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Originally Posted by Girz0r, in sparkybean's intro thread
Right then, lets turbo this heap. This '96 (with a '92 1.6 fitted) was my daily until rust, and thus a failed MOT, put it out of action. It is now a track/drift only car and has done a few events already. A stripped interior and welded diff = racecar, right?
The goal is 225 wheel hp
Last edited by sparkybean; 06-01-2015 at 05:36 PM.
I decided to go with the microsquirt primarily due to cost. £275 including shipping and taxes. Looking at the spec sheet it does everything i need with the possible exception of sequential fuelling, which isnt a dealbreaker. It does not have mosfets to drive igntion coils directly, but luckily this car has the sperate ignitor. A small board had to be built to pull up the CAS inputs. (why this isnt an option in the megasquirt i dont know, sort it out guys).
Next to it is a Innovate LC2 wideband controller, so i can measure fuelling. I threaded the sensor in place of the narrowband into the manifold.
This is the genius homebrew knock controller kit, which is not at all an electronic stethascope connected to a knock sensor and a headphone jack.
I had to remove the variable oil pressure sensor to fit the knock sensor in. I fitted the smaller 7psi oil pressure switch in its place. Way too difficult to look at the gauges when driving at 10/10ths anyway. I replaced the oil pressure gauge in the cluster with some of the worlds brightest LEDs instead, which DO catch your attention when they turn on.
The coolant gauge in the cluster has also been removed, and some equally eye-searing green leds have been fitted. These are controlled by the megasquirt, and illuminate at 100c as a coolant t warning. They also double as a shift light. The microsquirt also controls the fan relay, meaning i can remove 2 of the 3 coolant temp senders fitted to the B6 engine... xD
Last edited by sparkybean; 05-24-2015 at 06:57 PM.
I picked up a GM 3 bar MAP sensor, and mounted it to the firewall. Its fed from the fuel pressure regulator as i hear this is a more stable source of vacuum than at the throttle body. Got rid of the air flow meter too. I knocked up an intake from a spare bit of 2.5in tubing and a silicone 90. For IAT sensing i did NOT go wth the GM IAT as they are expensive here and are an NPT thread. I chose a bosch IAT instead and am in the process of fitting that now using some 8mm 304 plate.
Look closely at the above pic (no, not at the welds) and youll see an e36 TPS i fitted, on a bracket cut from 1.5mm steel.
Because racecar, i removed the 2 idle air valves, and blanked them with 3mm steel plates.
Getting the car running again was fun. After tinkering in tunerstudio and a lot of cranking, the engine spluttered into life. I have the throttle screw set to let a ton of air through, then idle speed is controlled closed-loop by retarding spark angle as necessary. This means the car will start from cold with no throttle and maintain a steady ~800rpm idle until hot, without idle valves. It does mean the first ~5% of throttle angle is 'dead' as the ecu just keeps the car idling depsite the extra air.
Because the car is not road legal, to map the car i tried the old school 'driveway-rolling-road' trick, which involves jacking the back of the car up into the air and using the brake pedal to load the engine up. And promptly set the brakes alight.
Watching the AFR's and listening to the knock sensor had the tune dialled in quite well. I stole and tweaked the Joe perez spark map he posted back in 2005, and have the fuelling targeted toward 12.6:1 for now. It works very well on our 95 octane regular
With the EFI sorted, that brings things up to date until before this weekend... Will update more tomorrow.
Last edited by sparkybean; 06-01-2015 at 05:25 PM.
I lied, no updates from this weekend. Turns out i ordered a load of wrong sized parts for a coolant reroute, so thatll have to wait until next weekend.
I started on the coolant reroute. And by 'reroute' i mean 'tear it all out and start again'.
All good projects must include a drawing done on MSPAINT somewhere along the line!
I decided to route the coolant line around the hotside as my car is RHD and there is so much clutter and pipework around the intake maniold already, and im hoping going under the exhaust manifold will be fine as ive done everything in 304 tube. Im hoping the exhaust heat doesnt harm the silicone elbow either. May have to knock up a small heat shield, we'll see.
Using the kia water neck, without the begi spacer. Heater feed comes from the hidden port behind the intake manifold. You can see my grinder peck marks in the bellhousing where i had to cut away part of the clutch cover... oops.
This banjo fitting (£9 quid!?!) is the feed for the turbo. M12x1.25mm.
Knocked up a blanking plate for the front coolant port as well.
To get the coolant fitting in for the manifold one of the supporting butresses/webs had to be removed. Hopefully i dont end up cracking the manifold from the lessed strength. Should be fine.
I was hoping to have the heater hose lines run as well but lashing rain and working outside put an end to that. With some luck ill finish the reroute next weekend. Im expecting lots of pinhole welds to deal with...
05-24-2015 | 05:17 PM
ITT: 225whp from a 1.6 with no intercooler.
0
I knocked up an intake from a spare bit of 2.5in tubing and a silicone 90. For IAT sensing i did NOT go wth the GM IAT as they are expensive here and are an NPT thread. I chose a bosch IAT instead and am in the process of fitting that now using some 8mm 304 plate.
