Ahh, yes. Should be able to figure out that TDC reference point, but I lack the will to do so. I've pretty much treated 0* advance as that reference point, because that's what it reverts to in the event the VVT solenoid is disconnected, and it is in that condition the car drives most like it's non-VVT counterpart. Maybe a few degrees advanced, but its close.

 

I wonder if limiting air-flow with the cam in the cruise cells can increase fuel economy?

 

I'm pretty sure there are gains to be had with adjustments in the cruise cells. You're the best candidate to find those gains too. Advancing the can in cruise conditions will produce an EGR-like effect. If we're only advancing 38* out of a possible 44*, there should be possibility for improvement. Now in your arsenal of MPG-improvement tools is VVT, injector timing too. I will be interested in what you come up with for that.

Running the EGR solenoid should also yield MPG improvements, though controlling it still seems to be uncharted territory. Oh, you had your port welded closed, right?

What are you doing for emisssions testing?

 

I guess I'll start researching tomorrow since I have the week off.

I plan for this car to legitimately pass emissions...next year. It's due for inspection this month and has severe exhaust leaks.

 

Also, praise Satan for VEAL. Maybe I'll just run 75% authority on EGO so I don't have to jack with fuel.

I may drive to Austin tomorrow to eat BBQ while working on fuel economy.

 

So I jacked with VVT adjustments going for max VE value in VEAL and this is the best I could come up with:

However you can still see the massive dip:

I'm guessing that's exhaust cam related. I'll work on cruise later.

 

You don't want 10 degrees of advance at idle.

 

yeah, I just fixed that. It idles wonderfully without the AC now, that's what I'm doing later today. Right now these kitties need some time with their father figure while he watches TV.

 

Why is it so hard to find a VVT head for sale? Are the valve covers hard to come by?

 

Yes

 

Tom at partsgroup.com had some last time I asked him.

 

Tired of tuning, I need a driver. I still have a weird VVT dip at 3500-4000rpm and I just can't figure it out.

 

I'm probably just going to find a complete 2001+ engine locally, swap heads with my track car, then sell the one I don't want. It will make a good engine though with the moderately high compression ratio and 99 head with MSM cam. I want to do fancy cams in my track car now, lol.

 

Intake pipe resonant volume and length. Try changing intake pipe length. Either really short, or 21-24". Has nothing to do with VVT, or timing advance.

 

I have two idle conditions:
Car idles great, even with the AC. It barely idled with the AC previously, I guess that's because the engine was ****. I'm giving it away, lol.

90% of the time idle is great, 10% of the time it whacks out and lopes like it has a big-*** cam. Then, I plug in VVTuner and the chugging/loping stops. What's going on?

 

Thanks for saving me tons of time. I need to get an intake for it, but I also need to pay Reverant for Green Glory's computer and possibly get an intake cam gear with pick-ups.

Do you think a shorter intake would benefit my green car? I would like to get a "180-pipe" like what you have on Crusher, maybe it's time. Just looked at my dyno from the other car, I'm not changing anything.

Does anyone know where I can get one of these with a significantly tighter radius?

 

Post your latest VVTuner map.

 

The log is too big to upload.
Is this the dreaded sync-loss problem? The car drives fine and it seems the only sync-loss problems are at idle. I've seen none when driving. Should I close the gap on the CKP sensor and if so, how tight is too tight?

 

Yes, it does seem like a sync loss there. What do the sync loss counter and sync loss reason say?

Set the advance to 0 on all cells 1000-1500 and below 50kPa.

Does idle oscillation stop if you disconnect the VVT valve?

 

Just a peak at a value of 32 on the log, I'm not sure how else to read this, I'll google it.


Okay. Any "smoothing" or manual interpolation up to the 33* of advance or am I okay to have 0 values and 33 values adjacent to each other?

I'll try this tomorrow. It's not really an oscillation like I'm accustomed to with bad PID settings. It's more like a huge cam in a V8 feel. However I assume this is the VVT system oscillating and this is the product. Of course I can't see the oscillation because the instant I plug-in it stops.