look like I know WTF I'm doing. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9cb7a3fc7b.jpg Center drilled, then through drilled with whatever random drill bit was on the bench (15/64" maybe?) https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...01c56e83f1.jpg Then blast her through with the "big" 1/2" drill. Note to self: mini-lathe does not like 1/2" drill https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...82828c2eec.jpg A little debur and ready to rock. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a5bce18d3e.jpg Fits gr8 m8. They came out just long enough to push into the clevis and hold themselves in place between the "ears" https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...43d4f74901.jpg Then make another one just like it! Hopefully V8R made these things consistently enough that I can chuck this one back in tomorrow morning, retorque everything, then pull the passenger side one and do the swap on that side. Bleh. I appriciate the heads up there @andym
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1603972)
Biggest challenge is that since the screws are upside down you have to remember to flip which way is loosening/tightening. Don't strip them!
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Life can be so good with a lathe on hand :cool: nice work!
Gordon, do you know the OD of the bushing itself, just out of interest |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1603966)
What's in there now? Curious how long they lasted for you.
Of course if its anything like you and clutch slave cylinders, I expect you change your hoses every time you change your oil. :giggle: |
All silicone hoses I have tried over the years do the same; slowly "sweat" coolant, they are all a bit permeable. This (and the shiny finishing) is why I hate them. On the other hand, I love OEM-style spring clamps, so I am not exactly sane...
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Originally Posted by HarryB
(Post 1603994)
All silicone hoses I have tried over the years do the same; slowly "sweat" coolant, they are all a bit permeable. This (and the shiny finishing) is why I hate them. On the other hand, I love OEM-style spring clamps, so I am not exactly sane...
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Interesting find this morning while doing sleeve R&R on pax side:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c6160ef12a.jpg That looks an awful lot like contact. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d833068c6d.jpg Looking at the clearances when assembled, the only way to fix that would be to take a slice out of the aluminum bushing eye with something like a mill. Contact would completely negate any function of the bushing and I'm pretty sure Cadillacs aren't designed with metal-to-metal contact in the engine mounts. Sent her all the way anyway, we'll see if it's an actual problem. Another interesting find: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...96fdd1fd8b.jpg Please forgive the samsquanch legs and jorts, it's already 85° out here this morning. :giggle: The poly bushing isn't completely supported by the ears of the clevis. I don't know if it actually matters, it just seems like an odd design choice. Or hacky oversight. Either way I don't really like it. |
First two pics are why i hate everything right now, got it.
Last picture doesn't matter. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1604016)
That looks an awful lot like contact.
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1604016)
Looking at the clearances when assembled, the only way to fix that would be to take a slice out of the aluminum bushing eye with something like a mill. Contact would completely negate any function of the bushing and I'm pretty sure Cadillacs aren't designed with metal-to-metal contact in the engine mounts. Sent her all the way anyway, we'll see if it's an actual problem.
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1604016)
The poly bushing isn't completely supported by the ears of the clevis. I don't know if it actually matters, it just seems like an odd design choice. Or hacky oversight. Either way I don't really like it.
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Last picture doesn't matter.
*Last pic doesn't matter now that you have a proper length sleeve so that the bushing isn't getting squooshed. |
Bushing outside the cradle isn't really an issue. The support is on the center tube. It'll just move fore-aft a little more.
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