So I just removed one turn of tension from the internal wastegate actuator and with the porting from above I am not seeing much creep. Here is a video of the boost!

 

So quick update: Scored some awesome tein coilovers from shuiend, and have been doing some more tuning to get those rich areas out of my tune. Mk turbo working well I just found an oil leak in my car which is indicating it's the rear crank seal. That's what I get for neglecting her rear... The one seal I didn't replace when I did the clutch upgrade. Lol

 

Haven't done much for a while, but was able to modify the crappy eBay catch can and get it installed. The oil pressure dropped down back to where it was stock. Needle moves back and forth a bit but that might be because of rear oil seal leak. Transmission getting pulled today to fix rear main seal and then I'll put it back together and get back to tuning.

 

Examine closely the rear seal, the "half-moon" seal on the oil pan can develop a leak in higher mileage as well. It will look very much like an RMS leak. I had oil coming from the bell housing weep hole so I pulled the trans on my '99 to do a RMS/clutch/pilot/throw-out. Few hundred miles after all that work, I still had an oil leak from the weep hole.

Just figured I would give you a "heads up". In hindsight I should have investigated further, but I was in a hurry.

 

That is very plausible as the flourescent dye was emerging from the boot off the bell housing that the slave cylinder goes to. I'll take a picture of the rear main seal. It has a small collection of oil at the bottom of it it which leads me to believe that is what was leaking. I tilted my trans too far when taking it out and all of the oil leaked out the rear oil seal. Is that supposed to happen??

 

You did drain the oil before pulling the trans right? In general there will be a little oil left and it can leak out the rear seal. Nothing to be overly worried about with that.

 

I'm pretty sure I drained the whole thing thru the rear oil seal. Lol. Biggest. Puddle. Ever. I'm guessing I don't need to change that seal tho....

 

You shouldn't need to change it. But yeah always drain the oil before you drop the trans, unless you have a spare drive shaft to plug in. Just to much of a chance dumping all the oil out the back moving the trans around.

 

Yeah that made a mess...lol. I drained it last time.

 

With the help of some friends I think we got the transmission in. Will be buttoning up tonight and see how she does on the road tomorrow! Hopefully will be able to start tuning tomorrow!!

 

She is back in action!!





949 Racing

 

With my luck now it's difficult getting into gears. I looked for leaks and nothing was found. Bled the slave cylinder and no air was in it.

 

You did use an API GL-4 rated oil right? GL-5 can mess up your transmission. Amsoil and redline have nice products, I think I will try the Ford motorcraft stuff next time.
I'm sure someone will chime in with a more experienced opinion.

 

Yes I ended up using valvoline this time which is a gl5.

Thanks for your input!

 

You need to drain the GL5 oil out ASAP, it will mess up your transmission.
I bought my first cherry NA for $1900, like 10 years ago because the shop that did the clutch used GL5. The guy said they forgot to change the throwout bearing, and it did sort of sound like that but not quite the same. I had use redline mtl and change it three times for the noise to go away, took like a year to shut up.
GL5 is OK for the rear end but definitely not the transmission. I know that I am repeating myself but, you must use a GL-4 rated oil in the transmission.

 

I'll do that! No other variable changed either on this rear main seal job besides the transmission fluid. How about for the turret? GL5 good?

 

It is only the 6 speed that requires GL-4 oil. The 5 speed will work with both GL-4 and GL-5. that being said, I think I have 2 bottles of amsoil sitting on the shelf at my house. I will shoot you a text in a bit about them.

 

You sure about that Lars? My old NA was a 5 speed 92, I have also seen similar problems on mid 90's Nissan trucks IIRC. When I researched it long ago, I came to the conclusion that all 90's and later manual transmissions would be damaged by GL5 oils. Something in GL5 corrodes yellow metals used in modern synchros, again IIRC.

 

I must admit my old rx7 used regular GL5 gear oil in the tranny.

 

Good points from both. I will do the brake pedal test today and see if that is indicative of a slave or master cylinder failure. There has always been a minor leak on the Brake master cylinder,but it has never resulted in the gears being this difficult to get into.