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Maybe 150 miles. Familiar with the materials. We are a Supertech and Wiseco dealer. Having built many engines with both over the years we always find better oil control with the Wisecos even though their relatively loose fit when cold should theoretically increase oil consumption. But if the 2.3 Wisecos aren't the right geometry, we'll use ST's with Wiseco XX rings.
But yeah, things don't add up with the failure. We'll know soon and share findings.
Anyway to differentiate NC1 and NC2 longblocks externally?
Guessing it got some blowby, which led to det, which led to snapped rod. Or maybe not. Off to Keegan and we'll see what he says.
There is something you don't see very often when looking at an engine.. the other side of the shop.
Anyway to differentiate NC1 and NC2 longblocks externally?
Guessing it got some blowby, which led to det, which led to snapped rod. Or maybe not. Off to Keegan and we'll see what he says.
That does appear to be the correct forged crank. What was the P/N of the long block you purchased?
Also the right P/N. Dead end assuming you got what you paid for.
Can you put the original engine back in the car? Honestly the late ones are very hardy and I wouldn't hesitate to bolt the Brotrex to the original one.
Also the right P/N. Dead end assuming you got what you paid for.
Can you put the original engine back in the car? Honestly the late ones are very hardy and I wouldn't hesitate to bolt the Brotrex to the original one.
Nope. We damaged the original head trying to put the cams in. Bottom end is fine. Plan was to just use the original 100k motor as it very healthy. But I want to put it to bed so we're putting forged rods and pistons in.
We set this project aside for a bit. Built a new 2.0 with stage 2 BC Cams and valve springs, plus forged rods. Dyno'd today on 91 then E85. Hooker header, high flow cat and 2.5" exhaust, no other engine mods. The BBR kit uses Grams 550cc injectors which are Bosch. Not enough injector to pull the 40mm restrictor out so we left it in and made around 295whp on a Dynapack. This particular dyno reads a bit high so we'll have to put it on a Dynojet to get a more relevant number. Orders 1050X ID's for it so we can pull the restrictor. We did a few pulls on 91 w/o restrictor and it made a bit over 330whp. We opted for less power on E85 as a safer config. With the 1050's, no restrictor and bit more tuning it should hit 350 or so on this dyno, which equates to something like 325whp Dynojet.
The BBR map gave pretty good drivability, but not perfect. Unfortunately it's locked and not visible to us. So we had to build a map from scratch mixing Alpha-N (MAF) at low rpm part throttle and speed-density under boost. Took many hours. It has more power down low on this map, but drivability is even worse than the BBR map. I'm spoiled by all my old NA/NB tunes and a few other builds we have had with perfect manners and razor sharp response. Hopefully we can get to that point with Kaiko.
In any case, its quick now. Revs wacky fast and pulls really hard on top. Power doesn't drop off and it's clear it would keep climbing to maybe past 8,000rpm. We have the ign cut set at 7600 for now. Deviate, our 95 R package with smaller C30-74 made 300whp and better midrange torque. I want to play around with cam timing and possibly pulleys to get closer to the fatter powerband deviate had.
I'll post a dyno once we have the tune a bit more sorted. It'll be at Miata Reunion giving rides hopefully.
Dunno how I missed this. Holy hell so excited to see this thing rip again. Those numbers are rad. Car's gonna be fast I reckon.
Locked tunes are probably one of the most annoying things about dealing with the NC platform, although I guess that's the norm now for any platform not running a standalone. Also wait times. I've been waiting for my naturally-aspirated 2.0 ECUtek tune from Fab9 for like three weeks now. Sounds like that wait time isn't too different from most other tuners either.
Did you guys do valve springs just to increase the redline safely? The BC stage 2 cams say that stiffer springs aren't required. I was thinking of going with those and no springs just to keep things simpler if I blow a motor on my car once it's boosted. Gonna keep the redline around 7k max. Probably a dumb question, but figured it's worth confirming.
Valve spring upgrade to keep from blowing valves open under boost and some additional over rev protection. Possibly not needed but as long as we were in there..
Some prototype 18x10 forged 6UL's, 375whp worth of Rotrex, some downforce here and there. Proto 12.88x1.1 Boxmount BBK with Wilwood Superlite 7420 pads.
We should have the forged aluminum wheels dialed in and start taking orders early 2025.
10-29-2023 | 05:16 PM
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Black if possible, please and thank you!
