Lazarus:making something out of nothing
#149
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 771
Total Cats: 39
From: Beaverton, OR
Both mounts are loose yes. Here's some more
Evo 8 intercooler mocked up as well as some ic piping. The BOV will go on the short slightly curved pipe that will go between the cold side of the IC and the throttle body. The 1.6 is ready to come out, just waiting on curly to bring over the engine hoist and the msm motor.
Also installed the MSM brake booster line and throttle cable.
And yes, the bay will get a thorough cleaning when the motor is out.
And the slave is out josh.
Evo 8 intercooler mocked up as well as some ic piping. The BOV will go on the short slightly curved pipe that will go between the cold side of the IC and the throttle body. The 1.6 is ready to come out, just waiting on curly to bring over the engine hoist and the msm motor.
Also installed the MSM brake booster line and throttle cable.
And yes, the bay will get a thorough cleaning when the motor is out.
And the slave is out josh.
#150
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 771
Total Cats: 39
From: Beaverton, OR
Some rx8 440cc injectors thanks to rock auto and a 94-97 fpr from Static 9 Garage, kudos to them for an excellent price and fast shipping. This combined with a 99-00 fuel rail should work nicely for Lazs new fuel system.
#151
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 771
Total Cats: 39
From: Beaverton, OR
As mentioned before, motor has an 01+ gasket! thus reroute will not happen yet.
Some updates on the motor, we resealed the bottom and did a new rear main seal. Also adapted a 1.6 alternator to work properly with the 1.8 belts. This involved using a Garagestar 1.8 pulley, shaving the cage of the 1.6 alternator for clearance and removing the spacer that sits below the OEM 1.6 pulley. Lines up perfectly now and removed the hassle of control the NB alternator.
I also stopped by English Racing today and dug throuh their used parts shed and left with enough OEM and aftermarket evo intercooler piping to build Laz's IC piping.
Some updates on the motor, we resealed the bottom and did a new rear main seal. Also adapted a 1.6 alternator to work properly with the 1.8 belts. This involved using a Garagestar 1.8 pulley, shaving the cage of the 1.6 alternator for clearance and removing the spacer that sits below the OEM 1.6 pulley. Lines up perfectly now and removed the hassle of control the NB alternator.
I also stopped by English Racing today and dug throuh their used parts shed and left with enough OEM and aftermarket evo intercooler piping to build Laz's IC piping.
#152
I'll let Martin post some pictures, but all went well with the swap today. We managed to pull the 1.6, scrub the MSM subframe and swap it in, drop in the MSM motor, fab intercooler pipes, plumb the fuel rail, rewire and relocate the wideband, extend the CAS wiring, and wire up the '01+ COPs. Started on the first try even!
Our one issue: no tach.
I tried the 1k resistor between IG- and B+, still no luck, these are the instructions I followed:
Any ideas?
Our one issue: no tach.
I tried the 1k resistor between IG- and B+, still no luck, these are the instructions I followed:
Remove Mazda igniter & plug. We’ll be re-appropriating its wires & discarding the igniter in the steps below.
Clip the Mazda brown/yellow wire & the Mazda white wire. Crimp them together.
Clip the Mazda brown wire and the Mazda red wire. Crimp them together.
Clip the Mazda black/white wire & the Mazda yellow/blue wire. Crimp them together.
Clip the Mazda black wire & run it to the black wires at the 01-05 coil pigtails. This is ground.
Secure the leftover Mazda blue wire to prevent a short- it is 12V.
Now cut the 3-wire plug from the coil harness. Take the blue wire & run it to the black/white wires at the 01-05
coil pigtails. This is 12v.
The white wire runs the coil for cylinders 1&4. Connect it to the brown/white wire at the 1&4 01-05 coil.
The red wire runs cylinders 2&3. Connect it to the black/yellow wire at the 2&3 01-05 coil.
Clip the Mazda brown/yellow wire & the Mazda white wire. Crimp them together.
Clip the Mazda brown wire and the Mazda red wire. Crimp them together.
Clip the Mazda black/white wire & the Mazda yellow/blue wire. Crimp them together.
Clip the Mazda black wire & run it to the black wires at the 01-05 coil pigtails. This is ground.
Secure the leftover Mazda blue wire to prevent a short- it is 12V.
Now cut the 3-wire plug from the coil harness. Take the blue wire & run it to the black/white wires at the 01-05
coil pigtails. This is 12v.
The white wire runs the coil for cylinders 1&4. Connect it to the brown/white wire at the 1&4 01-05 coil.
The red wire runs cylinders 2&3. Connect it to the black/yellow wire at the 2&3 01-05 coil.
#159
As if yesterday wasn't enough, Martin came over today to clean up the intercooler piping, fix a few boost leaks, and install his headlights. These are the projectors out of the broken MSM lights I parted out, shoved into some fog light lenses. They work surprisingly well!
Launch control might be set a little too high. It's at 3500rpm for this video.
And Martin leaves for today, Laz sounds A-mazing.
Launch control might be set a little too high. It's at 3500rpm for this video.
And Martin leaves for today, Laz sounds A-mazing.