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Did you do the coolant reroute? Better radiator should probably be in there too.
I discovered too late that I should had used the NB1 head gasket to do the reroute, beacuse the VVT head gasket has "calibrated" and closed water holes, to guarantee water flow to cyl.4.
That's not true?
I've got a 50mm aluminium radiator and I left the AC fan connected as secondary fan (but I removed the other AC components on the engine bay) and I still have to put a water temp gauge.
I hope this setup will be ok, with some ducting as adviced from @DNMakinson that I still have to think about. If it won't be enough, I'll have to change the headgasket and plumb a reroute.
I also have to test my oil cooler, it's too small, it's a Setrab ProLine 16row x 115mm matrix.
Hello all,
I was disappeared trying to finish the car without free time from job..
But now, I had a serious car accident two days ago, not with the Miata fortunately, so I have more free time to feed my thread.
I'm at bed waiting two months to have my two vertebrae getting fixed.
By the way, I let the car at the dyno tuner last Saturday to have it tuned at 9 psi, but he dyno tuned it at 12psi sayings that it was boost creep and not the EBC that he wasn't able to deactivate... and today I have received the dyno results:
This modified IHI VF35 turned out as a nice choice for this engine. It's very nice to drive, spooly and powerful.
But the video from the dyno test can demonstrate that the car is burning oil now: Dyno test
This Saturday I'll have the car back from the tuner, and one friend would do the work for me. I want to test if it has lost compression and if the spark have oil dirt.
That can be oil burnt from the turbocharger?
I hope that the Victor Reinz valve stems seals suck, and I have to change it with OEMs
I'm not scared about broken engine, I took this engine for 250$ but I want to track it once! And now I need to forge the engine because I don't want to scale down the boost :(
I discovered too late that I should had used the NB1 head gasket to do the reroute, beacuse the VVT head gasket has "calibrated" and closed water holes, to guarantee water flow to cyl.4.
That's not true?
The VVT gasket is better than the NB1 gasket, because of the changes.
But, it's still not as good as a decent reroute.
Mazda made a decision based on cost, and servicing.
Having the thermostat at the front of the engine meant that it was much easier to replace it during servicing.
It also meant much easier coolant hose routing, so probably saved some assembly time/money there too.
And yeah, later on it was a lot cheaper to just change a head gasket slightly, than to redesign the cooling system.
That's a fast refresh of tgis thread.
Some random pictures:
11 blades custom impeller (already fitted on this used IHI VF35) Fetish Not a garage queen engine bay (remember that's a 1.6 engine harness on a VVT engine, with flying wires added) but I will clean it one day. Last night in the barn where she is born Full 3" setup from Kraken, with a straight through resonator ad Magnaflow muffler. Sleeper sound when idling and cruising, deep and pleasant sound when full throttle but you can talk with your passenger in the vehicle. I will do some video when I will get back on the driver seat.
Yes, regardless of which head gasket you use, the reroute is recommended.
I thought they where incompatible together, creating an oppodite effect. And I had to change the gasket with an nb1 first, to install the reroute.
The gasket does not affect the reroute effectiveness?
According to This and the next 2 postsmy statement stands. The ideal is a pre-NB2 head gasket with re-route, but even with a NB2 gasket, the re-route should be done.
Is that HP/to at the crank or measured at wheels? I'm curious because I don't remember forged internals being mentioned. The 1.8 and the 1.6 share the same rods (in the US at least) and they are only good up to 200ft/lbs or so... some people say more some less. Your last dyno showed 245ft/lbs, which is really pushing it on stock rods no matter where you draw the line.
Awesome numbers though, really shows what having a full 3" exhaust can do. I hope you get some time to enjoy it!
According to This and the next 2 postsmy statement stands. The ideal is a pre-NB2 head gasket with re-route, but even with a NB2 gasket, the re-route should be done.
Is that HP/to at the crank or measured at wheels? I'm curious because I don't remember forged internals being mentioned. The 1.8 and the 1.6 share the same rods (in the US at least) and they are only good up to 200ft/lbs or so... some people say more some less. Your last dyno showed 245ft/lbs, which is really pushing it on stock rods no matter where you draw the line.
Awesome numbers though, really shows what having a full 3" exhaust can do. I hope you get some time to enjoy it!
That data are intended at the crank, I'm surprised too! It's all stock in the engine, and that's a VVT engine so it has a CR of 10:1.
But I'm sure I'm at the limit of the engine and I don't know if it will support some serious track time.
Someone have seen the video of the dyno run?
It's suffering from somewhere... Poor engine :(
I link another video where I'm playing with the boost gauge, I can suppose that the flowish exhaust is helping spool and performance:
3" definitely helps, no doubt about it. I dont track my car and it still isn't boosted... but I'd try and run a few pounds less boost on the track. It's worth sacrificing ~15hp to help ensure reliability. More power is fun but breaking down is more than enough to cancel that out.
3" definitely helps, no doubt about it. I dont track my car and it still isn't boosted... but I'd try and run a few pounds less boost on the track. It's worth sacrificing ~15hp to help ensure reliability. More power is fun but breaking down is more than enough to cancel that out.
I'll disable the EBC and I'll go back to the dyno to tune it at 0,6bar.
But I will have the possibility to have this power option for fun, but I'm scared about that peak torque.
When I will be able to work on the car I will discover if it's burning oil from the turbocharger or if the engine has lost compression and it is burning it from piston rings
Looking good!
I´m also going for the VF-35, on my NB1 1.8.
But it´ll be some time before i get around to start mounting the parts If people is interested, I would make a build thread