My 2001 Italian Stallion money pit build
#667
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I have a question bank open in a different window. Every time I copy paste something this is what happens:
"Copyright (c) UWorld, Please do not save, print, cut, copy or paste anything while a test is active."
"Copyright (c) UWorld, Please do not save, print, cut, copy or paste anything while a test is active."
#668
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For reference, here's a frequency bucket plot of my throttle position for a single lap at Laguna last week:
So out of a 1m48s lap (I was being held up by traffic ), 32% or 35 seconds was at full throttle. If you assume all laps are like this, then 6 sessions * 20 minutes per session * .32 is 38 minutes of full throttle per track day. That's the equivalent of 190 12 second 1/4 mile passes.
--Ian
So out of a 1m48s lap (I was being held up by traffic ), 32% or 35 seconds was at full throttle. If you assume all laps are like this, then 6 sessions * 20 minutes per session * .32 is 38 minutes of full throttle per track day. That's the equivalent of 190 12 second 1/4 mile passes.
--Ian
#669
It would be cool to see the same chart, compared or overlayed with boost pressure. Since turbo cars, TPS does not equal boost pressure, a quick blip of full throttle does not mean the engine was at full boost for the entire time, since you have to spool the turbo. For a SC car I'm sure the overlays would basically match up.
#670
Buckets by boost aren't all that different, 80% of the WOT time is at 2.3 bars, and most of what's left is in the next-to-the-top bucket. On a track like Laguna, with a gearbox as close as a Miata 6-speed, there isn't much chance for RPMs to fall below the boost threshold, and a modern BB turbo like my GTX2863 doesn't lose much speed on shifts.
As for 12-second quarter mile passes, the calculators out there say my car has the power/weight to do it (actually they say it could do 11.3). I am under no illusion that *I* could do it, or that the car has the traction required for it. (neither of those is relevant to the engine wear question, though)
--Ian
As for 12-second quarter mile passes, the calculators out there say my car has the power/weight to do it (actually they say it could do 11.3). I am under no illusion that *I* could do it, or that the car has the traction required for it. (neither of those is relevant to the engine wear question, though)
--Ian
#672
Thanks to Pat, Ed, and Micheal... I'm going into the rabbithole of positive manifold pressure!
Bought this turbo...
T25 T28 GT25 GT28 GT2871 GT2871R GT2860 SR20 CA18DET Turbo Turbocharger turbine | eBay
and I'm going with Kraken's (Michael from the UK) cast manifold turbo kit. He is still working on the intercooler and intake kit. I just gotta take the plunge, and this option seemed like the cheapest option with the least welds. Manifold looks to flow pretty well, at least better than a welded or cast log.
Downpipe starts as a cast part, then goes tubular dude, and mates with the stock midpipe flange
Michael is including oil and water lines, and regular studs, I think I'll get the trackspeed studs, yah?
I'll need injectors, intercooler and piping, intake (I have a 3" cylindrical K&N filter from the Kraftwerks supercharger kit I parted out) ebcs, heat shielding, and to drill/tap my oil pan YIKES.
Bought this turbo...
T25 T28 GT25 GT28 GT2871 GT2871R GT2860 SR20 CA18DET Turbo Turbocharger turbine | eBay
and I'm going with Kraken's (Michael from the UK) cast manifold turbo kit. He is still working on the intercooler and intake kit. I just gotta take the plunge, and this option seemed like the cheapest option with the least welds. Manifold looks to flow pretty well, at least better than a welded or cast log.
Downpipe starts as a cast part, then goes tubular dude, and mates with the stock midpipe flange
Michael is including oil and water lines, and regular studs, I think I'll get the trackspeed studs, yah?
I'll need injectors, intercooler and piping, intake (I have a 3" cylindrical K&N filter from the Kraftwerks supercharger kit I parted out) ebcs, heat shielding, and to drill/tap my oil pan YIKES.
#677
#678
Both of these things. Use good bolts/studs and you should be fine for street usage, just make sure they are 10mm or 3/8" diameter and you should be good to go. And yeah that new manifold looks awesome and well priced. I hope he keeps it reasonable, it looks like a great option for a fair price.
--Ian
#679
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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I didn't really address it specifically, but, I am very interested in keeping a high level of reliability on and off the track, and low level of fixing ****. I might try the trackspeed turbo kit when it's been completed, and has stood the test of time. Like in a few years.
I will be more than satisfied with double my horsepower, and a car that pulls harder and harder all the way to redline with immediate throttle response, and no mid corner boost/throttle control issues.
I've also never owned a supercharged car, but I have done a turbo build.
Plus, I went with the c30-90, which I could still use if/when I build the engine, and max out the rotrex >400whp
I will be more than satisfied with double my horsepower, and a car that pulls harder and harder all the way to redline with immediate throttle response, and no mid corner boost/throttle control issues.
I've also never owned a supercharged car, but I have done a turbo build.
Plus, I went with the c30-90, which I could still use if/when I build the engine, and max out the rotrex >400whp
Thanks to Pat, Ed, and Micheal... I'm going into the rabbithole of positive manifold pressure!
Bought this turbo...
T25 T28 GT25 GT28 GT2871 GT2871R GT2860 SR20 CA18DET Turbo Turbocharger turbine eBay
and I'm going with Kraken's (Michael from the UK) cast manifold turbo kit. He is still working on the intercooler and intake kit. I just gotta take the plunge, and this option seemed like the cheapest option with the least welds. Manifold looks to flow pretty well, at least better than a welded or cast log.
Downpipe starts as a cast part, then goes tubular dude, and mates with the stock midpipe flange
Michael is including oil and water lines, and regular studs, I think I'll get the trackspeed studs, yah?
I'll need injectors, intercooler and piping, intake (I have a 3" cylindrical K&N filter from the Kraftwerks supercharger kit I parted out) ebcs, heat shielding, and to drill/tap my oil pan YIKES.
Bought this turbo...
T25 T28 GT25 GT28 GT2871 GT2871R GT2860 SR20 CA18DET Turbo Turbocharger turbine eBay
and I'm going with Kraken's (Michael from the UK) cast manifold turbo kit. He is still working on the intercooler and intake kit. I just gotta take the plunge, and this option seemed like the cheapest option with the least welds. Manifold looks to flow pretty well, at least better than a welded or cast log.
Downpipe starts as a cast part, then goes tubular dude, and mates with the stock midpipe flange
Michael is including oil and water lines, and regular studs, I think I'll get the trackspeed studs, yah?
I'll need injectors, intercooler and piping, intake (I have a 3" cylindrical K&N filter from the Kraftwerks supercharger kit I parted out) ebcs, heat shielding, and to drill/tap my oil pan YIKES.
#680
Yeah, i'm settling for a cheaper setup, since I won't be doing track stuff any time soon.
In a few years, I'll go all out. I drove Ed's car on low boost, and I was surprised how tame it was. IIRC its estimated at 200whp? Driving that car made me realize I'd want power only achievable with a built engine.
Plus, when that happens, I can sell the budget setup for at least what I paid, since I'm getting lower than retail pricing on the stuff I'm testing.
In a few years, I'll go all out. I drove Ed's car on low boost, and I was surprised how tame it was. IIRC its estimated at 200whp? Driving that car made me realize I'd want power only achievable with a built engine.
Plus, when that happens, I can sell the budget setup for at least what I paid, since I'm getting lower than retail pricing on the stuff I'm testing.