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One of the first things I should do when I get the car back is install padding on the roll bar, but I won't have time to (get my wife to make) a proper cover for it any time soon. I understand that the padding degrades rather quickly in the sun so I will need a temporary solution. I saw somebody on CR say they used Rescue Tape, but doing rough math I would need quite a bit of it to fully over the padding. Any other suggestions?
One of the first things I should do when I get the car back is install padding on the roll bar, but I won't have time to (get my wife to make) a proper cover for it any time soon. I understand that the padding degrades rather quickly in the sun so I will need a temporary solution. I saw somebody on CR say they used Rescue Tape, but doing rough math I would need quite a bit of it to fully over the padding. Any other suggestions?
If you don't care about looks just pick up some fabric that can withstand the elements and ziptie it into place. Did that on my old SE until I stop procrastinating an bought the HD cover that fit the roll bar.
Went out for my first real drive of the year, just got back. Motor is just 350 miles old, but already have some initial impressions:
1). TORQUE! Of course, this is relative to my tired old BP but nice nonetheless. Car hasn't even been dyno tuned yet (happening on Monday) and is running pretty conservative timing, but I'm already impressed.
2). VIBRATION! Coming from my (torn) stock motor mounts, the BBFW "Low NVH" mounts are considerably more...communicative. Not unbearable by any means, but not what I'd want on a daily. Particularly noticeable at idle. Moti has mentioned they take time to break in, and they have seemed to get a little better.
3). RIDE QUALITY! Will be evaluating handling at the autocross tomorrow, but I can say that the Xidas ride better than anything with 700 lb. springs has I right to. Stiffer than the FM/Tokico setup I had before, but no more harsh. Would daily (if I would daily a Miata). The road was pretty rough, some parts were like driving on the moon, but they soaked everything up well. Never bottomed from what I could tell.
I'm excited for the autocross tomorrow. There I'll get to see the real payoff of the Xidas and the Torsen.
No real excitement at the autocross, but was pretty pleased with my times. Definitely need to get used to the new suspension and when to adjust the damping. I kept it on settings I was using on the street (4 clicks front, 3 rear). On my last run I bumped the damping up 3 clicks all around, and despite heat-soaked everything and a boiling hot surface put down my best time. Seems to tend towards understeer. Generally neutral, but I was unable to get any oversteer at the event.
Results were...unsurprising. And a little unimpressive. But a turbo build that's run N/A shouldn't be impressive.
intake is a compromise because of turbo plans, and it's a low comp (8.5?) build. Cobra head intake and $1500 in cams, SUBs, and springs would bring it around 165 from previous experience.
intake is a compromise because of turbo plans, and it's a low comp (8.5?) build. Cobra head intake and $1500 in cams, SUBs, and springs would bring it around 165 from previous experience.
Yeah, too bad we couldn't get the intake to work out easily. Was hoping for more, but like you mentioned this wasn't built with N/A power in mind. Still way better than the old motor, should be bulletproof on the track, and ready for EFR glory.
Officially registered for the BMW day on August 3rd! Going to have at least one more autocross event under my belt before hand, but the handling is still going to be pretty new for me.
Well, remember Don could have bought the high comp motor ($0), tomei cams ($1500), cut his hood up for the cobra head, and upgraded to the ST valve springs ($300), and then he'd be maxed at about 160hp at 7000rpm, and maybe 170 by 8000.
Edit: don't forget the $400 square top.
or he could save that ~$2000 (and keep the low comp) and put it towards a turbo kit, and max the trans at like 400hp.
Well, remember Don could have bought the high comp motor ($0), tomei cams ($1500), cut his hood up for the cobra head, and upgraded to the ST valve springs ($300), and then he'd be maxed at about 160hp at 7000rpm, and maybe 170 by 8000.
Edit: don't forget the $400 square top.
or he could save that ~$2000 (and keep the low comp) and put it towards a turbo kit, and max the trans at like 400hp.
No regrets.
And the head should have Supertech light doubles. Ready for all the revs and/or all the boost.
Well, I've had some time to get to know the car a little better after it's transformation. But first, some autocross pics!
Almost killing a cone. SPEED!
Overall I was okay with my performance. Was 11th in raw time in a field of 40, and down about 10 horsepower from the final dyno tune.
More importantly I took the car on a 1,600 mile roadtrip with my wife riding passenger. While I wasn't necessarily concerned about my car mechanically, I was a little worried about how my wife would take the changes. Other than the NB2 seats, nothing done increased comfort. Turns out her only complaint was the increase in interior rattles at idle and low engine speeds (which I'll admit were annoying me too). However, they were significantly better by the end of the trip. Guess the mounts do break in! Still have some rattle chasing to do though, probably going to wait until the driving season is over for that.
Our trip took us down the coast. Weather was pretty decent, partly cloudy and 60s. Perfect top-down weather as far as I'm concerned.
Just south of Gold Beach, OR.
Spent the night in Eureka, and the next morning headed out to the Avenue of the Giants. My wife had never seen the Redwoods, and this was the main motivation for the trip. Just can't get over how big those trees are!
In Humbolt State Park. Big trees!
Surprisingly there were no complaints about suspension, which basically confirms that Xidas are magic. One change that was definitely felt was the increase in power. I could pass people! This was especially helpful on Highway 3, going from Hwy 36 to 299 (and into Redding). This little stretch of road is Miata heaven, and I could have driven back and forth all day. Unfortunately my wife got a little car sick, so no more fun for me.
Now that I've changed the oil and filter, it's going to basically be maintenance items only for a couple years. The only "modification" I have left to do is to put a real oil pressure sender and guage in from an earlier car. Have all the parts, just haven't gotten around to it yet.
Wow, those trees are enormous! Seeing one in person is definitely on my bucket list. Car looks great, too and I'm sure it is a blast even without allofit power.
Just out of curiosity, did you ever sit for the CPA exam?
Wow, those trees are enormous! Seeing one in person is definitely on my bucket list. Car looks great, too and I'm sure it is a blast even without allofit power.
Just out of curiosity, did you ever sit for the CPA exam?
So far I've only sat for one of the four sections. Results are still a couple weeks out. Taking the next one at the end of August. Depending on how I do on the first test I may try to take the last two sections within the same testing window just to get it over with.
So my AEM EUGO is stuck reading 14.7, which means a dead sensor. I may have physically damaged it over a rough bit of road (there were sparks!). Because the AEM can't be free-air calibrated do I need to get the AEM specific replacement sensor, or can I just get the normal Bosch LSU 4.9? Price difference is a little over $30, which isn't a lot in the grand scheme of things, but I'd rather spend that $30 on a dinner if I can.
06-21-2017 | 06:26 PM
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