The Background:

I built a 90 CSP Car, pretty competitive in the Detroit / Ohio region SCCA SOLO a few years back. A few states/jobs later I sold my car in the mix and picked up a 97 with a FMII-GT2560 in summer 17', in hindsight I should have been weary on buying a turbo yata with all supporting mods but a coolant reroute. Very shortly after purchase the reroute went in, but it didn't make it many miles. After I pulled the head piston #4 was confirmed melted .






The Rebuild:
Timeline would to have this ready to hurt feelings in the spring.
Power Goals would be a stone cold reliable 300whp.

Engine Knowns:
Supertech 83.5mm 8:6,Wiesco XX rings, Calico Coated Skirts & Ceramic Top
Manley H Beams
ARP Main & Head studs
ACL Race Bearings, Calico coated
Supermiata Built CNC Head //+1 Inco, Dual Springs (Thanks Shibby! A+ Seller)
Skunk 2 Intake Manifold (Fab9 Sponsor me tho)
FMII Log / outlet/ downpipe - SELLING THIS, check the F/S
Mishimoto Rad
M-tuned Reroute
Mishimoto Intercooler - may need to upgrade this anybody selling one?
Toyota COP
Happy Mea Clutchl w/ Fidanza - both look kinda beat.
MSPNP2
Derlin motor mounts but this may change.
Ground / Micro Polished Crank
ATI Super Damp

Engine Unknowns:
Fuel rail - TBD
Injectors - TBD
Turbo TBD I sold my GT2560, but the GT3071 may be the upgrade. BW EFR 6758?

Suspension:
Energy Suspension Bushings - Black
15x10 6UL 225/R888
Beat KYB/GC Combo on there now, naw.

 

why do you want to use a turbo from 1980?

 

That is the debacle, doubtful anybody wants to trade my FM Loggy stuffs for Tubi Stuffs

 

you could at least go GTX series or the new G series, with turbines designed within the last 10 year, not recycled from 1970.

 

Saturday Update:

Dropped the crank off for dynamic balancing, Pistons and bearing are off at Calico. Blocks out of the machine shop and ready for some more cleaning, paint, oil squirters, and the arp hardware.

Still need to order some gaskets in the near term if I would like to get the short block assembly done in December.


Was looking at my ATI Super Damper, it seemed that the trigger wheel could be giggled slightly clocking the location of the trigger. Im curious if anyone else has found this to be true. The Trigger wheel and damper, although concentric, does have some play between the diameters of damper to trigger wheel, and trigger wheel bolt hole to bolt. Wondering if this may have somehow aided to the failure.

 

Pistons are on the way back, pretty much nothing preventing me from throwing together the long block ~2weeks out. However, I didn't mark them for the little dimple which I believe needs to face towards the front of the block. Hopefully I will still be able to see it with the ceramic coating on. I didn't zero balance the pistons yet but that seems to be the last step preventing me from doindadirty.

 

Aren't the oil squirters typically deleted when moving to forged pistons?

 

IMHO there are only pros to having oil squirters in a high boost turbo application, I've already reinstalled mine.

 

IMHO there are only pros to having oil squirters in a high boost turbo application, I've already reinstalled mine.

 

Yeah, I don't really know enough to comment but I hope someone else chimes in. I've always read about folks deleting them!

 

Some Pistons have contact issues with the oil squirters. Some Pistons have problems with the oil squirters putting oil back into the oil control rings. It would depend on the design of the particular pistons you were planning to use.

 

Thanks for posting, just meandered through this thread, looks like the Wiesco Pistons / Oil Squirter combo is a no go.
Second guessing myself on keeping mine installed with the supertechs but I'm a data guy, going to do some more research hopefully some other turbocats drop in.

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...cussion-82895/

 

I have supertech and oil squirters in my built motor, but my motor was put together prior to that discussion thread. Nothing weird going on that I can tell at present but that doesn't really mean anything.

 

Thanks for posting this - something to consider in the 1 day I have between now and when I seal the oil pan. :s

Nice to see your build thread get started - good luck with the rest of the build!

 

It's a pretty easy check, bolt everything together and bar the engine over, look for interference. My '99 block with oil squirters, did not like the the Wiescos, so I blocked mine off. The interference was very obvious when I rotated the engine over, no pics unfortunately.

 

I'm glad I asked!
​​​​​​I just thought that you always delete them with forged Pistons because of the difference in thermal expansion. Didn't know it was essentially just about physical interference.

 

Why would you delete them because of thermal expansion?
My pistons were modified to clear the squirters but I chose to delete them. They are not necessary with the 2618 alloy, so I get more oil pump capacity for everywhere else. I think most folks agree that they are helpful with the supertech alloy and OEM alloys.

 

My thinking was that they either interfere physically or they're a hindrance to the pistons/rings getting to the right temperature relative to everything else. I.e. the pistons are a different material than stock and don't behave the same so adding oil there as cooling or to add more oil to the bores might have been counterproductive.

Thanks for the bolded above... I might be using that info soon.

 

Well, not much progress this weekend outside of cleaning the oil pan better than my dishes.
Hopeful the pistons get here tomorrow and so I can share some calico wins and document some of the zero balancing.

 

Another Buell guy! Subscribed. I have a 09 Ulysses and a 04 12R.